Im reposting here from searay subforum:
So i just found out my recently acquired 1990 searay 220 DA, Merc 350 5.7L 8 cyl (260hp?) thunderbolt i/o with SE106 outdrive has swiss cheese for an oil pan (probably original part), or so im being told, not to mention a $2300 replacement cost. Had the alarm going off first time she was out a few weeks ago and gauge going over 220 but then it stabilized around 150 for the time i kept running it in the water (not long). So they tell me the engine and outdrive needs to come out just to change the pan but i dont even know what shape the engine is in, looks like original too 800 hrs? might not be worth it to put back in, when i got her 'as is' there was almost no oil put a gallon in im hoping it just dripped out and wasnt ran that way; when we took her out first time after topping off all fluids alarm went off and she stalled (thats after mechanic did a tuneup and said all is ok but that was on land), took a couple times to start back up every time. So i noticed oil in the bilge but also colors behind the outdrive in water, they tell me its definitely the pan and 16-20 hrs labor for pulling motor at cost mentioned. Even when the alarm buzzer stayed off there was a lot of vibration and loss of power at higher rpms i dont think she really ever went on plane although im not used to this size its so big it feels like youre barely moving (oh yeah speedo was broken at that time)
Has anyone ever fixed an oil pan or replaced without lifting engine on this model? It seems like theres a little room under motor to get your hand in if the bolts were right there it might be possible? Didnt have a close look yet boats not here. I heard also about using JB weld etc anyone try that? The thing that confuses me is the colors in the water behind boat either it was just gear case lube? from when i changed it or theres another leak, but i read oil could be leaking from some kind of seal between engine and outdrive and going out of boat and the oil pan may not be at fault. If i could do the oil pan myself i might be able to save thousands by leaving the old engine in till the whole thing dies a few years from now not getting it pulled out and put back in when there might be other issues. Any suggestions on the oil pan issue? I'll do anything to get to enjoy her for a while this season
id really appreciate it if anyone who changed the pan on one of these replied, whether you tried without pulling it and couldnt or whether it was possible. it looks like theres some room under the engine but i dont know how far down the pan would have to come down to detach and put back on. i was thinking of finding the leak with a mirror and trying something like jb weld if its one hole not the entire pan falling apart at least to get thru the season and look for a rebuild in the spring maybe but i was told ill blow up the engine if i run it and keep adding oil every day...does that make sense if oil pressure stays relatively constant? or does the loss of power with a lot of acceleration mean there is a huge hole? couldnt really tell with water and oil mixed in bilge. one more thing, hey told me outdrive has to come out hence the 20 hrs of labor, is that the case? or is there a way for me to just loosen the engine mounts and lift it/tilt it a little to get access? anotherwords is there an inflexible connection to outdrive or would there be some room to move it around?
So i just found out my recently acquired 1990 searay 220 DA, Merc 350 5.7L 8 cyl (260hp?) thunderbolt i/o with SE106 outdrive has swiss cheese for an oil pan (probably original part), or so im being told, not to mention a $2300 replacement cost. Had the alarm going off first time she was out a few weeks ago and gauge going over 220 but then it stabilized around 150 for the time i kept running it in the water (not long). So they tell me the engine and outdrive needs to come out just to change the pan but i dont even know what shape the engine is in, looks like original too 800 hrs? might not be worth it to put back in, when i got her 'as is' there was almost no oil put a gallon in im hoping it just dripped out and wasnt ran that way; when we took her out first time after topping off all fluids alarm went off and she stalled (thats after mechanic did a tuneup and said all is ok but that was on land), took a couple times to start back up every time. So i noticed oil in the bilge but also colors behind the outdrive in water, they tell me its definitely the pan and 16-20 hrs labor for pulling motor at cost mentioned. Even when the alarm buzzer stayed off there was a lot of vibration and loss of power at higher rpms i dont think she really ever went on plane although im not used to this size its so big it feels like youre barely moving (oh yeah speedo was broken at that time)
Has anyone ever fixed an oil pan or replaced without lifting engine on this model? It seems like theres a little room under motor to get your hand in if the bolts were right there it might be possible? Didnt have a close look yet boats not here. I heard also about using JB weld etc anyone try that? The thing that confuses me is the colors in the water behind boat either it was just gear case lube? from when i changed it or theres another leak, but i read oil could be leaking from some kind of seal between engine and outdrive and going out of boat and the oil pan may not be at fault. If i could do the oil pan myself i might be able to save thousands by leaving the old engine in till the whole thing dies a few years from now not getting it pulled out and put back in when there might be other issues. Any suggestions on the oil pan issue? I'll do anything to get to enjoy her for a while this season
id really appreciate it if anyone who changed the pan on one of these replied, whether you tried without pulling it and couldnt or whether it was possible. it looks like theres some room under the engine but i dont know how far down the pan would have to come down to detach and put back on. i was thinking of finding the leak with a mirror and trying something like jb weld if its one hole not the entire pan falling apart at least to get thru the season and look for a rebuild in the spring maybe but i was told ill blow up the engine if i run it and keep adding oil every day...does that make sense if oil pressure stays relatively constant? or does the loss of power with a lot of acceleration mean there is a huge hole? couldnt really tell with water and oil mixed in bilge. one more thing, hey told me outdrive has to come out hence the 20 hrs of labor, is that the case? or is there a way for me to just loosen the engine mounts and lift it/tilt it a little to get access? anotherwords is there an inflexible connection to outdrive or would there be some room to move it around?
