Need a Mopar ignition Guru or anyone that's done a points to elec conversion

[f_inscreenname]

I am having a problem tiring to figure out how to wire up my new "Pertronix Igniter Electronic Ignition" point to elec ignition conversion. The problem is how they say to hook up the wire going from the dist to the poss side of the coil. They say to run the wire to ballast resistor (on the side the ignition switch wire goes to) which then runs through the resistor and on to the coil. On every other motor I have worked on this sounds right except this system (1973 mopar 360ci). <br /> The ballast resistor (I think,hope someone can confirm or discount this) is a black box (aprox 3"X3") on the coils mounting bracket that has a wire coming out of it at one end (that goes to the poss side of the coil) and a post for another wire coming out of the top (that goes to what looks like a ground on the alternator). The ballast resistor does not run ('in-line") between the dist and the coil like most I have dealt with before. What to do? Should I just go to the poss side of the coil with the new wire from the conversion kit or should I try changing something that has worked for 30 years with a different type "in-line" resistor.

 

[snapperbait]

Re: Need a Mopar ignition Guru or anyone that's done a points to elec conversion

I may be wrong, but I think your 3" x 3" black box is your alternators voltage regulator...<br /><br /> I would do exactly as specified in the directions that came with the kit... You can "cook" the pertronix module if it gets too much voltage...<br /><br />Here is a pic of a typical Ballast resistor...<br />

<br />It's about 3" long and about 1" square..<br /><br />Here is a typical ballast resistor installation..<br />

 

[f_inscreenname]

Re: Need a Mopar ignition Guru or anyone that's done a points to elec conversion

That's what I thought. It didn't make any since on thinking it was a resistor the way it was wired. I guess now the question is do I need a ballast resister or not? I ran all summer with out one. Coil doesn't get overly hot or anything else for that matter.

 

[Trent]

Re: Need a Mopar ignition Guru or anyone that's done a points to elec conversion

To know if you really need a resistor read the following to check the amps........<br /><br />(For negative ground applications only)<br />To determine if your systems coil is compatible with the Ignitor, some measurements should be taken prior to installation of the Ignitor. Caution… While performing this test, never leave the ignition switch on for more than 30 seconds at a time.<br />Set your voltmeter to a 15 or 20-volt scale. Attach an 18 or 20 AWG jumper wire from the negative coil terminal to an engine ground. Attach positive (red) lead of your voltmeter to the positive side of the coil, and the negative (black) lead to an engine ground. Turn the ignition switch to the run position. Now read the voltage at the positive coil terminal. Turn the ignition switch off. If the voltage measured is approximately 12 volts, no resistance wire is present. A typical resistance wire will provide 9 - 6 volts. <br />The next step is to determine the resistance in the primary ignition. Label the wires attached to the coil terminals and note their appropriate location. Make sure that the ignition switch is off and disconnect all wires from the coil. Adjust your meter to the lowest ? ohm scale. If you are using an analog style meter make sure to zero the needle. Measure from the negative terminal to the positive terminal. Write your measurement down.<br />Now the maximum system amperage can be determined, divide your voltage measurement by your coil resistance measurement. This will give you the system current or amperage.<br />Four cylinder engines should not exceed 4 amps. Six and eight cylinder engines should not exceed 8.5 amps. If the total amperage in your system is higher than the amount recommended for your application, you should install a ballast resistor. <br />Example Voltage 12 <br /> Resistance 1.5 <br /> 12 / 1.5 = 8 <br />Total amperage 8