No water pressure

cedarglen

Recruit
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
2
I recently did a complete rebuild of my '89 Mariner MagnumII 150 after a a broken oil injector line caused the engine to seize up. When I first fired it up, the water pressure at idle was in the 2-3 psi range instead of the 7-8 it was before the rebuild. The poppet valve was releasing water, and when I clamped the line running to it, the result was the 7-8 psi I was expecting. I rebuilt the valve, but that didn't seem to make any difference. I left the valve clamped off and put the boat in the water and started to break-in. After a couple of hours of idling around, I started raising the engine speed. I never took it over 2500 rpm. While cruising along, at 2500 rpm I had about 20lbs pressure, which is about what I was getting before the re-build, but then the pressure dropped to about 12 psi and then dropped to 0. I backed off immediately. There was still water coming out of the pee hole, and it was not hot to the hand. I'm thinking maybe having the poppet valve clamped off may have caused something to give. I tested the guage, and it's okay. I also looked at the water pump, which I had rebuilt when I was doing the engine. Maybe a gasket somewhere? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks....
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,953
Stand behind the engine with the cowl off and follow the pee hose from the outlet back to the origin. Does it tee into a hose that goes down below the block and going the other way go up to the left bank stat and then on over to the right bank stat? Does your popoff valve get fed from a hose coming from atop the engine and goes down below the block?

If you are plumbed like I said, the stats have to open before you get any pee. And as the engine is warming up, especially when the ambient water temp is cold it will pee and stop etc. as the block is coming up to temp. Pellet should be stamped 143 for 143F opening temp. The popoff is set to unseat due to water pressure at 2500 rpm and is there to increase the available water flow with increased rpms.

Just second guessing, you lost pressure when your popoff unseated. What's confusing is that you said that you had the hose clamped off.....maybe not. Maybe you had the wrong hose clamped off. The change from 20 to 12 was the first stage of unseating and the rest was it wide open.

With the popoff open, the flow through the engine, considering a reasonable ambient surface water temperature, should be such that the stats will close down because the flow is such that the water exchange through the block is faster than the BTUs of heat put into it caused by the engine firing heat.

Couple of things. You should have an over temp alarm on that engine with a sensor on the right bank as I recall. Output is a tan or tan with a light blue stripe which exhibits a ground when the block internal temp hits 195F. You might follow that wire to the bayonet connector, pull it apart, and with the ignition key in the on position, stick a wire in the control cable half of the connection you just opened and ground the other end of the wire to a non painted spot on the engine block. upon doing that you should hear your warning horn blast a solid blast. If so your OT system, other than the sensor, is working as it should and you are protected. If you want to check the sensor too, pull it out and put it in a pot of water on the stove with a candy thermometer and test it for a short between the wire and the case of the sensor when you get up to 195 thereabouts on the thermometer.

Second thing is to get back out without the popoff hose clamped and run your engine at WOT for a pressure, pee stream, and temp check. If you are worried about overheating the engine, with the cowling off, punch out of the hole and run for a couple of minutes and shut her down to idle and immediately get back and feel the top of the block. If you can keep your hand on it you are fine.

For reference, 143F is very close to the temperature of a domestic US hot water heater set to the Normal position. So, before you go, turn on your hot water at home, let it get to temp and feel it. When I was working in industry, 70 Centigrade was the can't hold you hand on it reference point. 70C is just under 160F.

HTH,
Mark
 

cedarglen

Recruit
Joined
Aug 23, 2015
Messages
2
Thanks, Mark

The plumbing is exactly as you describe it. The tube that feeds the pressure relief valve runs from the top of the engine, through a tee that also feeds the pressure guage. It's the tube I clamped off to get the pressure to increase to 7-8 psi at idle. I've owned this engine and the boat it's on since 1990, and the pressure at idle has always been between 5 and 8., and between 15 and 22 at speed.

I tested the stats when I had the engine disassemble and they both tested ok.

The relief valve was clamped off, so I don't understand how it could be affecting the pressure. It didn't just drop, it went to zero. With or without the clamp on the pressure is still zero. Mind you, I haven't run it above idle since it lost pressure but it doesn't even show the 2-3 psi that I had before e drop.

I checked the OT sensor as you suggested, and it buzzes. It was working before the seize up as well. We've got a lot of weeds here, so it comes in handy.

I think before I put it in the water and run the test you suggested, I'm going to install a temp guage. The wiring is there, I just have to get a guage and connect it.

Jim
 
Last edited:

Dukedog

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2009
Messages
3,515
normal pressure is 2 ta 5 lbs at idle and minimum of 12 lbs at wot.. clamping tha hose does nothing to tha operation of tha poppet.. that hose was placed there as an "air pocket" relief back in '89 and has been there ever since... take the clamp off and put it through its paces.. if it has a heating problem (warning horn goin' off) in that form ya have a problem somewhere.......
 
Top