OMC 1.6L Seadrive - Cooling System Mtnc.

J. Fenn

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 25, 2002
Messages
31
I've got a pair of 1984 OMC 1.6L 115 hp Seadrives, Serial Nos. J809J14 and J809634. I bought the boat in 1998, and have fished it about 20 times since, all in saltwater. I flush for 5 minutes with fresh water after each use, but I have not serviced any part of the cooling systems. Cooling systems on both engines seem to be working fine. <br /><br />I want to perform a comprehensive service on the cooling systems before I use it this season. After reviewing my manual, I had a few questions for the pros on this forum:<br /><br />Water pumps:<br />The water pump kit says use Adhesive M on the impeller housing seal and cover grommet. Is there a suitable substitute for Adhesive M at your basic auto parts store? Same question for OMC Gasket Sealing Compound.<br /><br />Thermostats:<br />I called the OMC dealer I usually trade with and asked if there was a thermostat kit. The man who runs the parts counter said there was not, but that he had all the parts I would need. Is there no kit? Should I replace the relief valves when I replace the thermostats?<br /><br />Several posts have stated that it's possible to service the thermostats without removing the powerhead. One post suggested removing the plastic exhaust covers and then loosening the lower engine cover from the exhaust housing to get a little more room for wrench turning. Is this necessary, or just a good idea? Any other tips for getting at those bolts is much appreciated.<br /><br />Cylinder Head Gaskets/Diverters:<br />I've read in some posts that some consider replacement of cylinder head gaskets and water diverters to be in the routine maintenance category. As I've not had any indications of cooling problems, is this something I should do? Should I also replace the cylinder head cover gaskets at the same time?<br /><br />Warning Horn:<br />One of my stock horns has crapped out. The other is o.k., but barely loud enough. Is there a reliable aftermarket horn that will announce itself with authority? Both engines are wired to the one good horn right now. Been thinking about using just one horn and wiring idiot lights into the circuits for each engine. I'd appreciate your thoughts/suggestions.<br /><br />Several of the bolts on both the thermostat housing and cylinder heads are not stainless and are showing corrosion. Are there any issues with replacing steel hardware with stainless on thermostats and cylinder heads? I use an aircraft sealant on other stainless to aluminum fittings to prevent white rust. Seems to work well, but I have not used it anywhere that is subjected to heat such as a powerhead.<br /><br />Lastly, does anyone have any firsthand experience with Salt-Away? Is it worthwhile product?<br /><br />Please let me know if I've overlooked anything. Thanks.<br /><br />Joe F.
 

Solittle

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Apr 28, 2002
Messages
7,518
Re: OMC 1.6L Seadrive - Cooling System Mtnc.

Welcome Joe - Lots of info at this site! I hope that you stick around and contribute.<br /><br />I may be able to offer some advice as I have a pair of 1987 1.6L v4s on my 23' CC. I have had this rig for 10 yrs. Now -<br /><br />Water pumps:<br />The water pump kit says use Adhesive M on the impeller housing seal and cover grommet. Is there a suitable substitute for Adhesive M at your basic auto parts store? Same question for OMC Gasket Sealing Compound.<br /><br />I use Sealer 1000 but any like product will do just fine. Just apply it per the manual (I hope you have the OMC manual).<br /><br />Thermostats:<br />I called the OMC dealer I usually trade with and asked if there was a thermostat kit. The man who runs the parts counter said there was not, but that he had all the parts I would need. Is there no kit? Should I replace the relief valves when I replace the thermostats?<br /><br />I don't remember if there is a kit but I think so. In any case replace the relief valves & T-stats.<br /><br />Several posts have stated that it's possible to service the thermostats without removing the powerhead. One post suggested removing the plastic exhaust covers and then loosening the lower engine cover from the exhaust housing to get a little more room for wrench turning. Is this necessary, or just a good idea? Any other tips for getting at those bolts is much appreciated.<br /><br />You can do this job without removing the powerhead (I have done it). With the first motor I dropped the pan a bit but found that I could do it without dropping it for the second motor. You will have to remove the rear shell below the pan. This job requires patience to get the bolts that hold the cover out. I used a 1/4" drive socket set with a universal and a real long extension (12"+). You will end up working both from above and below the pan at the base of the motor. You will also need a 7/16" open/box wrench.<br /><br />Cylinder Head Gaskets/Diverters:<br />I've read in some posts that some consider replacement of cylinder head gaskets and water diverters to be in the routine maintenance category. As I've not had any indications of cooling problems, is this something I should do? Should I also replace the cylinder head cover gaskets at the same time?<br /><br />I replaced both the diverters and the head gaskets last year as I did not know if/when the diverters has ever been done. It is a relatively easy job. When you get the heads off clean the water passages thoroughly. Use dish washer soap to lube the diverters when installing.<br /><br />Warning Horn:<br />One of my stock horns has crapped out. The other is o.k., but barely loud enough. Is there a reliable aftermarket horn that will announce itself with authority? Both engines are wired to the one good horn right now. Been thinking about using just one horn and wiring idiot lights into the circuits for each engine. I'd appreciate your thoughts/suggestions.<br /><br />I have not had to work on mine but if I were you I would get that fixed. If you have a problem you may need to quickly know which motor is getting hot. I also have both water pressure and temp guages.<br /><br />Several of the bolts on both the thermostat housing and cylinder heads are not stainless and are showing corrosion. Are there any issues with replacing steel hardware with stainless on thermostats and cylinder heads? I use an aircraft sealant on other stainless to aluminum fittings to prevent white rust. Seems to work well, but I have not used it anywhere that is subjected to heat such as a powerhead.<br /><br />I used Sealer 1000<br /><br />Make sure that you replace the o ring at the top of the driveshaft when you put the lower unit back on.<br /><br />These motors are the same as other OMC motors. I have had no problems with the SeaDrive assembly yet and hope never to have any. The manual is intimidating in that area.<br /><br />As you probably know already you need to exercise care when comming off plane to minimize the stern wave washing over the motors. They do sit low in the water and the major gripe I have heard is water injestion.<br /><br />I have heard that the SaltaWay was good stuff but I have no experience with it.<br /><br />Have fun.
 

J. Fenn

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 25, 2002
Messages
31
Re: OMC 1.6L Seadrive - Cooling System Mtnc.

SoLittle,<br /><br />Do you use the Sealer 1000 as substitute for both Adhesive M and Gasket Sealing Compound, or just the latter?<br /><br />Did you replace the cylinder head cover gaskets when you replaced the cylinder head gaskets?<br /><br />I have temp gauges, but I think I will add idiot lights, too. I need a blastin' horn though.<br /><br />Thanks for the reply.
 
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