need help with stator size

[bbalcer]

does anyone know if the 18-5780 stator is the 9 amp or 16 amp variety (listed on iboats). I'm replacing the stator on my motor (original part #398-9710A33 i think it is the 16 amp) and found that some sites say the motor should have a 9-amp (sieler marine) and some say it should have an 16 amp (sierra marine). and even others such as iboats list the 18-5870 with no current rating. the motor is a 1996 mariner 115 elpto s/ng348734. Also is it more common for a bad stator to take a regulator/rectifier with it or vice versa? thanks.

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: need help with stator size

I don't have the specs so I can't answer all your questions, but here's some info fer ya that should help...<br /><br />The original black stators are no longer available. They were replaced with Red stators sometime in 1996. So your 1996 could have either. The black ones have 9 amp alternators and the red ones have 16. You can use a black stator with the larger 16 amp regulator, but not vice-versa. So if you have a black stator, you need a new regulator if you get the 16 amp Sierra.<br /><br />It's rare for either part to damage the other. The black stators had sharp edges from the laminating process that wore into the windings. Rapair takes those, smooths the edges, and rewinds them. Sierra parts are not rebuilds to the best of my knowledge. But in either case, that's the cause of many if not most black stator failures. Voltage regulators mostly go bad due to loose or corroded battery connections, or from the battery being connected backwards even for a split-second. So odds are that you have two related parts that failed for different reasons.

 

[bbalcer]

Re: need help with stator size

Thanks willy. After removing stator, trigger, and regulator I found that both the stator and regulator fail the resistance checks pretty miserably. Would a motor run fine with these readings being bad but eventually not start after one of the devices reaches a certain point. Or should the performance degrade over time? I don't have a peak voltage tester so if I replace the stator and VRR, they shouldn't be affected by a bad switchbox should they? I'd hate to buy a new part and have it destroyed by something else.

 

[KCLOST]

Re: need help with stator size

They won't be affected by a bad switchbox...

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: need help with stator size

The ignition system is separate from the electrical system. If the charging capacity goes down the toilet, the motor will still run just fine. But eventually the battery will get too weak to start the motor again. The ignition system won't draw from the battery, but other systems on your boat will. The only places the ignition and electrical system paths cross is at the ignition switch and the stator. But even then the circuits inside of those components is separate. Finally, there is no way I know of that a bad switchbox can take out a stator, especially the alternator side.<br /><br />Addendum: I see what you're asking, "If I replace two, should I replace all three?". No.

 

[bbalcer]

Re: need help with stator size

I guess this may lead me down a different path. Although the VRR and Stator ohmed bad, the problem of the motor not turning over could be different altogether. The starter is spinning the motor fine (ergo a good battery), the motor just won't fire. The logical choice would be too weak of a spark, since the plugs are fouled after trying to start a few times. Thus an ignition problem... any thoughts?

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: need help with stator size

Could be water in the gas. Other things too. Right now you have to confirm whether you have spark or not. And it could spark but still be weak. Ohms the red and blue wires according to the procedures in the manual. Those are the wires that provide the electricity for the spark. The yellow ones are for charging the battery.

 

[bbalcer]

Re: need help with stator size

I'm hoping that is the problem. I ohmed the red and blue and the resistance between them is: low speed 1148.0 (should be 3250-3650) and high speed 22.5 (should be 75-90). The trigger was ohmed at 820 on both sides (SELOC -- 1200-1400). I'm not sure of the accuracy of the values of the SELOC manual. I checked 2 brand new VRRs at a dealer and they both tested the same, both out of tolerance according to manual(actually showed the diode didn't have enough resistance in the good direction). I'm just looking at a percentage difference from SELOC..the trigger is okay for me, plus those are pretty sturdy from what I've found. The stator is about 50% low so I'm replacing it on faith that it is in fact bad and causing too weak of a signal. As an afterthought, does the kill switch inhibit all spark or just lower the discharge sufficiently to prohibit ignition?

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: need help with stator size

I would think the stator was good with those readings. Even though one is out of range, there is continuity there. When they fail, one usually won't show any continuity.<br /><br />The kill wire grounds out the power. Find the black wire with a yellow line. That's usually the first and easiest thing to check in a no spark situation. You should have spark with it disconnected. If not, you can remove the kill circuit from the list of possibilities.

 

[bbalcer]

Re: need help with stator size

update...fuel primer bulb is tango uniform. tried with spare tank and motor fired after getting fuel through all the carbs. what's the chances the fuel bulb goes the same time the VRR is replaced.