OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

[GregCC167Concept]

I have a 91 3.0 litre Cobra. I took it out for the first test run this year and it wouldn't go in gear. I took it to a mechanic and he found corrosion galore but has it back in shape. That's the good and the bad news. It wasn't shifting very well to start with and especially had problems coming out of gear at low speeds. I recently replaced the shift assist module and accompanying rocker switch but that didn't fix it. This guy is telling me those parts are good and aren't the problem. He says I have a bad "overstroke" switch and there is also a "paddle" or piece of metal that is missing that actually activates this switch - not sure what that piece is actually called. My question is: is anyone familiar with this switch and what the availability and cost might be on it and/or the identity of this paddle? Or a resource for early 90's OMC Cobra parts? I also found out my trim gauge sender is bad if anyone knows where I can get a good deal on one of those.

 

[sea wolf]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

if the paddle is missing you'll have to buy the whole switch. check with you're local omc dealer for the parts. u may also find many omc parts at napa.

 

[Dhadley]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Whats the motor idle at? If it idles too high it will be very difficult to shift out of gear. <br /><br />Yes NAPA does have some OMC replacement parts. Most likely made by Sierra - not genuine OMC parts.<br /><br />Good luck!

 

[GregCC167Concept]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

NAPA? As in the yellow and blue auto parts store? We do have one of those where I live but nothing else that would carry OMC parts. Sea Wolf I fully expect to have to buy the switch as it supposedly is bad - it's not just that the paddle is missing. Are you saying the switch would come with the paddle? I got the impression from my mechanic that it was 2 different parts. I found a parts place on the net that sells an OMC overstroke switch for 40 bucks but there are no specifics whatsoever about different models and/or years. And of course, without the identity and availability of this paddle thing, a new switch does no good.<br /><br />Dhadley I don't think it's an idle issue. This switch setup is supposed to stumble the motor when shifting to neutral to take the load off the gears so it will disengage easier. And when I shift to neutral, it is not stumbling...

 

[denniz]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

There are two switchs used to activate the shift interupt module(old style) The newer replacement module only uses one switch and has a time delay in. See if you can get the part # off your module to see which one you have. Problem is the instructions for this come with the new module, Im not sure if there in service manuals.

 

[BigBabyLou]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Greg, one (but not the only one) of good online resources for OMC parts is Doug Russell Marine. I ordered from them before and will again.<br /><br />The switches you are referring to can be found here. <br /><br />I don't fully understand what the guy is telling you. From what I read in your post it seems to me that he is associating the overstroke switch with the "paddle". But that "paddle" (most likely #37 in the link above) actuates the interrupter switch. Whereas the overstroke switch is actuated by cams on the shift bracket.<br /><br />DRM will also have a new trim sender. It's usually around $70. Part #86 on this page.<br /><br />Hope this helps.<br />Lou

 

[Lark40]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Just received my first order from Doug Russell.<br /><br />Got every big and little part (including a trim sender) I needed in two days. Will buy from them again. The on-line parts diagrams are very helpful.

 

[Boatin Bob]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Greg....you can check the ESA yourself very easily. With the engine running in neutral carefully lift up the ESA switch (the one with the arm on it that fits into the V notch) the engine should drop in RPM's, if it does then you have proven that the ESA module and switch are good. The overstroke switch just has a tiny button on it with a rubber boot around it. If it's activated then your ESA won't work, you can jumper this switch out temp to test, it's normally activated by the forward and reverse cams on the shift bracket to prevent the ESA from working while in gear. The newer ESA modules don't even use the overstroke switch anymore (theres no wires to plug in) because they put a timer circuit in the module so that the ESA wil only work for a couple of seconds when activated. ESA Switches This link will hopefully show you a picture of the 2 switches

 

[GregCC167Concept]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Bob the mechanic that looked at it said he bypassed the esa and found the overstroke to be bad. But he also mentions some piece of metal and described it as a paddle that actually engages the overstroke switch and said that paddle is missing. I can buy a new switch fairly easily I think but it's this paddle that is the mystery piece I need to find.

 

[GregCC167Concept]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Okay update. Picked the boat up tonight and saw with my own eyes this "paddle" I'm referring to - or actually the lack thereof. In looking at the diagram in BigBabyLou's reply it appears to be part number 11 but I'm not sure. It looks more like a fat pin that anything I'd call a paddle. But basically the function of it, as I understand it, is to depress the overstroke switch plunger while in operating forward range. It fits into an adjustable slot similar to what I see in the diagram. Any thoughts here?<br /><br />I bought a new ESA last year and someone here mentioned the new ESA's may not even need the overstroke switch because of a built in timer. Is there any way I can tell by the part number that I possibly have one of those ESA's? Then I could bypass the overstroke switch altogether. I do remember that the ESA part I bought was not the exact same part number as the one I pulled off.

 

[Boatin Bob]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

OK Greg...I see we have some confusion here, the "paddle" you are referring to on Lou's diagram Item 37 is actually what I call the V sahpe notch bracket, it normally sits in the middle with a v shape spring and it moves up or down depending if you go into forward or reverse. Anyway this "paddle" is what activates your ESA interupt switch (NOT THE OVERSTROKE SWITCH), if it's missing then for sure you will NEVER activate your ESA. If you look at the diagram again you will see item number 37 is the shift bracket (both shift cables attach to this) and item 34 is one of the cams that activates the overstroke switch. Your mechanic is calling the wrong switch the overstroke. I would try Doug Russell for that part, you probably need the spring item 40 as well plus other misc pieces.

