Re: New to boating - Need help please
Bratt..... Chryslers are not my line of expertise but various (general) specifications would apply to any outboard.... and so I'll jump in here for a moment.<br /><br />First, check the compression which on any engine should be in the range of approximately 100+ psi and "even" on all cylinders.<br /><br />Check the plugs carefully for traces of water which might indicate a head gasket starting to fail. Also check to make sure that you are using the correct s/plug with the correct gap setting for that particular engine.<br /><br />Next, check the spark (with the s/plugs out). Standard ignition should have a spark that would jump a 1/4" gap on all cylinders with a strong blue flame. Electronic ignition (solid state) should jump a 7/16" gap.<br /><br />With the engine NOT running, spin the prop by hand and put the engine into forward gear (spinning the prop allows the shifter dog to engage the forward gear to avoid a shift mismatch so to speak). Move the throttle lever to the full throttle position, then look directly inside of the carburetor throat. The throttle butterfly should be perfectly horizontal... the full throttle position. If not, find out why.<br /><br />If all of the above are as they should be, two possibilities are possible.<br /><br />1 - Various engines have their horsepower rated at the powerhead, others at the propeller shaft. If yours is the former, by the time the power is trasfered to the propeller shaft, the horsepower of 45hp would be diminished somewhat. Should this be the case, the cure to your problem would be to purchase a propeller with less pitch which would increase the engines torque at the prop. This would result in a increase of propeller thrust which would be needed to pull a skier out of the hole..... but watch the top end rpm as it might be possible to exceed the rated limit.<br /><br />2 - The carburetor is somewhat clogged, fouled, gummed up. This is the usual cause of a power loss problem.... the most common. The cure would be to remove the carb, clean and rebuilt it. I don't know what type carburetor your engine has, single or dual adjustable needle valves, or all fixed jets, however I'll list the adjustment procedure of the first two as follows:<br /><br />(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)<br /><br />Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.<br /><br />Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.<br /> <br />Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting. <br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.<br />-------------------------------------------------- <br />(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs) <br /><br />Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns. <br /><br />Setting the high and low needle valves properly: <br /><br />NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.<br /><br />(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting. <br /><br />(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting. <br /><br />When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
