New Engine options

W

Wallup

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I have a 1990 Chaparral Villain II Eliminator with a 350 merc. I blew the engine at the beginning of summer and have been saving up ever since. I'm hoping to get it fixed this winter and I was wanting to know If I can buy a new Mercrusier engine only or would I also have to replace the outdrive with a newer engine. <br /><br />My other option is a remanufactured or rebuilt 350. I haven't pulled my engine yet and I'm trying to find out the least expensive way to fix my boat. I'm still young and its a beater and I'll probably upgrade in several years I just miss being on the water and don't want to go through the next couple summers without my boat. <br /><br />Would it be less expensive to purchase new, remanufactured or have someone tear mine down and fix? <br /><br />My outdrive is in good condition but I also need to relace the gimbal bearing and possibly manifolds. <br /><br />Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
QC

QC

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Re: New Engine options

Define blew the engine? i.e. the extent of damage will determine the options you that can consider. Hole in the block, broken crank etc.? <br /><br />You should not have to change your drive for any of the options.
 
W

Wallup

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Re: New Engine options

I caught some air in the morning and it sounded different when I landed but barely noticable. 6 hours later coming back into the cove at 63 mph rattling started and then a pop. Then it extremely quickly turned into a loud knock. I throttled back the engine and cut it off. This all happened in about 30 seconds. I was towed to my dock about 200 yards away where I checked the oil and none was present. I filled it with 40 wt and cranked it up and it sounded like it didn't want to idle meanwhile there was also a repetitive knock.<br /><br />I haven't done anything since.
 
K

KM2

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Oct 15, 2003
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Re: New Engine options

I'm certianly not a expert and I agree you need to now the extent of the problem before the real experts at iboats can help. A used 350 block and all the parts form your blown motor would get you back on the water cheap compared to something new.
 
QC

QC

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Re: New Engine options

Yeah, I am thinking a long block (complete engine except no fuel sytsem and no exhaust manifolds) as it probably dropped a valve. Depending on how much it banged around (sounds like maybe a lot) then you may be able to get away with a low cost rebuild.<br /><br />I have no idea about these guys, but here are a couple of links just to get you some ideas.<br /><br /> http://www.1800runsnew.com/recon.htm <br /><br /> http://www.1800runsnew.com/gm04.htm
 
V

vipzach

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Re: New Engine options

Chances are pretty good that you just need the lower half of your motor. If you are mechanically inclined you could pull the motor and take it to a shop, have them check it and replace what needs fixin.<br />Then have the heads checked, inspect your risers/manifolds and replace if needed. <br />There are lots of places on the net to buy short or long blocks for very reasinable prices. That would be much cheaper than buying a new motor from mercruiser.
 
W

Wallup

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Re: New Engine options

Thanks for the input guys.<br /><br />I just went to a local mechanics shop on my lunch hour and talked to him about it. He was saying in my situation best bet is getting a crate motor from GM and using that. The only drawback being GM won't warranty the motor once they've found out its in a boat.<br /><br />Does GM make a marine crate motor?<br /><br />I mentioned Jasper and he said that he had toured thier facility and they were state of the art but when problems have arised they didn't back there product. <br /><br />He advised me to stay away from the internet b/c most of the people offering motors don't know what they have. (i.e. problems)<br /><br />Has anyone purchased a crate motor online? How did it go?
 
T

tootoot

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Sep 11, 2005
Messages
132
Re: New Engine options

Hey, I got a 302 longblock on line from S&S Engine Remanufactures out of Seattle Washington and it seems fine. Call Andy at 1-800-942-7800. 1300 with the cam I wanted.
 
Bondo

Bondo

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70,738
Re: New Engine options

It doesn't sound like you've got much left to Rebuild,........<br /><br />A GM Long Block Crate motor for a 1990 Truck would be a Great replacement,.......<br />Just use all the Hardware from the Broken Block...........
 
G

--GQ--

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Re: New Engine options

Wallup a new engine is about $3,000. I'm sure you can scrape half of it under your couch seat coushins. Get a new engine. The new Metal smell is very intoxicating.
 
Bondo

Bondo

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Re: New Engine options

The GM Crate motor I spoke of are available for Less than 1/2 the figure that GQ states......<br />Brand New.......
 
W

Wallup

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Re: New Engine options

Thanks Bondo,<br /><br />"Not much left to rebuild" thats what the mechanic said too. No oil was the worst thing I could do.<br /><br />The GM Crate motor you speak of is just a truck motor and the only thing I would need to do is change the plugs to brass? The manifolds will just hook up to it?<br /><br />It would have to be a 1990 truck? The mechanic also informed me that a used truck motor wouldn't be able to handle the rpms and would blow some sort of o-rings. I can't remember exactly what type.<br /><br />Can I buy new 1990 truck crate motor?
 
Silvertip

Silvertip

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Sep 22, 2003
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28,770
Re: New Engine options

Golly you folks are pessimists! Running without oil probably toasted the rod and main bearings but unless things got seriously out of hand such as severe overheating and warping, that engine is very likely salvageable and for considerably less than $3000. How much less depends on how much mechanical knowledge you have and how much of the work you want to do yourself. The least I would do is pull the engine since it has to come out anyway, buy a $50 engine stand, pull the pan and heads to see what you have. Mark bearing caps with cylinder number so things can go back into the proper holes. Crank journals can be turned and in many cases built up and returned to original specs. I've seen rod caps stuck to the crank and still be rebuilt. Mic the bores, check the pistons for damage and out of round. If they are ok clean them up and install a new set of rings. Deglaze the bores if undamaged. A shop can check the heads and rebuild those without breaking the bank. Consider a new cam and set of lifters and by all means install a new oil pump and timing gearset. Get the help of a gearhead friend to help you reassemble the engine. If you simply do a short block, you still need to have the heads done. Be sure you have a service manual for the engine and study it thoroughly before starting. Lastly -- don't ever leave the dock without checking the oil -- but after this event, you probably won't.
 
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