Need help deciphering Merc's code

[LORDY611]

OK, be gentle with me. I've been a Johnson guy forever but now have my first Merc. On my various Johnsons, there was a very understandable code stamped on the prop for size and pitch: 10-1/2 x 14 or similar. Now, I'm trying to see if the prop on my '96 4cyl. 2 stroke Merc is right for the boat. The boat came with a 30 Johnson, so this is not what came from the dealer.
For what it's worth, the boat is a 16' Lund. I dont yet have a tach or speedo, but plan on getting a Tiny Tach, and do have a GPS.

I also dont understand why changing to a SS prop would improve performance over an aluminum one of the same specs.

Hoping some of you Mercury veterans or boat store guys can tell me what this prop is. Also, standard rotation??
Click on pic to enlarge. Thanks in advance

 

[rndn]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

I come up with a 10 3/8 x 14 pitch.

 

[LORDY611]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

I come up with a 10 3/8 x 14 pitch.

Thanks for the info. Can you get anything from the "L" or "AA" stamped on it? Wondering if L stands for Left referring to rotation. Most charts for props need to know if rotation is standard or not. What is Standard?

 

[rndn]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

The only motors that are not standard are ones that were ordered to be used as a twin outboard application. Special order and rare to find.

 

[rndn]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

Looking at the mounted prop from behind the motor, standard props will rotate clockwise to propel the boat forward.

 

[LORDY611]

(duplicate post--love that delay)

 

[LORDY611]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

Thank you much. I can see from my photo that mine will spin clockwise as viewed from behind.
Just ordered my TinyTach. Now I wait to see what the RPMs are and GPS mph to determine if I should replace my current prop.
No doubt I speak for many when I say "Who knew?" I've been using outboard motors for over 40 years. I thought you just hung it on the transom, clamped it down and took off. Perhaps in my case(s) that's all it ever needed to be. I can safely say that I have never needed to replace a prop, or hub, but do remember back in the day replacing shear pins now and then. I must be fortunate in that the lake in Maine I go to is basically sandy bottom. Probably saved a fortune in replaced props.
Thanks again--

 

[steelespike]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

Usually rotation is indicated by C clockwise or CC counterclockwise.standard is C.A stainless prop has a finer design it flexes less and usually has a more sofisticated design.They generally resist venting better and can improve boat handling. Don't make any changes until you give us your present max rpm and speed. Remind us of the prop size. It also appears you are keeping your motors size a secret.

 

[LORDY611]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

Usually rotation is indicated by C clockwise or CC counterclockwise.standard is C.A stainless prop has a finer design it flexes less and usually has a more sofisticated design.They generally resist venting better and can improve boat handling. Don't make any changes until you give us your present max rpm and speed. Remind us of the prop size. It also appears you are keeping your motors size a secret.

Completely unintentional. 1996 40 hp Merc, 4 cyl, 2 stroke. I bought it used from a man who took it off his new boat after the first hour of use because it was too underpowered for his f'glass bass boat. If I recall, he went to a 90 hp and put the 40 on a pallet in his garage for about 4 yrs. I followed the instructions for "Awakening a sleeping outboard" and I think it fired within 5 seconds of cranking. Ran really well last summer, and as you can tell by the paint on the prop, just barely broken in.

 

[steelespike]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

You might want to check your setup before doing a prop.Starting with the antivent plate even with the bottom of the boat and raise the motor a little at a time to a point just before venting becomes a problem.Be sure it pumps water and clamps have a good grip.Under ideal conditions you could gain 2 to 3 mph.Then you could go for a prop that could deliver even more.

 

[LORDY611]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

You might want to check your setup before doing a prop.Starting with the antivent plate even with the bottom of the boat and raise the motor a little at a time to a point just before venting becomes a problem.Be sure it pumps water and clamps have a good grip.Under ideal conditions you could gain 2 to 3 mph.Then you could go for a prop that could deliver even more.

I guess like some others I am not all that concerned with top speed, but trying to pull a skier out of the water was difficult at best. So, I guess the first step is to double check the motor height (pretty sure I planned that when I installed it last summer) --4 thru-bolts in the top hole which allows more upward movement if needed, not clamps like the 30hp Johnson that I got with the boat. Then make sure I'm getting the motor to the proper RPM, and for grins, check the speed. Assuming those all check out and still need more out of the hole, I'll be doing more research on what combo might help get a skier out of the water.

 

[Bass Tracker TX17]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

Same Engine and prop I have

I'm looking for a spare prop.
I want exactly the same as I have on now.

My Boat was not to happy trying to pull a tube until it got up on top.
Not sure about a skier.

If you think about getting rid of that let me know.


Mike

 

[Bass Tracker TX17]

Re: Need help deciphering Merc's code

BTW which lake in MAINE you go to ????