Re: Need help doing a re-wire
Originally posted by Lee Gisvold:<br /> Make sure that you use Anti Oxident grease on all your connections, I swear by it. It helps tremendously with retarding corrosion. I get mine at Menards, or any automotive store.<br /><br />lee
Good to see someone else recommend di-electric grease. I never make a connection exposed ot the elements without it.<br /><br />As for the crimper, ABSOLUTELY. You need the proper equipment for the job. <br /><br />As for heatshrinking, get a heat gun. Any connection left bare or having any exposed area needs to be sealed. Cut a piece of heat shrink tubing long enough to cover the unio and extend 1/2-3/4" on each side up the insulaiton. Slide it up one side of wire, make the connection and slide the tubing over the connection, centering it. Then hea *** with a heat gun. I discourage the
BIC lighter idea. Flame tends to scorch and burn the tubing if you aren't VERY careful. A heat gun at ACE Hardware is about $20-30. A small investment for a rpoject such as yours.<br /><br />And finally, find out exactly why your mechanic says you need a re-wire as opposed to a repair of the existing wiring. I am a mechanic and I just opened my own shop. From what you have described so far, he has a boat payment he needs you to make for him. But he may have a legitimate reason, you need to find out.<br /><br />If you tackle this on your own, get the proper tools. If you look around you can find them for a reasonable cost. Buy the proper crimpers, get a heat gun, and use di-electric or "Tune-up" grease for all termination connections to protect them from corrosion.
DO IT RIGHT, NOW, and you won't have to do it again. Cut corners, and
YOU WILL PAY[/], and pay, and pay.<br /><br />I have to add this. Realgun, and others, notice I did NOT recommend soldering, or dissuade crimping. That is not an issue to bring up here, it won't help sunpacman.