Outdrive will not go back into transom

[DuKn]

2000 Bayliner Capri 1850 4.3l mercruiser alpha one gen 2

Pulled my drive to inspect the bellows and u joints, now when putting it back on it gets stuck about an inch away from closing up, shift linkage is in forward and lined up correctly as well, tapped it with a rubber mallet too and still nothing.

 

[alldodge]

Might be the O ring on the drive shaft, did you put any grease on it?

 

[DuKn]

I did, took it back out and wiped the two back ones with my finger once and still the same, think i should take it out again and completely clean the grease off?

 

[alldodge]

Does the alignment bar move in/out easy?

 

[JASinIL2006]

This happens a lot. Sometimes turning the propeller to turn the drive shaft will help. Other times, I've gone away and tried again the next day and it slid right in.

Best things to check are (a) the o-rings (light oil or very light grease is sufficient) and (b) the alignment of the coupler. Double-checking to make sure the shift shaft and the shoe are lined up isn't a bad idea, either.

 

[DuKn]

cleaned grease off and still not budging, i don’t have an alignment bar, was hoping so solve it with out one truthfully

 

[DuKn]

turning the propeller helped initially but still won’t budge, he’s a few pictures of my shift

 

[alldodge]

I would bet a six pack your out of alignment

 

[DuKn]

yeah that sounds like my luck, does pulling the drive make it get out of alignment that much?

 

[bajaman123]

out of the 34 times I have done this, it went back in exactly ONCE! And yes, I too have just walked away and went back out the next day and it slid right in. I have found that if you turn the driveshaft just a LITTLE bit, one way or the other, it usually allows it to slide right in. Just turning the prop usually does nothing as it isn't engaged with the shaft.

 

[alldodge]

yeah that sounds like my luck, does pulling the drive make it get out of alignment that much?

No, but it could have been out for a while and pulling just made it showed it's head. Could also be that pulling it moved the gimbal enough to make it not align. Could be its fine just needs the bearing moved a tad

A boat can go its entire life and never be touched, but if it gets out and not fixed, next thing your pulling motor to replace coupler

 

[airshot]

The alignment tool also aligns the bearing to make the shaft go in easier. In all my years of boating (60yrs plus)cutting corners never worked for me....

 

[DuKn]

out of the 34 times I have done this, it went back in exactly ONCE! And yes, I too have just walked away and went back out the next day and it slid right in. I have found that if you turn the driveshaft just a LITTLE bit, one way or the other, it usually allows it to slide right in. Just turning the prop usually does nothing as it isn't engaged with the shaft.

I tried this many MANY times and still nothing, i ordered the alignment tool just to be sure, it’s something that needs to be done one way or the other so might as well check it and be done with it. Thanks for the advice everyone, I’ll get back with everyone when it arrives.

 

[DuKn]

No, but it could have been out for a while and pulling just made it showed it's head. Could also be that pulling it moved the gimbal enough to make it not align. Could be its fine just needs the bearing moved a tad

A boat can go its entire life and never be touched, but if it gets out and not fixed, next thing your pulling motor to replace coupler

This might be the problem. I had problems pulling the drive in the first place where I couldn’t put it by hand, seen on a forum somewhere where they used a 2x4 and the trim rams to take it out and it popped right out so it very well could’ve been the alignment.

 

[crazy charlie]

What I am seeing in your 1st pic is pretty common.Happens to me most times I install and turning the prop usually gets it much closer.Dont expect the drive to go all the way on without tightening the nuts.Make sure the drive is not popping out of fwd during install.What are you doing to make certain the drive stays in fwd?? I use a bungee.When turning the prop, you are turning the drive shaft for tweaking the splines so its not gonna be simple to turn.I turn and hit drive with my shoulder at the same time .I noticed that your bottom bolts are not into the drive as far as the top bolts so it is not going in perfectly straight. You might want to pull the bottom of the bell housing out a little.I usually put a large screwdriver across the bottom for leverage as it moves the bottom of the bell housing out some.I also thing you need to grease the shift bar/shoe and the track that it is sliding into.This is a point that can stop the drive from advancing ,You can take a peek at this from underneath when you hit the snag point.I would pull the drive off and make sure every gasket and ring is in the right place.Rotate the prop until the ujoints are the opposite way of when you pulled the drive .This is a point that sometimes hangs up..Also a good amount of grease on the splines and the tiptop of the splines will also help. I dont think you have a motor alignment issue.if you have not changed anything engine wise from when you pulled the drive alignment shouldn't be the cause.Charlie

 

[JASinIL2006]

I've never had to tighten down the nuts to get the drive to go on all the way. I don't think you should have to crank down on the drive to get it to seat fully. It should slide right up to the bellhousing.

 

[Lou C]

Pulling the drive will not make it go out of alignment, but if there is a problem with the engine mount bushings, or transom, it can gradually sag out of alignment.
Yours looks pretty close what it might be is you have to rotate the prop shaft to get the splines on the driveshaft to line up with the splines in the coupler. Just slightly like maybe an 1/8" is all it takes.
I would not put grease on the O-rings on the driveshaft, because the grease can get under the o-ring and into the groove in the shaft and make it harder for it to slide on. In my OMC shop manual it says to use grease only on the driveshaft splines but motor oil on the o-rings, and clean out the grooves in the shaft before installing the o-rings.

 

[DuKn]

To make sure i’m keeping it in forward gear im always hold pressure on the prop while giving the drive a good push, doing so lets it advance a 1/4 inch then it stops and won’t budge. I’ve greased the splines before installing and i did grease the o rings but after reading comments i did wipe the grease off good but just the o rings, i have not cleaned the groves for the o rings (yet). I will grease shift bar and track as well. Also i’ve i will try the suggestion with the bell house.

Along with the alignment bar, i’ve bought a new sierra gasket kit (part# 94996Q2) just in case the gasket and o rings i bought aren’t a perfect fit. Next off day i have i will give it a good go by then the alignment bar and new gasket kit should be in. thanks for the suggestions.

 

[crazy charlie]

I am guessing that your shift lever/shoe is not entering the guide on the bottom of the bell housing cleanly.Possibly the lever/shoe is not perfectly straight when in fwd .This will stop the drive from advancing the exact amount you are experiencing.Charlie

 

[DuKn]

I am guessing that your shift lever/shoe is not entering the guide on the bottom of the bell housing cleanly.Possibly the lever/shoe is not perfectly straight when in fwd .This will stop the drive from advancing the exact amount you are experiencing.Charlie

I have my shifter all the way in forward and when i go to install the drive i hold pressure on the propeller (counter clockwise) making sure it doesn’t pop out of forward while doing that i give it a good push.