New (to me) boat

Coldtrain_1

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Nov 19, 2009
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I recently purchased a1979 Eldocraft 1520 Pro from a co-worker. The boat is a 1542, but it is rated for a 55hp motor. It currently had a 1981 Johnson 50hp on it. I have a couple of questions regarding this setup. The first is that I have stripped the boat completely. It has a front and rear deck, a bench seat/livewell, and side console. I plan on replacing the old foam with pink board. I am considering overlaying the aluminum floor with plywood and carpet to add weight to help prevent any possible porpoising. Is this a wise idea? Also, what kind of speed can I expect out of this setup? Thanks for any help and advice.
 

jbcurt00

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I recently purchased a1979 Eldocraft 1520 Pro from a co-worker. The boat is a 1542
1520 or 1542?

Porpoising should be addressed by weight distribution of stuff thats going in the boat, not by needlessly adding un needed weight EXCEPT during testing to determine good distribution.

Its an aluminum boat, correct?

What does the boat weigh, and what prop is on the 50?
 

Coldtrain_1

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Nov 19, 2009
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The Model is a 1520 (20" sides) but it actually has a 43" bottom. It is an aluminum boat, the specs on here says it has a dry weight of 385 pounds, and the prop is a 11.75 x 17 aluminum prop.
 

roffey

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Nov 22, 2012
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ill add my two cents here, the pink board is not good for boats you can get two part foam. You will need marine grade plywood and carpeting is not great as it will hold moisture, non slip paint is better and easer to clean. I would not even guess on speed. As usual please correct me if I'm wrong.
 

Frank Acampora

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Don't fix something that 'aint broke. FIRST run the boat with all your equipment. THEN, if you have a porpoising problem, correct it.
 

64osby

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ill add my two cents here, the pink board is not good for boats you can get two part foam.

Pour in foam and aluminum hulls are not a great combination. The two part foam can trap moisture and cause the hull to corrode. Sheet foam is the most used product on older boats.
 

roffey

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I did not know. I thought pour in foam was the way to go, I stand corrected.
 

Coldtrain_1

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Nov 19, 2009
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Here are some pics that I just took. I forgot to take any before pics. There were two pods on each side in the back and a bench seat/livewell in front of that. I plan on putting the floor back in, decking the front and making some storage up front as well. In the back, I am going to replace the pods and deck over that. In between the pods will be the fuel tank(s). I am struggling with what to do with the batteries. That's a pretty big motor on the back of a fairly light boat, that is why I am considering putting the batteries up front under the deck.
 

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bonz_d

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Welcome Coldtrain1 to the forum.

I'd seen your post on this boat on the other site as well. You will get a lot of good advise from both sites with a different twist from both.

1st off do you still have a capacity plate in this hull? If so what is the max hp. this is rated at? With the HP. you have available on this boat weight won't be a big a factor as would the same size boat with a smaller engine.

The pods you mention above were they originally filled with floatation foam? Was there foam in the bench seat with the live-well?

I know on the other site you will be seeing members advocating using sheet aluminum on the floor. I understand their reasoning but do not agree with it and will explain my reasoning if you like.

Keeping the correct amount of floatation foam in the boat is an important factor and keep in mind the purpose of the foam. It's not there to just keep the boat from sinking. It is also supposed to keep the boat level in the case that it becomes swamped. It's easier and safer to stay in a swamped boat that is staying level than it is to stay with a boat that has capsized.

Next I would suggest that if/when building a deck or structure to use angle aluminum over 2X2 wood framing.
 

Coldtrain_1

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Nov 19, 2009
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1st off do you still have a capacity plate in this hull? If so what is the max hp. this is rated at? With the HP. you have available on this boat weight won't be a big a factor as would the same size boat with a smaller engine.

*** The capacity plate is still attached, however just about the only thing I can make out is the boat model number. I have been searching for info to have another plate made, but my searches have turned up no results. From the model number, iboat specs says the boat is rated for a 55hp motor.


The pods you mention above were they originally filled with floatation foam? Was there foam in the bench seat with the live-well?

*** There was foam in the two pods, but not in the livewell. The livewell appears to be factory and is used as the seat for the console.



I know on the other site you will be seeing members advocating using sheet aluminum on the floor. I understand their reasoning but do not agree with it and will explain my reasoning if you like.

***Please explain your reasoning. There was already an existing aluminum floor in there that I was going to clean up and reuse, but I am interested in your thoughts.

Keeping the correct amount of floatation foam in the boat is an important factor and keep in mind the purpose of the foam. It's not there to just keep the boat from sinking. It is also supposed to keep the boat level in the case that it becomes swamped. It's easier and safer to stay in a swamped boat that is staying level than it is to stay with a boat that has capsized.

***I plan on putting pink board in the floor and in the sides. I havent made my mind up yet if I want to fill the pods up with the board as well, or use them as storage. According to my calculations, 4 boards will give me 720 lbs of lift. Two boards will be in the floor and sides. Hopefully I can spread out two more boards and still have room for storage.


Next I would suggest that if/when building a deck or structure to use angle aluminum over 2X2 wood framing.
*** Thanks for the advice.
 

bonz_d

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Apr 22, 2008
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Coldtrain sounds like you've a good plan ahead of you. That thing should flat out fly with a 50hp on it. The Alumacraft in my signature has a 50hp Johnson on it and I believe it's heavier than your hull will be and it flies pretty good.

If you already have the aluminum for the floor decking then by all means reuse it.

After seeing the guys on the other site using it and recommending it I did a bit of a search on the subject and this is what I came up with. Most there recommend using .100" thick sheet or better. At least in my area a 4X8' sheet runs just over $100.00 while a sheet of 1/2" ACX ply is only about $35.00. The weight savings between the two materials is only about 5 lbs. so I just don't see were the added cost of $65.00 is worth it to save just 5 lbs. Then in the construction of those flat bottom Jon's the frame ribs are much closer together and then that space usually gets filled with flat foam board so in that case a person could actually use 3/8" ply and still be stiff enough to support a person. That would reduce the cost of the plywood about $5.00 and weight is about equal to that of the aluminum sheet.

Sure the use of aluminum sheet is a one and done but I feel that the plywood if properly sealed and maintained will last 25 to 30 years which is long past the time I will ever own a boat. Again, this is just my personal opinion and reasoning for not using aluminum sheet. I just don't see the cost benefit.

As to the foam question this is something you're going to have to ask yourself. The Sea Nymph that I'm working on now also had floatation boxes in the stern and the foam was wet and removed. This boat too doesn't have a lot of storage space and I though of leaving it empty to use as storage and then decided against it. Reason being that I do a lot of early and late season fishing. Meaning right up to ice or right after ice-out in the spring when the water temps are just above freezing. The thought of an accident and then being in that cold of water scares the devil out of me. As I say it's much safer to stay with a swamped boat than to be in the water with just a life jacket on. Hypothermia sets in quick in those temps. So it really is your call as to what you should do.

I will keep following both of your posts on this build as it looks like an interesting project.
 
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