no spark at distributor running out of parts to check please help

[19 ft money pit]

okay here's the scoop is a 1994 proline 4.3 l v6 mercruiser engine number is 0f124025 the parts that I've replaced are ignition switch, Coil,spark plug wires, spark plugs cap, rotor ,ignition sensor inside the distributor ok now things that I have done checked for inline fuse which i do not see one,i went through the trouble shooting for Thunderbolt ignition lV and confirmed all of the voltage at the coil and received a spark when i grounded out green and white wire which said I needed to replace ignition sensor so I did but still no spark and no firing of engine but cranks great battery voltage is good also if there is anyone out there that can help me it would be greatly appreciated I just bought this boat and only been on it 3 times my wife and kids are very disappointed that Daddy that can fix everything can't fix it thank you in advanced

 

[achris]

Check the distributor is grounded properly. Most of the 1994 engines did not have a ground wire on the distributor, so pull the spare out of the harness and attach it to the dissy...

 

[alldodge]

okay here's the scoop is a 1994 proline 4.3 l v6 mercruiser engine number is 0f124025 the parts that I've replaced are ignition switch, Coil,spark plug wires, spark plugs cap, rotor ,ignition sensor inside the distributor ok now things that I have done checked for inline fuse which i do not see one,i went through the trouble shooting for Thunderbolt ignition lV and confirmed all of the voltage at the coil and received a spark when i grounded out green and white wire which said I needed to replace ignition sensor so I did but still no spark and no firing of engine but cranks great battery voltage is good also if there is anyone out there that can help me it would be greatly appreciated I just bought this boat and only been on it 3 times my wife and kids are very disappointed that Daddy that can fix everything can't fix it thank you in advanced

:welcome: to iboats

You struck the why green wire and got a spark across the spark gap from the coil tower. OK
Something does not add up. If you got no spark you could move on, but you said you got a spark. If you try it again and receive NO spark then need to sub a new coil. If still no spark, you need an AMP.

Please redefine what is going on

 

[achris]

Also check that you're not losing the spark inside the dissy somewhere. Pull the centre wire out of the dissy cap and put a spark plug in it. Put that spark plug on the engine block and crank the engine... See spark, problem is with the rotor or the cap... No spark, go back to the diagnostic chart...

 

[19 ft money pit]

thank you guys for the reply so fast the old distributor didnt have a ground the new ignition sensor did so i grounded it to the intake bolt is that the right place

i went to check for spark again when i disconnected the grn and wht wire from the shift intrupt switch and touched it to ground i got a good spark then cranked the engine and got a spark out of distributor plugged the wire back in and cranked it again an no spark now what

 

[MikDee]

thank you guys for the reply so fast the old distributor didnt have a ground the new ignition sensor did so i grounded it to the intake bolt is that the right place

i went to check for spark again when i disconnected the grn and wht wire from the shift intrupt switch and touched it to ground i got a good spark then cranked the engine and got a spark out of distributor plugged the wire back in and cranked it again an no spark now what

Apparently then the shift interrupter is grounded! I don't know if that's the way it's supposed to work, or if it's stuck in disable mode?

 

[achris]

The switch should be open in the normal position. Check the lever is centre, and that the switch is actually open circuit on a meter.

 

[19 ft money pit]

Can I leave it disconnected to run the engine

 

[500dollar744ti]

No, because then you won't be able to get it out of gear. The shift interrupter needs to momentarily stop the engine so the RPM drops and the lower unit can disengage.

So I guess you could leave it disconnected to run the engine but you will look silly turning the engine off to get it out of gear and you will probably hit something when you are trying to dock it.

I would fix it right

 

[19 ft money pit]

I just wanna get it running I just installed a new engine and need to get to first oil change then maybe just need an adjustment

 

[achris]

To run the engine to check it, yes, but DO NOT run the boat on the water with the switch disconnected.

 

[achris]

I just wanna get it running I just installed a new engine and need to get to first oil change then maybe just need an adjustment

By 'first oil change' you mean 20 hours... Forget it! Test run on the hose yes, but not in the water... Replace the switch if it's faulty, adjust the cable if it's the adjustment causing the problem... But DO NOT run it on the water like that....

 

[19 ft money pit]

I wouldn't think of running the boat on the water I like that I have children and besides I'm a new boat owner don't want to be in the news and for the first oil change the engine company said to run at 2000 rpm for 30 minutesthen change the oil