If I am using marine terms you don't understand, just google the word and look for marine applications in your answer.
Looks like a 1971 55 HP Chrysler I bought new. Very simple, straight forward 2 cycle (1 part gas to 50 parts TC-W3 outboard oil in today's product availability marine engine oil), single carb, twin cylinder, engine. If you have a hard time finding information on the engine the "Force" badge was a later edition when Chrysler sold out boats and motors.
When finished with your project, that 55, with a couple of folks and gear, should make that boat go as fast as you can stay in the seat......in anything but pretty calm water. Check in here for great information on how to get your engine cleaned up prior to attempting to get it started and running. Things you "just need to do" initially on engines that have been sitting and/or new purchases with no knowledge of prior attention.
I had a 1960 vintage 13' Taylor craft, very similar boat to yours...minus the fins, I bought it used back in about 1963 or 4....remember the date as there was an event in my life happening at the time and it is easily compared. Had a 22 HP Scott Atwater pushing it...obviously wouldn't do what your 55 will do. It had a wide flared bow.....designed to take on good sized waves head on and when the bow buried in a wave the water shot to the side, covered deck with windshield, helm where yours is, 2 seats, as yours.
As you will notice there is no flotation material in the boat, and you probably won't find a BIA certification tag....too early. On my boat and an MFG brand boat I was going to buy of the same vintage, the deck is (supposed to be) sealed to the hull creating an air chamber that was supposed to keep the boat floating incase of an unexpected serious problem.
The construction of the boat is such that you have some stringers (wood) running the length of the which supports the deck, upon which plywood is attached and all fiberglassed in place. Some boats have a drain plug at the transom that is recessed below the deck in a little well right there, under the splash well.....the area just in front of the engine designed to keep following wake/seas from entering the boat.
On those you can get an idea of the thickness of the stringers and there may be drain holes cut into the supports allowing any water trapped under the deck to exit the drain plug. Others have no such drain and any water working it's way between the deck and hull interface....around the edges of the deck, gets trapped inside and stays there......bad news, requiring the deck and stringers to be replaced.
My Taylor craft had no such area at the transom. The drain plug was just above the flat deck but it did have a small screw, accessible from outside the boat in the lower transom for draining that area. It didn't appear from inside the boat that it leaked, but it did as I was constantly draining water from it on just about every outing.
If that boat were mine, I would think seriously about a new deck and possibly stringers to be part of my renewal. Down in the restoration section of this site you can get lots of ideas and pictures on how and what to do to get at and solve any problems.
On the gel coat making up the outer hull and fore deck surface, I would sand, clean, and apply a marine enamel over it. You aren't going to get what you have to shine up like you sometimes can do with automotive paint on a car with some rubbing compound and a buffer pad. BTDT
You are not going to complete this task overnight. Pace your work and work the project in pieces making for intermediate conclusions that you can achieve. The success in completing each step gives you confidence and motivation to continue on to the next phase. It will take time, effort, and money. A good motivating point is seeing that others have done what you are attempting and have overcome all the difficulties resulting in the beautiful restoration that they show you......which can be yours too!!!
