Normal Points Wear

[phoodieman]

Do points normally wear in the center or is it random? I put a red oval where I found some pitting. (Pic isn't too good so I high lighted it with the oval).

Phoodieman

 

[boobie]

Re: Normal Points Wear

It's normal, why do you ask ? If they're pitted real bad you may want to check or change your condensers.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Normal Points Wear

I agree. a little is ok, but if you're really worried, you can use a bit of very fine sand grit sandpaper to polish up the points. just to be sure you clean them well afterwards. carb clarner on a business card works well for cleaning off any residues. Also, points are slightly convex when new, so make sure they're contacting eachother on center.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Normal Points Wear

That's a pretty fuzzy picture but almost all points can just be refiled, cleaned and reused. I never buy points.

 

[phoodieman]

Re: Normal Points Wear

The motor is a 1967, but I don't think it has a lot of hours on it. Unfortunately, I think it has sat unused for long periods several times. Which is probably worse than ultra high use. The contacts on the other point set look brand new. But both ends that ride on the shaft have a lot of corrosion. (Which is why I think it sat for long periods unused. The oiler wick wasn't able to do it's job). I believe the fly wheel has NEVER been removed and all the ignition components located there are original. Since I have the fly wheel off, I'm going to replace the points. This motor is a real enigma.

Phoodieman

 

[jeffnick]

Re: Normal Points Wear

Another vote for normal.
I never recondition -- always replace.

 

[wilde1j]

Re: Normal Points Wear

Filing gives limited following service. Good, new points are typically tungsten plated, which filing removes. But it does allow continued use. If they're bad enough to file, just replace.

 

[bktheking]

Re: Normal Points Wear

I replace where warranted, you can't always get away with refiling. I've ran across ones that are down to nothing and ones that are not aligned and wear the points off center. For the price of a tune up kit its certainly not a bank breaker (pardon the pun)

 

[oldcatamount]

Re: Normal Points Wear

"Carb cleaner on a business card"! Great tip!

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Normal Points Wear

I wish I could take credit for that little trick oldcatamount, but I beleive I stumbled across it here in a thread by the all-knowing and ever wise F R. But a great idea is a great idea.
Phoodieman, since you're gonna go to the trouble of pulling the flywheel, check for cracked or scorched coils too. If all the ignition components really are original, the coils are ceartainly bad. These old OMC motors were famous for it. About there only flaw. New coils are cheap and easy to replace and you can probably get them right here at iboats.
It seem like and enigma now, but these old Jonnys and E-rudes are very simple, reliable, cheap and easy motors to work on compared to newer motors, in my opinion. You'll have it figured out in no time. Keep us posted.

 

[jeffnick]

Re: Normal Points Wear

"Carb cleaner on a business card"! Great tip!

Unless your points are really pitted and you drag a little 'insulation' off that card...

 

[i386]

Re: Normal Points Wear

The motor is a 1967, but I don't think it has a lot of hours on it. Unfortunately, I think it has sat unused for long periods several times. Which is probably worse than ultra high use. The contacts on the other point set look brand new. But both ends that ride on the shaft have a lot of corrosion. (Which is why I think it sat for long periods unused. The oiler wick wasn't able to do it's job). I believe the fly wheel has NEVER been removed and all the ignition components located there are original. Since I have the fly wheel off, I'm going to replace the points. This motor is a real enigma.

Phoodieman

I'm no pro so take my advice for what it's worth (not much)... From your other pics it looked to me like the cam was a little boogered up from the flywheel removal. The coils looked a little melted from the heat too.

I'd take everything off the stator plate and dress the crankshaft/flywheel taper per the manual. Then I'd buy a new cam, woodruff key, points set and coils. I'd replace any screws on the stator plate that show any signs of being boogered too.