Nissan 3.5hp 4 stroke fuel **** clog

SkipperMD

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Just probably a quick fix, but I'm far from being a mechanic. I took the fuel line off of the fuel tank and of course, fuel comes out. I took the fuel line off on the exit side of the fuel **** and only a drip or two came out before stopping.

Any suggestions on how to clear whatever is stopping the fuel flow at that point?

This is my first 4 stroke and I wasn't aware that it had to be laid down on a certain side, so the oil drained out into the cowling and on the floor. The oil has made the gasket around the bottom of the cowling come loose and I'm not sure how to get it to adhere back in place. Without that gasket, the cowling is just loose on top of the motor and has no seal from water intrusion. My plan is to soak that part of the gasket in some simple green/water mix to dissolve the oil, then hopefully use some type of adhesive to get it to stick back to the cowling. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance!
 

pvanv

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Depending on your model, the filter in the tube may be clogged. Or you could have a damaged/clogged fuel ****. What is your actual model? after cleaning, 3M 5200 should hold the cowl seal on OK. You may also have oil in the carb, intake, and cylinder as well.
 

SkipperMD

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Here's the tag. I took out the filter and blew through it backwards. Now it seems to let the fuel through, but it was late last night when I put everything back together, so will try and crank it today.
 

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SkipperMD

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Depending on your model, the filter in the tube may be clogged. Or you could have a damaged/clogged fuel ****. What is your actual model? after cleaning, 3M 5200 should hold the cowl seal on OK. You may also have oil in the carb, intake, and cylinder as well.

The spark plug seemed to have oil on it, so I put a new one in after flushing some brake cleaner through. What would I need to do to clean out all remaining oil in the fuel system so it will run properly?

Thanks!
 

pvanv

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MFS3.5A. Drain carb to be sure it's not full of oil. Pull a lot. It will start and smoke like crazy. Then you should be OK.
 

Sea Rider

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If that model uses an internal small fuel tank asside from the external 3 gal one, you should clean the internal tank along the fuel ****'s internal mesh filter to guarantee full fuel delivery to carb, EFI whichever.

Happy Boating
 

SkipperMD

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Thanks guys. I'm just taking baby steps here, so hope you can bear with me. I loosened the screw at bottom of carb, but nothing came out at all. The fuel is getting through the hose freely. What would you suggest as the next step to getting it running? Hope to fish Saturday! Haha
 

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pvanv

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Sounds like the float valve is stuck shut. Pull the carb, clean it properly, and free up that valve.
 

Sea Rider

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Loosened the screw at bottom of carb, but nothing came out at all. The fuel is getting through the hose freely.

Assuming the internal fuel tank is being used, have you disconnected the hose that exits the fuel **** to assure that there's plenty of fuel coming out to state the fuel is getting through the hose freely ? Has the carb a built in fuel pump.

Happy Boating
 

SkipperMD

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Soooo.... the carb was totally nasty, but the worst part is the jet. It's stuck in place by thick corrosion and has a large amount of corrosion inside the jet stopping it up. If I remove the jet, it's going to probably destroy it. The local shop doesn't have a replacement jet, so I would like to clean this one if possible. If you were going to try and clean it as good as possible, how would you do it?

Thanks for all the help!
 

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SkipperMD

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Assuming the internal fuel tank is being used, have you disconnected the hose that exits the fuel **** to assure that there's plenty of fuel coming out to state the fuel is getting through the hose freely ? Has the carb a built in fuel pump.

Happy Boating

The carb drain plug was totally clogged with thick gunk, so fuel couldn't have escaped if it had made it that far, which it didn't. When I disconnect the fuel hose at the carb, and turn on the fuel ****, fuel comes out pretty quickly.

This is my first ever try at cleaning a carb, so excuse the apparent stupid things I do or don't do! Main issue right now is how to clean the jet. A question I need to ask is if there is anything on the carb which I should not get carb cleaner on?

Thanks so much!
 

SkipperMD

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[No message]
 

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pvanv

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soooo.... The carb was totally nasty, but the worst part is the jet. It's stuck in place by thick corrosion and has a large amount of corrosion inside the jet stopping it up. If i remove the jet, it's going to probably destroy it. The local shop doesn't have a replacement jet, so i would like to clean this one if possible. If you were going to try and clean it as good as possible, how would you do it?

Thanks for all the help!
3au044680mmain jet #68, f3.5a/b/6b$7.87
 

pvanv

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The carb drain plug was totally clogged with thick gunk, so fuel couldn't have escaped if it had made it that far, which it didn't. When I disconnect the fuel hose at the carb, and turn on the fuel ****, fuel comes out pretty quickly.

This is my first ever try at cleaning a carb, so excuse the apparent stupid things I do or don't do! Main issue right now is how to clean the jet. A question I need to ask is if there is anything on the carb which I should not get carb cleaner on?

Thanks so much!

Completely disassemble carb. Set rubber stuff aside. Soak overnight in carb dip from the auto parts house. Then blow out liberally with generic carb spray. Then reassemble.
 

Sea Rider

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Take advantage to micro polish clean the float's valve seat with a wet cotton swab and toothpaste or a thin sushi stick rolled with cotton. Rotate whichever used 360 º fully in as in pic (1) Repeat the procedure with a new cotton swab if needed till the seat looks shinny pic (2) Will guarantee that the needle won't ever be stuck again, the procedure applies for any carb as well...

Needle Seat Micro Polish  1.JPG

Needle Seat Micro Polish  2.JPG

If can't free the jet to remove it, don't force it too much with a screwdriver, or will end screwing the jet slot, bad music. Let's hope the overnight soak in ral cleaner does the job...

Happy Boating
 

SkipperMD

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Alright guys, I gotta be honest here. This is the FIRST carb I've EVER taken off of ANYTHING. I'm not confident about any part of this process, so the less I have to disassemble, the better. I don't know what carb soak is or what has to be removed before doing something like that. What is ral cleaner? Is there not something that will just dissolve the corrosion in and around the jet?

Please dummy down this process. I need to build a little confidence before taking more and more chances by taking things I know nothing about apart. I realize it's overly simple to you, but if I tried to explain something to you that I consider child's play, you might be hesitant to take risks when you have no idea what you're doing. Know what I mean?

Again, thanks so much for your help and believe me, I'm learning from this. Just hope when I dig into my Nissan 40, which is much more important than this, I can use what I've learned here and build upon it. Can't wait to get done here and get that one running perfect!
 

pvanv

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Carb dip is available at auto parts houses. It will not go after corrosion. You need an acid for that. Or replace the whole carb:
3GV032000MCARBURETOR ASSY, F3.5B$162.60
 

SkipperMD

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So, a quick update... I took the carb to a mechanic I know just to see what he would say about getting the jet out. Of course, he just stuck a screwdriver in there and took it out! Haha I was being timid not knowing how much pressure is too much. After removing that, he looked over the carb and said it's in bad shape. Apparently he could see things I couldn't see, but he proceeded to try to get the float off because the needle valve was totally stuck. Never got the pin out that holds the float in, but he said he's had carbs that were in better shape than mine that he never could get to run just right.

Now, I'm at the point of having to replace the entire thing, so I'm looking for a decent deal. Every penny is precious these days and I haven't had any income in a long time. Once I get the new carb in and get it installed, I'll update to hopefully finish this thread with a relatively good ending.

Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it. Today, going out to drain and clean the fuel tank feeding the Nissan 40 NS40D2. Plan for that is to drain bowls if I can find the drain screws, spray fogging oil in cylinders to help with friction, and get new non-eth fuel in the tank. Sound good?
 
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