pvanv
Admiral
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2008
- Messages
- 6,559
I have a 2007 Nissan 8 hp 4-stroke (NSF 8 A3, serial ending in XG) that came in to our shop in August because it didn't start. Customer said it "made a grinding noise". This is an electric start tiller model. Customer claimed less than 3 hours new, and just trolling.
I found that it had liquid locked from an over-full crankcase. The oil had some fuel smell, and was way over full and creamy with some water contamination. The grinding noise was from the sheared woodruff key at the flywheel. Lower plug was fouled.
Naturally, I assumed he had overfilled the oil (they seem to make oil easily when new and run at low RPM), especially if the owner puts too much oil in, since it only needs 0.8 quarts. Since the oil had some fuel smell, that seemed to confirm break-in blow-by, etc.
Flushed the oil, new plugs, replaced the magneto key, torqued the flywheel, and tank tested with no problems. Returned the motor with a non-warranty bill, because the Tohatsu warranty guys agreed that the problem was the owner's fault. (The customer wasn't happy about the bill, of course), and gave the customer "the talk" about proper oil level, proper break-in, etc. I thought all was done.
It came back in early October with the "same problem". This time the crankcase was so full that it bubbled out of the dipstick hole. The flywheel needed replaced, because the taper was so enlarged. When I drained the oil, a few ounces of clear water came out of the bottom. That's a LOT of water. Way too much for just condensation. Hmm.
According to the factory, water can only get into the crankcase through a bad bottom gasket, and bad head gasket, or submersion. Makes sense to me. I had a new rope-start flywheel handy, so again flushed the oil, put on the new flywheel, and tank tested for a full day. No water in the oil, no oil gain. Good compression, Running perfectly.
Obviously, I haven't done any repair to correct the water issue, but it doesn't get water in the oil during tank testing, and it runs like the head gasket is good. I ordered a new electric-start flywheel, and gave the customer the motor (with the rope start flywheel) to use for a week or 2 to see if he still has any problems.
I've called the owner a few times to check up on the motor. He says that he checks the oil regularly, and it doesn't have any water in it, and the mtor runs fine. He would like me to set the idle a little higher, but that's all. He also wants this covered under warranty, and would like a warranty refund of his original bill.
The factory feels that the customer may have a security problem. Vandalism or something. So they want me to charge him again. My boss wonders whether this trolling motor gets submerged at some point, either when running the main motor, or when launching. As far as I know, this is the only motor on the aluminum fishing boat. The customer denies any submersion, of course.
Am I missing something? I want to help the customer, but at the same time, I have to agree with the Tohatsu factory guys.
Thanks,
Paul
I found that it had liquid locked from an over-full crankcase. The oil had some fuel smell, and was way over full and creamy with some water contamination. The grinding noise was from the sheared woodruff key at the flywheel. Lower plug was fouled.
Naturally, I assumed he had overfilled the oil (they seem to make oil easily when new and run at low RPM), especially if the owner puts too much oil in, since it only needs 0.8 quarts. Since the oil had some fuel smell, that seemed to confirm break-in blow-by, etc.
Flushed the oil, new plugs, replaced the magneto key, torqued the flywheel, and tank tested with no problems. Returned the motor with a non-warranty bill, because the Tohatsu warranty guys agreed that the problem was the owner's fault. (The customer wasn't happy about the bill, of course), and gave the customer "the talk" about proper oil level, proper break-in, etc. I thought all was done.
It came back in early October with the "same problem". This time the crankcase was so full that it bubbled out of the dipstick hole. The flywheel needed replaced, because the taper was so enlarged. When I drained the oil, a few ounces of clear water came out of the bottom. That's a LOT of water. Way too much for just condensation. Hmm.
According to the factory, water can only get into the crankcase through a bad bottom gasket, and bad head gasket, or submersion. Makes sense to me. I had a new rope-start flywheel handy, so again flushed the oil, put on the new flywheel, and tank tested for a full day. No water in the oil, no oil gain. Good compression, Running perfectly.
Obviously, I haven't done any repair to correct the water issue, but it doesn't get water in the oil during tank testing, and it runs like the head gasket is good. I ordered a new electric-start flywheel, and gave the customer the motor (with the rope start flywheel) to use for a week or 2 to see if he still has any problems.
I've called the owner a few times to check up on the motor. He says that he checks the oil regularly, and it doesn't have any water in it, and the mtor runs fine. He would like me to set the idle a little higher, but that's all. He also wants this covered under warranty, and would like a warranty refund of his original bill.
The factory feels that the customer may have a security problem. Vandalism or something. So they want me to charge him again. My boss wonders whether this trolling motor gets submerged at some point, either when running the main motor, or when launching. As far as I know, this is the only motor on the aluminum fishing boat. The customer denies any submersion, of course.
Am I missing something? I want to help the customer, but at the same time, I have to agree with the Tohatsu factory guys.
Thanks,
Paul