Outboard repaired but now I have to use the throttle lever to start it . . .

Expidia

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This is the back drop story on my recent repair:
Just got my 40 HP 2007 4 stroke 3 cylinder outboard back from the shop. Had an incident last week where the outboard over heated, but shut down automatically. But a few components got real hot and a pinhole leak in the fuelline caused some flames when I picked up the cover. I put cover down and grabbed the fire extingquisher but the flames were already out when I picked it up again to foam it. I foamed it down anyway since there were 4 of us onboard and it stopped on the river just outside the channel. It melted parts of the wire harness. They replaced the harness and other parts and said they test drove it on the water and it runs great.

Newest issue: So I got a chance to test it out myself last Sat. It was hard starting the way I used to start it. I've owned this 2007 40 hp EFI since I bought it new. I've never had to choke it (push key in) or ever touch the throttle lever that sits above above the key/choke and it started and went into idle.
Now the starter spins for 2 secs and then stops without the emotor starting. I tried 10 times even with the choke and nothing. Then I picked up the throttle lever and still nothing. Then I got mad at it and pushed the level up even more. It actually moves to almost 90 degrees from the down position (I never knew this because I've never had to touch this lever to start it). With the level all the way up it started and since its under no load the motor screams very fast until I quickly pull the level back again and the motor is then idling.

My fear is starting it like this ill throw a rod. I did have them tighten up the side to side play in the actual forward reverse shifter (which also automatically controls the throttle speed). I'm wondering if they changed some adjustment inside the box which changed the position of that starting level that I never had to use?

I took it back to them yesterday and he checked a plug which was burning OK (a nice light brown). I asked him if there was an adjustment to make it run a little richer like on a carburetor (but there is no carb on an EFI). He said there are no adjustments and the computer does everything.

I think I'll make a vid of my starting process to show my starting issue (can we add vids here?) on sat when I take it out on the river again.
I can always add that vid onto Youtube I guess.

For now I added 1/2 a bottle of fuel injector cleaner and I'll add the 2nd 1/2 to my next fill up. And switch to non ethanol high octane fuel.

Aside from that I'm stumped as to why after their repairs and new parts (see pic) it won't start like it has instantly for 11 seasons with no choke or throttle level used.

Now that I mentioned them adjusting the shifting level I'm leaning more towards they also changed the linkage tension on that throttle level . . .
 

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alldodge

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Not an OB guy, but IMO, they replaced the burnt stuff but did not fix the issues caused by the burnt stuff

All EFI/MPI motors use a Idle Air Control (IAC) to adjust the air going into the motor during starting and idle. Having to give it a lot of throttle is telling me the fuel is to high for the air going in.

Increasing the throttle that much also can cause the injectors to stop firing all together (flood mode). So your injectors are flooding or there is not enough air going in

Once started, how does it idle?
 

Expidia

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Thanks for that response. Once it starts on the open water it runs fine. I'd say after owning it for 11 seasons and knowing its charcacteristics over those years it idles a little rough now. It idles more like a 2 cylinder outboard rather than its previous smoothness of it being a 3 cylinder. What bothers me is having to pull that throttle level to its max postion to start it and then having to quickly yank it back down so I don't damage anything with the high revs under no load.
Also, its only when its cold it does this. If I'm fishing with it and shut it off it starts again without having to go back and move the throttle lever to the max position again.
 

alldodge

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Wonder if the temp sensor is the issue. The dealer should be able to connect a scanner and see what the temp shows when cold. Also should be able to check other things when cold
 

Expidia

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Update: Used it over the past two days. I was ready to take a vid of it starting but the weird thing is yesterday it started with a turn of the key, same today with no choke or throttle lever used just like its been over the past 11 seasons.
But it still has issues. Between 0-5 mph it stumbles and misses but once its over 5-7 mph it runs fine. Full power until I throttle down again below 7 mph then it stumbles again.
So I left it off at the Mercury repair shop's lot again.
Just to describe the issue its like it has a broken spark plug wire (wires changed last week by me). Its like at trolling and slow speeds the break in a wire is causing the issues and at higher speed the current jumps the gap and it runs fine.
I'm not saying this is the issue, I'm just describing what my issue feels like.
This authorized repair shop should have a scanner which could indicate what component is bad and needs to be replaced.
As to the comment it may be starving for fuel . . . it feels to me the opposite. It feels like its loading up on too much fuel at trolling to 5 mph speed.

I did pull all 3 plugs before I left this AM for the river since he only checked 1. Checked gap to be 0.40. All 3 plugs looked good. All plug wires tight.
 

jimmbo

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Scanners can sometimes find a defective Part, however most of the the time they only detect Operational conditions that are outside the normal/specified Parameters. From there it is up to the Technician to decipher the info and figure out the reason
 

havoc_squad

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Scanners can sometimes find a defective Part, however most of the the time they only detect Operational conditions that are outside the normal/specified Parameters. From there it is up to the Technician to decipher the info and figure out the reason

To add to this, I believe a good resource for engine diagnosis thought process is ScannerDanner on YouTube.

You won't be an expert by watching videos, that takes training and experience gained whether self taught or a certified course.

He does a good job rightly criticizing sources of bad advice, and proves it based on evidence and established facts.

Don't be a parts changer and don't be assuming, diagnose first.
 

Expidia

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To add to this, I believe a good resource for engine diagnosis thought process is ScannerDanner on YouTube.

You won't be an expert by watching videos, that takes training and experience gained whether self taught or a certified course.

He does a good job rightly criticizing sources of bad advice, and proves it based on evidence and established facts.

Don't be a parts changer and don't be assuming, diagnose first.

The shop I go to is an authorized Mecury repair shop. I asked him to put a scanner on it. He said he would but usually the outboard throws off beeping signals if something was intrinsically wrong. He said my outboard is a 2007. The scanners are more atune to the later models.
At least it starts like it used to now for some reason without having to use the choke and the throttle level.

Only issue now is the roughness and skipping from idle up through 5-7 mph and then its full power and smooth again.

Hopefully, he will call me today (this sat and sun supposed to be great boating days) saying its all set and ready to picked up. If not, I'm going to suggest to him to bring it (or have someone swing by his shop) that he knows is a Mercury wiz! This shop just celebrated 25 years in business . . . but I'm sure they all know that certain Merc guy or friend in the area thats a wiz at diagnoising a hard to ferret out issue that he is stumped with.

My nephew I was told just bought a new Yamaha for his Whaler. His last one only lasted 34 years! These small outboards can last for many many years if the maintenance is kept up. I did have him price out a new Mercury 40hp ELPT which I paid $3500 new in 2007. Now the same outboard (and it really is the same with similar specs) goes for $7000 plus $800 new controls as Merc probably changed the pin setup so you need "new" controls.

I'll give him a few more days and then swing by, pick it up and bring it to another Merc shop. I'll contact the regional Merc rep first and find out who in my region might be the best one to bring it to.

Thanks for listening!
 
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