 

[BigBabyLou]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Howdy,<br /><br />I guess I now understand what the mechanic means. I believe what Greg is missing is a CAM that actuates the overstroke switch, #34 in the diagram here.<br /><br />Greg, since you replaced the ESA module last year, it is right to question whether you need the overstroke switch at all. Maybe that's why it's missing!<br /><br />To test the ESA module for overstroke switch need, simply depress the interrupter switch while the engine is running and hold it down for a couple seconds. The engine RPM's will go down and if they never come back up, that means there is no timer in the ESA and it is not the new ESA. As a consequence, you will need the overstroke switch working. That requires TWO cams (#34) that have to be adjusted right so that your engine does not quit while in gear but still lets you shift. Somebody already posted a link to Stuart's Cobra shifter adjustment page here.<br /><br />Hope this helps.<br />Lou

 

[Boatin Bob]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

But you know Lou...if it's the actual cam missing then the only problem would be that the overstroke switch doesn't make. When going through a shift sequence the shift bracket moves and at the end of it's travel the cam should hit the switch at the same time the v shape notch bracket should have returned to normal which means the interupt switch should be sitting in the notch (not activated any longer) the over stroke switch is really there to cancel the other switch if it were to be activated too long or prevent the ESA from activating when in gear. Theoritcally if everything was adjusted right and working well you could probably get by without the overstroke (which they do with the new module/timer). But Greg seems pretty certain he is missing the paddle # 37 on the diagram so I guess we need him to verify whats really missing?

 

[GregCC167Concept]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Bob and Lou thanks for talking it out. I put your comments together in my mind with what the mechanic showed and told me. Bob it is definitely NOT the "paddle" that is missing. There is a switch, that I replaced when I replaced the ESA that sits next to that paddle that activates the ESA when the prongs are moved. I'm about 99% certain now that it is part 34 (a cam) that Lou pointed out that is missing. There is an assembly that sits beside the overstroke switch that is supposed to have two of these cams on it. One is still there and is in a fixed (non-adjustable) position. The other fits inside a cutout that is designed such that the cam can be adjusted back and forth so it activates that overstroke switch at the right time. My mechanic also mentioned the same thing you did Bob, that it might be possible to just bypass the overstroke and do without it if everything is and stays adjusted just right. But he also said I might be able to straight wire around it temporarily to test the ESA to see if it has the built in delay since it's newer than the one I had. I haven't tried either of these options yet but may do just that. And just to set the facts, he verified using an ohm-meter that the ESA and the associated switch that I replaced are good and that the overstroke switch is bad. And I can only assume, that unless the overstroke switch and cam are replaced or bypassed, the ESA will not kick in at all because it is not currently. In other words, my symptom is that the ESA never kicks in and makes shifting out of gear difficult. It is NOT that the ESA kicks in and doesn't kick back out causing the engine to die or stumble for too long. Does that all sound logical?

 

[Boatin Bob]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Greg...yes if the overstroke switch is bad then your ESA will not activate. Think of the switches being opposite of each other, when the ESA interupt switch is activated (normally open switch) it sends a signal to the ESA module however this signal goes through the overstroke switch which is a normally closed switch. If the push button on that switch was stuck in or the contacts inside were dirty or open then the signal would never get to the ESA, thats why for testing purposes you could jumper that switch out to check out your ESA and switch. You are correct there are 2 cams on that shift bracket one fixed and one adjustable, I forget which cam is for which gear but it doesn't really matter. Part of the adjustment procedure has you line up the adjustable cam with the overstroke switch button right in the middle of the cam. As far as the new style ESA module goes I'm pretty sure the connector to plug into the switches only has 2 wires (can't remember if they are the black or blue ones) where as the old style has 4 wires to hook up both switches. I'll be going up to my boat this weekend and will look because I know one engine has the old style and one has the new style

 

[GregCC167Concept]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Bob I think the overstroke switch has two blue wires, one of which is looped back at the coupling. Do you know off-hand how i could manipulate the wires to remove the overstroke switch from the works such that I can see if the ESA will kick in before I pay for and replace the overstroke? Or if I just want to take the switch out of play and use the ESA without it? Looks like there are 4 wires there at the coupling, 2 black and 2 blue. Any thoughts or concerns?

 

[GregCC167Concept]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Actually Bob I was wrong. The two blue wires come out of the switch that activates the ESA - the one with the rocker arm. They connect to two black wires via a coupler on the overstroke switch and one of the blue wires is looped around in the overstroke side of the coupler. <br /><br />Hopefully if it doesn't rain, I'm gonna go for a test spin Saturday. If you can think of a way to exclude the overstroke switch temporarily, I'd like to give it a shot.<br /><br />Thanks much!

 

[Boatin Bob]

Re: OMC Cobra - Shift Parts Etc.

Greg....if you pull the connector apart you will see 4 pins inside, the connector that goes to the module like you said probably has a black and blue wire plus a blue loop. Look inside the connector and the pins are 3 in one row and one on top, you should be able to follow where the black and blue wires go probably the two pins on the right hand side. All you want to do is short those 2 pins together, either with a scredriver or a jumper wire and this will activate your ESA. It's OK to start the engine with this connector undone, by shorting the 2 together you are simulating activating the interrupter switch and the overstroke switch is out of the picture. Hope you can follow this, it's easier to do than try to type it out.