Need help rigging an etec

Patfromny

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Hi guys, I recently purchased an 05 etec E40DPLSOR and am having it installed. I bought the engine out of necessity, my old 78 35 hp was on it's last legs. The new engine was bare save the battery cable wrapped around the cowl. I am trying to figure out what parts I will need to install the new engine so I might save money finding some pieces cheap online. The marina doesn't care if I buy half the parts as long as I do so in a timely fashion. I do not want to keep calling the marina with questions because they are being understanding enough with me trying to save money online. My questions are as follows


1. Do I need two control cables or one? And are they etec specific or are the 79 thru present cables correct

2. Does the control box come with a wiring harness? I have searched online and can only find an engine wiring harness. What plugs into the control box? Where does the system check/warning gauge plug in?

3. The marina owner said I needed a tach but the mechanic said I did not. I have very limited dash space so the no tach answer would be a happy one for me.

4. Do I need a fuse box now? I presently have in line fuses with a wire block under the dash.

5. Will a stainless prop make a difference on this small an engine?

6. Anything else I'm forgetting?

Thanks in advance guys, any guidance will be appreciated.
 

Crosbyman

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parts and hardware is one thing but....

..did you forget to have the EMM log dumped & evaluated before purchasing such a sophisticated engine ....

why not get yourself a engine manual​
 
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jakedaawg

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Do you need a side mount controller ir a binnacle?

Cables are cables. You need two of the proper length.

You need a wiring harness and a warning horn.

At a minimum you need a system check guage. You can get them stand alone or combined in a tach.

If youre getting binnacle controls there is a key switch assembly that the wire garness plugs into. It comes with the warning horn.

Sometimes it is worth buying from the shop installing the stuff. They may be raising the labor time because they are not getting the 40% on parts. I know i would and do with customer supplied parts.
 

Patfromny

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A Manual is on the list. I was assured that this ran well and was running on another boat last season. It is a marina my family has been dealing with for 40+ years On a very small lake. The price I paid was for it to be in solid running form. That being said, it was an almost impulse buy because of the price and I can almost rebuild the whole thing without getting upside down on it. Not that I want to, but it was super cheap. They sold it to me for what they paid as a trade in. My family has been camping there for around 70 years and they threw me a bone. I even worked several summers for them while growing up. The boat it is going on was purchased from them in 78 and I have just about fully restored it. They have gotten a huge kick out of my yearly progress and offered the engine cheap when they learned my old one was scrap.

Thanks for the advice Crosbyman, I am a total babe in the woods regarding this engine. As you have pointed out, i have already made a potentially grave mistake. My 78 was a bit more simplistic. I guess I can ask them to do this log dump when it is installed and find out things like hours on the motor, etc. Anything I should be looking for? Honestly, my motor is junk, etec for sale cheap, I trust the seller, sold. Not much thought went into it....could be the start of a classic disaster story...I'll have to pray it is just an honest to goodness nice gesture from people I have grown up with.
 

Patfromny

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Thanks Jakedaawg, the shop will probably buy everything as I can't seem to find much. I need a side mount controller with tilt switch. The mechanic is hunting down what they have in Stock and then giving me a call. I figured on the system check gauge and warning horn to go where my present key switch is on the dash and get a controller with a key in it. The mechanic didn't seem to like the tach/system check combo. He said the tach stops working often on them. Any thoughts? Thanks again
 

jakedaawg

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I like the stand alone system check guage. I run into the opposite where as the sys check guage goes bad.
 

jakedaawg

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If you keep the key on the dash the new one comes with the horn. If you buy a new side mount the horn is in it.
 

Crosbyman

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No Title

my tach/system idiot lamps on my 2005 75 hp etec has been working 11 years no issues...much like the engine itself !

you can post the log print out on the ETEC owners site and have the ETEC experts comment it to reassure you.

EMM temperature limits, bad injector codes, RPM limits, engine hours etc... can be looked at. as well as software revision level which may or may not need updates.

I have seen comments of ETEC engines still going strong after 3000 hours in commercial applications... me I have about 400 after 11 years with 40Hrs/Year average !

your 60 is probably in great shape if treated well (oil changes, water pump, stabilized fuel, xd-100 oil, winterized properly where need be, you know... the usual stuff

my Kijiji puchased $50 kicker from 1966 works like a charm also !
 

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jakedaawg

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Talk to your mechanic about the oil setting. I reccomend to my folks that we set it as a comercial. This means it uses as much oil as.possible. you need to change plugs more often but oil is good in my humble opinion.
 

Patfromny

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Thanks guys. I wanted the controller with the key in it because it would solve a few problems. My dash is about the size of the side of a mailbox box but with the ignition switch, bilge and light switches, the speedo, and the steering wheel stuck on it. Putting the key into the controller would open up space on the dash for the gauge and save me the cost of buying a new switch. My switch is wearing out and can be finicky at times. It might just be the key that is wearing but I would have to bring the old key to a locksmith to be stamp cut in order to find out which part is worn. The duplicator machines will just produce the same exact, potentially worn key. If I had to put a tach on the dash, the only place for it would be under the wheel and it would be obscured by the wheel. It would be there if needed but predominantly hidden.

