tootallofwa
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Feb 20, 2010
- Messages
- 177
I trying to revive a 63' Big Twin 40hp 40352d That's getting spark to only one cylinder.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/engineIDsm.jpg
My first thought was that I need to check coils, points, plug wires which I haven't done yet.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/...958_6135_40hpwithoutgenerato.jpg?t=1179771951
I saw this wiring diagram on another thread and realized that the cutout switch or the safety switch or a short in a magneto wire could cause my symptoms.
I think I have a kill /shutoff condition.
So I examined my engine closer and found 2 sensors/switches on the White wire circuit which I'm trying to understand function of... I do not have electric choke.
Also I'm trying to figure the polaritys to account for which one may be causing the trouble.
I've discovered that the ignition wires (two black wires) are connected to each other when in off condition within the switch to short the points together to create a kill condition.
I put a volt meter between the block and; the cutout switch center post where one black wire connected, and also to a knife connection, I believe to be the olher black wire, while in the run position and got 0 voltage on each. (In the first picture, the wire looks bad on the cutout center post but it has continuity.) (In the second picture the wire is not pinched and that is a tear in a jacket over the wire not the insulation. The knife connector in inside the fat sleeve laying on the case).
Guess I need to try ohm meter instead.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/CutoutSwitchsm.jpg
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/Blkignwire1sm.jpg
How does the cut out valve work? It's supposed to connect to the non start lug of the solenoid, which I found out is a ground. So I can still crank it fine with the key and the one plug works. This also means the solenoid works.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/Junctionboxjumpsm.jpg
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/Junctionboxdiagramsm-1.jpg
If the white wire is a ground to the solenoid from the cut out switch and the safety switch for kill. Either switch could be killing my spark.
Oohh! just discovered the white wire looks bad in the junction block. I'm gonna have to replace some wire. no obvious ground connections. (The junction box to battery cables were bad too. Red coating crumbling off cable, Black bandaged with tape.) Might have to check out the power head harness.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/mercuryswitchsm.jpg
There's also a brown wire that seems to go from a temp sensor/mercury switch? in the head to the ignition switch. Does this switch disable crank if motor is not down? or provide for an idiot light that I don't have.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v460/BoatBuoy/iboats/wiring4.jpg
This other wiring diagram shows a safety switch that is connected only to the cutout switch, and the other white wire that goes back to solenoid. Is this the "neutral" safety switch? It's in neutral as shown. How does this work? Is there a adjustment? I don't have a kill switch on my motor.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/safetyswitchsm.jpg
I was dreaming that it would just start after cleaning the fuel system.
Any suggestions/answers???
I'm waiting for a book in the mail.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/engineIDsm.jpg
My first thought was that I need to check coils, points, plug wires which I haven't done yet.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/...958_6135_40hpwithoutgenerato.jpg?t=1179771951
I saw this wiring diagram on another thread and realized that the cutout switch or the safety switch or a short in a magneto wire could cause my symptoms.
I think I have a kill /shutoff condition.
So I examined my engine closer and found 2 sensors/switches on the White wire circuit which I'm trying to understand function of... I do not have electric choke.
Also I'm trying to figure the polaritys to account for which one may be causing the trouble.
I've discovered that the ignition wires (two black wires) are connected to each other when in off condition within the switch to short the points together to create a kill condition.
I put a volt meter between the block and; the cutout switch center post where one black wire connected, and also to a knife connection, I believe to be the olher black wire, while in the run position and got 0 voltage on each. (In the first picture, the wire looks bad on the cutout center post but it has continuity.) (In the second picture the wire is not pinched and that is a tear in a jacket over the wire not the insulation. The knife connector in inside the fat sleeve laying on the case).
Guess I need to try ohm meter instead.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/CutoutSwitchsm.jpg
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/Blkignwire1sm.jpg
How does the cut out valve work? It's supposed to connect to the non start lug of the solenoid, which I found out is a ground. So I can still crank it fine with the key and the one plug works. This also means the solenoid works.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/Junctionboxjumpsm.jpg
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/Junctionboxdiagramsm-1.jpg
If the white wire is a ground to the solenoid from the cut out switch and the safety switch for kill. Either switch could be killing my spark.
Oohh! just discovered the white wire looks bad in the junction block. I'm gonna have to replace some wire. no obvious ground connections. (The junction box to battery cables were bad too. Red coating crumbling off cable, Black bandaged with tape.) Might have to check out the power head harness.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/mercuryswitchsm.jpg
There's also a brown wire that seems to go from a temp sensor/mercury switch? in the head to the ignition switch. Does this switch disable crank if motor is not down? or provide for an idiot light that I don't have.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v460/BoatBuoy/iboats/wiring4.jpg
This other wiring diagram shows a safety switch that is connected only to the cutout switch, and the other white wire that goes back to solenoid. Is this the "neutral" safety switch? It's in neutral as shown. How does this work? Is there a adjustment? I don't have a kill switch on my motor.
http://i1024.photobucket.com/albums/y309/tootallofwa/safetyswitchsm.jpg
I was dreaming that it would just start after cleaning the fuel system.
Any suggestions/answers???
I'm waiting for a book in the mail.
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