New (old) Mercury (Force) 90 hp spare engine, how to best store for future use?

[Redbarron%%]

I bought a Regal Rush (1994) with a 90 hp sport jet engine and pump for spares for my Hobie Jet Fisherman I am looking for the best advice on how to best preserve the engine in longtime storage.
The engine has good compression, but I have not tried to start it since the ignition plate and parts are removed.
I bought a set of Mercury CDM modules along with a 3 cylinder harness to upgrade to the electrics of late model Mercury engines. I also got the harness and mounting plate from a 70 hP mercury and may install those as well.The engine already has a red stator so that will work with the new system. I have already made this mod to my 90 in the boat and it world well and should be more reliable.
The "new" engine is a 1994 with the choke type carbs and the vent taps have corroded off. I doubt that I will put the effort into rebuilding these, but I might change my mind.
I am torn between getting the engine running in the boat and the pulling it or just inspecting it and storing for parts later.
The reason for not being driven to run it in the boat and in the water is the impeller is damaged and threaded.
If it were a splined impeller I would have it repaired as the Hobie has the splined impeller.
Attached is a picture of the CDM modules, harness and plate.

 

[Scott Danforth]

pull the plugs, hose down the bores with oil
spray the whole motor with WD40

store upright in a dry area

 

[roscoe]

A 94 should not have choke.
Should have enrichment solenoid.

 

[Redbarron%%]

A 94 should not have choke.
Should have enrichment solenoid.

On these old boats engines change.
But early 94's had the chokes and threaded impellers.
That being said my 1995 Hobie has the enrichment valve, splined impeller, and a 1993 motor ( different recirc system)
Of course as usual the serial number and model tag is missing.
These things get changed more than underware.
That being said I think that once you get reliable electrical parts on them they are pretty reliable and hold up pretty well.
The CDM setup is simpler, easier to troubleshoot and more reliable than the old CDI system with switch boxes and separate coils with associated wiring.
Anybody want a switch box or two with adapter bars? Coils available too.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Fogging oil.
Drain or clean the carbs.
Any silicone spray for the outside.

 

[Redbarron%%]

Thanks for the input.
I can turn the motor with the starter with the carbs off to fog ans also to do a compression check before I pack it away.
I also plan to install the CDM ignition and test and time at cranking speed.
I was worried that there was rust in the cylinders, but the hand turning was very smooth and compression feels very good turning by hand,
Since they are not making any more parts and I really like the Hobie I decided to get some spare parts while they can be had.
I think the reliability problems with the Force is mostly in the old CDI with the switch boxes and old black coil with the banjo work wiring.
The CDMs really clean up the wiring and will work with the existing trigger coil and old flywheel.
I have a question on the flywheel and the magnetic break that triggers the ignition. Looking at the drawings I see that tt Bhe break that triggers the coil is in two places one 180 degrees opposite the firing point of the cylinder. This means that the coils fire twice per rev, once to fire the compressed charge and once to fire during the exhaust stroke a BDC more or less. Is this correct? If so one would have to set an inductive tach to tow cylinder to read correctly?
Thanks,