I will follow your advice Crosby and post on the etec owners page. I will know instantly if I am a champ or a chump but I would rather know. The engine is more than likely a low hour deal. My lake is always empty. If there are 5 boats out at the same time that is alot. I might have gotten one of the ones that's always out but odds are in my favor for now since 2 of the 5 are usually ours, lol. BTW, I have a 69 version of your kicker 9.5 in my basement that runs like a top. Was bought new from this marina by my grandfather. Great engines those 9.5's.

Jakedaawg, you have solidified my thoughts on going with the stand alone. No offense Crosbyman but you are talking about one gauge where Jake and my mechanic are talking about several. No room at the Inn anyway so gauge alone it is. I would also like to thank you for the oil suggestion. I too believe that oil is good. Plugs are cheaper than bearings. Lol

Why can't I find the boat side of the wiring harness anywhere? What is it called. I type in wiring harness and get the engine harness. If nothing else I would like to compare prices with my mechanic and see if I can possibly save money here or there. I agree with you Jake about the additional labor cost. If the part is defective you have to install twice and wait for me to replace. I just want to keep this as low budget as possible and I don't know if they search for good prices or just buy from one vendor.

Would you guys recommend a fuse box over in line fuses? Once again a space factor on this little 16 ft boat but will find the space if it is the right way to do it.
 

Patfromny

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​here is a pick of the dash. Kinda tiny. The speedo belongs on the left above the NORDIC 16 tag and if you zoom in, you can see the dark outline of where it goes. It pretty much takes up that whole side. Now you can see why I say I have no room!!!


 

Patfromny

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Well, the engine is on and the mechanic got me some good prices on all needed rigging items. He found an older but new controller with trim switch and key, and a used harness. He was slightly high on the cables and sys. Check gauge but how cheap can i really be hear. I just had him get everything. They aren't in any rush it seems and I guess it doesn't really matter since I will not be back up to the lake until mid to late august. My brother was up last weekend and took some pics. The engine just looks right. He says it looks 95 percent done with the hold up being the sys. Gauge. I would bet it has come in by now and the boat should be real close to water testing and propping. Thanks for the advice guys, I'll keep you posted when I hear more

 

Patfromny

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The boat has been tested and he said It went well. I am a bit concerned. I sent him a 13.5 x15 prop that we had laying around. It was brand new, long story. That prop only spun the motor at 4900 so he put the prop that came on the engine on. It got the RPM's into the 5400 to 5600 range and he called it done. My problem is he said he didn't look at the MPH. The prop that came with the engine is a 13 7/8 x13. It is called a Rubix pontoon prop made by evinrude. My concern is that the prop diameter is, in my opinion way to big. I am concerned that it will rob some top speed from the boat. I was wondering, if I buy a smaller diameter prop with the same pitch if RPM's would be affected? Anyone have any thoughts. As I said earlier, I don't have a tach so I don't want to over rev this thing.
 

jakedaawg

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A smaller diameter with same pitch will increase RPM.

A smaller Diameter with corresponding pitch increase will maintain RPM, possibly increase top speed, and negatively effect hole shot and ability to get on plane. This is, of course, incremental. Little changes give little results, large changes many times fail.

Keep in mind that many times you only get 1-2 MPH from any adjustments you make. I don't know many people who have the "finely tuned racers butt" that can tell the difference between 41 and 42 MPH without looking at a gauge. Many claim they can but I believe they are fooling themselves.
 

Patfromny

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Thanks once again Jakedaawg. I am super afraid to do this without a tach. Especially with the large prop being right in the sweet spot rpm wise. I guess it can seem pretty funny, chasing a mile an hour or two. In the 30 mph range I'm going to be living in, a mile an hour makes a difference. To me at least. I will be super disappointed if I don't get at least 30 out of this new setup. My old broken down super tired 35 would pull me along at 25-26 so I hope I'm not doing all this for less than 30. I think that as long as this doesn't cost me a ton in props that I am going to chase that mile an hour or so.
 

jakedaawg

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You absolutely need an accrurate tach. One on the dash does not count!!!

With etecs i use my laptop and the software. I do not know of any other way to get a true tach reading with them. I dont believe therebis enough room to get an inductive pick up on the wire to run a shop tach.
 

Patfromny

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Ok. That is a good point. One I wouldn't have known. I would have figured a dash tach was good. I guess I will either see what I can beg, borrow, and steal prop wise and then beg the lake mechanic to spend some time with me using his laptop. The other option is to drag the boat to a large local evinrude dealer about a half hour away and pay him to prop it for me. The latter sounds like the smart choice I think. Thank you for the suggestion. Its nice to have people on this site that will tell it to you straight. Not just give you an answer they think you are looking for or the dreaded, "that's good enough" repsonse. Not too many people on here like that thankfully. I tell my helpers that good enough is where I start, not where I finish a project. Good enough means that you can see room for improvement. So why not take the extra time to get it as good as you can. It shows in the end. Appreciate all the advice thus far. I'll keep you in the loop.
 
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