omc 800 series question

[mopar56]

Hi guys, just new to this forum, like what I see, anyway to the point hears my questions, Im repairing my father in laws boat,(he didn't winterize it and filled the block with water) its a 800 series leg 225 OMC, I am removing and replaceing the motor and trying to get the leg off, yeah, you know my first problem, the shift cable):, I read some of the replys on this forum from past threads and tried them all, everything is un-bolted and ready to go but the cable just wont come out, I tried spaying wd40 down both sides of it, I tried putting a pry bar between the upper housing for leverage and pulling as had as I could and now the rubber is chaffing and in danger of tearing, now the other problem I had is the trim motor is seized so I couldn't get the leg down however I was considering removing the lower toothed triangular gear to allow me to drop the leg would this give me any better access to the cable? and worse come to worse if I have to cut the cable how hard is it to change in the leg end?, lastly when I get the leg off finnally what is the next step in order to remove the engine which is already un-bolted and ready to go, thanks in advance, Ed, oh yeah I also tried the two person pulling and pushing on the cable, no joy!

 

[dan t.]

Re: omc 800 series question

First of all, you dont need to pull the leg on a 800,it would acomplish nothing. Undo the bell housing,the flywheel cover plate, the exhaust at the risers, the front motor mounts,wiring fuel etc, lift the motor slightly and pull forward about 3 inches. You will then be clear of the intermediat housing and shaft,if the exhaust is clear, LIFT

 

[mopar56]

Re: omc 800 series question

Thanks Dan, I actually wondered about that but all other outdrives need to have the leg pulled in order to pull the motor so I just "assumed", any way how to you then line yhings up going back together?, Ed

 

[Howard Sterndrive]

Re: omc 800 series question

don't cut that cable, it's $700

 

[superbenk]

Re: omc 800 series question

I assume you unbolted the small C-shaped clip that holds the cable to the intermediate housing just to the port side of the ball gears?

Be careful, you sound like you're dangerously close to damaging that very expensive cable!

 

[mopar56]

Re: omc 800 series question

Yes I did remove the clip and yes I am close to the damageing point however after Dans comment earlier it sounds like I don't need to remove the drive anyway so I guess I will just put that end of things back together and procede with the engine removal, dose anyone know on this modle,(with power trim) if I just remove the castelated nut from the top of the front mount will I be able to lift the motor high enough to clear the top of the mount threads so I can get the motor foward the three inchs I need to remove the engine?, also dose anyone know the re-alingment procedure?, thanks Ed

 

[dan t.]

Re: omc 800 series question

Sorry cant help with the power trim question, mine was a fixed trim. There is no alignment procedure as everything bolts together in one piece. You dont want to have to change the cable it is a PITA to change at he leg end. To drop the leg you can unbolt the curved rack

 

[wire2]

Re: omc 800 series question

The trunnion bearings line the leg up with the intermediate, so no issue.

I had some corrosion around the cable the first time I tried to pull it out. I sprayed some PB Blaster on it, wiggled it around, left it a couple hours, then it came out. I polished the hole, lined it with synthetic grease. In/out like a wet noodle after that.

 

[mopar56]

Re: omc 800 series question

Hey, thanks for all the help, as mentioned earlier this is not my boat,(father in laws), with my only experience on stern drives being with Volvo, Merc, and Cobra, I just assumed it would have the same set up where you have to have the leg off to slide in the intermediate shaft/u-joint assembly but it sounds as if this is quite different so I am going to re-install the leg and proceded with pulling the motor, also I have a manual comming, the next problem I have is the bell housing exhaust tubes which come out at a 45d angle are quite corroded and the risers/manifolds are toast,(hence the demise of the motor), the current set up as rear dump risers In have an opportunity to purchace some "good used" manifolds that have integeral risers that slope down to a bell housing that has exhaust tubes that exit 90d from the bell housing, if I were to change the bell housing, exhust tubes and manifolds are they interchangeable? they are from an earlier 225 omc mine is a few years later 265 omc, thanks again.

 

[wire2]

Re: omc 800 series question

........ the next problem I have is the bell housing exhaust tubes which come out at a 45d angle are quite corroded and the risers/manifolds are toast,(hence the demise of the motor), the current set up as rear dump risers In have an opportunity to purchace some "good used" manifolds that have integeral risers that slope down to a bell housing that has exhaust tubes that exit 90d from the bell housing, if I were to change the bell housing, exhust tubes and manifolds are they interchangeable? they are from an earlier 225 omc mine is a few years later 265 omc, thanks again.

Well, yes but you may need to fabricate a custom piece of tube between the riser and intermediate with straight and elbows to make it fit. I did something similar using 1/8" wall aluminum tube. It's easier to work with than the 12 lb cast iron monsters OMC supplied.

 

[mopar56]

Re: omc 800 series question

Thanks, I will go take a closer look at the motor they are on, a I can buy them all for $100.00, so what is "p.b. blaster" and where do you get it?, I have never heard of it, Ed