Overheating Trailer Brake/Wheel

[samols]

I have a 1996 Magic Tilt Aluminum single axle trailer with surge brakes (10" drum) used to tow a 18' Sea Ray w/180HP I/O. Estimate weight to be less than 3000lbs plus trailer, all within specs. New tires (Carlisle 215/75-14), brakes (shoes, hardware, backing plate and wheel cylinders) and wheel bearings and of course the system was throughly bleed. When I bought the boat this year and towed it home, the brakes were inoperative but the right wheel got very hot on the drive. The tires had dry rot, one wheel cylinder was seized so I did the above work. Now the right wheel still overheats and it appears to be caused by the brake. On two occasions after the trailer sat still overnight the same wheel would not turn initially until forced. The rig seems to tow well, evenly with no other problems. <br />What could cause only one brake to possibly apply or drag and cause this overheating, or what else would cause this single wheel to overheat other than the brakes or bearings?

 

[MIKE F]

Re: Overheating Trailer Brake/Wheel

Have the bearings been tightened down too much?<br />Have the brakes been adjusted/backed off properly?<br />Are the tires properly inflated?

 

[JB]

Re: Overheating Trailer Brake/Wheel

Yes. What Mike said, Samols.<br /><br />If it isn't one of those it is a warped drum, bent spindle or evil spirits.<br /><br />Good luck.

 

[samols]

Re: Overheating Trailer Brake/Wheel

Thanks, but yes, yes & yes.<br />Tires are at 50psi, bearings are finger tight (after lightly seating with wrench), brakes were backed off 10 clicks from unable to turn by hand and all is the same on both sides but overheating is only on right side. Even when overheating the wheel turns freely if lifted off the pavement.<br />Today I was able to confirm that the overheating is originating from the brake, not the bearing/hub assembly. Something must be causing this brake to either lightly apply or be very slow to release after application.<br />Could this be due to a bent spindle or warped drum? How could I determine if my spindle is bent? Visually it appeared fine. The drum seemed to offer equal drag when the brakes are tightened and rotated during the adjustment process.<br />My brake lines are plastic, has anyone ever had such a line collapse internally and inhibit release of hydraulic pressure?<br />I'm at my wits end.

 

[Boatist]

Re: Overheating Trailer Brake/Wheel

Samols<br />With surge breaks I do not belive problem can be from breaks being applied while towing forward, unless going down a steep hill. I belive you may have the brake adjusted too tight. When I had drum brakes I adjusted mine up until very tight then backed off until very little drag then 15 notches. That is probably still less than two turns of the adjustment bolt. I had my son either turn the wheel or applied the brake manualy to test and it worked great. Other things to check. Make sure the return springs are applied right and that the wheel cylinder is not froze up. Make sure nothing is blocking cooling air from getting to the brake drum. If it still get hotter than the other side I would remove all grease and change the bearing and race. Keep the old ones for a emergency spare. Make sure both sides work maybe the cool side is not working. My drums and hub ran warm to touch but not hot, then again I take it pretty easy when towing. Good luck and please report back what you find.