OK, my 2001 Eagle tandem axle trailer (new to me) has non-functioning surge brakes. I have a Titan Model 60 actuator and Demco 10" drums (not sure which style -free backing, uni servo, etc...haven't had it apart yet and can't get to it right now), on the front axle only. AFAIK, it's all original stuff (maintenance was apparently ignored on this rig). Boat weighs maybe 3000lb.
If I stay with drums, I know I'll be wanting at the very least a new master cylinder ($50). Probably new brake assemblies ($65/side for galvanized) each side. Looking at $225 or so assuming I change the rubber lines, for a complete overhaul. I know it's wise to go for a new actuator so add $100 to the above if so.
Plus: cheapest route, easiest fix. Con: least effective and reliable overall system. I still have drums.
Alternatively, I spend $440 on a complete disc overhaul. Complicating factor here is the reverse lockout switch and the related (minor) vehicle side wiring.
Plus: overall better performance and longevity. Con: cost, install time. Do I really need to run new hard lines? What a PITA.
Thirdly, I can go electric. $145 for controller, $100 for Nev-R-Adjust units, $40 for battery, plus some wire, lugs, etc. Totals about $300. Oops add $70 or so for new hubs...
Pro: Supposedly cheaper, more reliable, simpler, and very effecitve. Con: adding controller to vehicle, meaning it's practically the only vehicle that can tow this trailer...may not mean much.
Feel free to correct me where I'm wrong above.
Now please, somebody say, very clearly, "Ron, just go buy this...."
If I stay with drums, I know I'll be wanting at the very least a new master cylinder ($50). Probably new brake assemblies ($65/side for galvanized) each side. Looking at $225 or so assuming I change the rubber lines, for a complete overhaul. I know it's wise to go for a new actuator so add $100 to the above if so.
Plus: cheapest route, easiest fix. Con: least effective and reliable overall system. I still have drums.
Alternatively, I spend $440 on a complete disc overhaul. Complicating factor here is the reverse lockout switch and the related (minor) vehicle side wiring.
Plus: overall better performance and longevity. Con: cost, install time. Do I really need to run new hard lines? What a PITA.
Thirdly, I can go electric. $145 for controller, $100 for Nev-R-Adjust units, $40 for battery, plus some wire, lugs, etc. Totals about $300. Oops add $70 or so for new hubs...
Pro: Supposedly cheaper, more reliable, simpler, and very effecitve. Con: adding controller to vehicle, meaning it's practically the only vehicle that can tow this trailer...may not mean much.
Feel free to correct me where I'm wrong above.
Now please, somebody say, very clearly, "Ron, just go buy this...."