Newbie Here w/1965 Johnson 3hp Questions

[noo2ob]

Hi everybody...I'm new here and to outboards in general. I just picked up a 1965 3hp Johnson to power my 11' Coleman Crawdad. Got it for $25! First off, we get it to the lake and she fired right up...good deal...however, the prop just spun freely and wouldn't push the boat..found the "key"(thats what my buddy called it) had broken into pieces. He managed to rig it somehow and it got us moving. We went out about 1/2 mile and did some drifting. When I started her back up, she couldn't decide whether she wanted to run or not...spitting and sputtering, and idle jumping up and down. After a very slow ride at full throttle, we made it back to the dock and put the boat back on the trailer.

My questions are: What is the small brass valve handle on the side of the motor? What is the purpose of the "lean" "rich" switch? How do I check gear oil/lube in the drive? And, any tips on the spitting and sputtering? Thank you in advance, and I'm sorry if these are dumb questions, but this is my first boat motor, other than a few electric trollers I've had. Thanks again!

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Newbie Here w/1965 Johnson 3hp Questions

You picked the best first motor to have.
The small brass valve is to shut off the gas from the tank to the carb.
The fuel mix needs to be pretty heavy on those old 3's. I would mix at 20:1 with TC-W3 2 stroke oil.
There are 2 big slotted screws on the gearcase for the lube. Fill from the bottom hole until it squirts out the top hole.
The Rich/lean knobs adjust the fuel-air mix for the carbs.

 

[JB]

Re: Newbie Here w/1965 Johnson 3hp Questions

I agree with the Whaler, except that I would use a 24:1 mix.

 

[noo2ob]

Re: Newbie Here w/1965 Johnson 3hp Questions

Thanks for the quick replies...I'm guessing that turning the brass valve to the left closes it and right to open?? Also, there is a grease fitting on the back of the shaft near the transom mount...what is this and what kind of grease do I use? The rich/lean knob doesn't seem to make a difference in the running of the engine, regardless of where its positioned. Also, the tag on the motor says to use 50:1 mix, and says you can also use sae30 motor oil... Lastly, does anyone know where to get the "key" that kept the prop from spinning? Can I fabricate my own, or do I need the actual part? Thanks again

 

[SeaKaye12]

Re: Newbie Here w/1965 Johnson 3hp Questions

The Brass Valve: Clockwise turns the gas off.

The Grease Fitting on the transom mount: Use Marine Grease in a grease gun

The Oil: Oil has come a long way since 1965. You could use SAE30 in an emergency...but the proper TC-w3 2-stroke oil available today is far better and should be your choice.

As for the ratio; back in 1965 there was a lot of pressure on the manufacturers to develop engines that would use less oil. Your engine; because of the type of bearings inside....should really have 24:1. In 1965 it was a design that had carried over from the 50's. It was an older design than other motors being developed...and really should have stayed 241:1....but OMC caved to the pressure and lumped it together with other newer designs when they published the oil recommendations. Take the advice here and use 24:1 TC-w3.

If your rich-lean knob doesn't have much of an effect...your carburetor might need some cleaning. That's probably a lot of the reason why you're having quality of running issues.

The "Key" Called a shear-pin. Fabricate one with what you have until you have the opportunity to purchase the real thing. It's designed to save your gears in the event you hit an obstacel. Gears aint cheap

Chuck

 

[SeaKaye12]

Re: Newbie Here w/1965 Johnson 3hp Questions

The other thing you should be aware of is cooling.

Your motor has a rubber impeller-vane pump down below the water-line that pumps water up into the engine...and then spits it out at the back....on the "leg".

That's VERY important and should be checked for proper operation before you run it anymore.

NEVER run your motor out of water; not even for a minute.

Chuck

 

[noo2ob]

Re: Newbie Here w/1965 Johnson 3hp Questions

I will definitely go to the 24:1 ratio..we did the 50:1 with the 2 cycle when we took it out on the water. Is a carb kit still available for this motor? I've only looked on ebay, but the only thing they had for it was one listing for the recoil..which tells me parts are probably pretty scarce. As for the cooling issue, could you please elaborate a bit on where the water should be spitting out from? I know I've seen motors that look like they are(for lack of a better word)"peeing" out the back, but never paid any attention and I don't seem to recall mine doing it. Not running it out of the water is the ONE thing I actually do know ...I remember my father complaining about a burnt up motor for that reason when I was a kid. I really appreciate the help thus far guys...I've already learned quite a bit.

 

[tx1961whaler]

Re: Newbie Here w/1965 Johnson 3hp Questions

All of the normal maintenance parts are available new here at iboats and many other places
Carb kit:
http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfind...&gd_poid=109333&gd_row=3&session_id=595522745

The parts for the 3 hp johnson/evinrude are plentiful because the were made basically unchanged for decades.

The water spits from the small square port on the front of the leg, about midway up.

 

[SeaKaye12]

Re: Newbie Here w/1965 Johnson 3hp Questions

Parts are certainly available. Most all parts. OMC stuff is amazing in that respect.

You will find that in order to order parts....you need not only the year and HP...but also the Model Number. Find it on the transom bracket and then go here:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1965&hp=3

I hope you end up purchasing through iboats because they host this wonderful forum...but I steer you to marine engine dot com because they have the parts diagrams for your motor. A great resource and they go way back to the 50's......

Your motor will not "PEE" like most. Look about half way down the leg...and in the middle there you will find a series of holes. Water sort of mists out of there.

I always mention not eunning motors out of water because most people know about the over-heating aspect of it....but many do not realize that just a few seconds of running dry can ruin the impeller; long before anything actually overheats.

Chuck