Mystery 2 water in #1

adam171771

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Johnson V6 crossflow (175hp)Replaced gaskets on exhaust plate, using permatex ultra grey gasket sealer on both sides of both gaskets. Fired up motor...still getting wet in #1. Pulled power head off and split crankcase. Water contamination present from crancase side of the reeds in #1 right through to exhaust. Intake side of reeds are clean. Upper center bearing also contaminated with water. #2 clean, #3 small amount of water present..the rest are clean. Have been told that crankcase seal could be the cause so I am replacing it..but I do not see how this could be the cause since no water passages are sealed by the seal, so I am guessing that the crankcase seal isolated crankcase pressure between cylinders. My compression is 150lbs on all 6. On visual inspection I see no cracks...anybody have any ideas?
 

adam171771

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Re: Mystery 2 water in #1

If a head is leaking water into the cylinder, is it possible for it to contaminate right up to the reeds, or will it generally just wet the upper part of the cylinder?
 

Dhadley

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Re: Mystery 2 water in #1

Is there ANY sign of water on the bottom bearing?
 

adam171771

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Re: Mystery 2 water in #1

None whatsoever. #1 cylinder, upper center crank bearing (bearing between 2 and 3 connecting rods) and trace around #3 cylinder(mainly around reeds and side of rod bearings next to upper main crank bearing. Otherwise dry.
 

Dhadley

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Re: Mystery 2 water in #1

Bummer. If it was water injestion its fairly simple to fix but there would be water on the top and bottom bearings.<br /><br />If the powerhead is still off I would pressure check it. That will detect any cracks or holes in the cooling passages. Especially while the front half is still off.<br /><br />Good luck!
 

adam171771

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Re: Mystery 2 water in #1

The top and bottom bearings are clean. There are two center bearings in this block. The lower center is clean, but upper center is wet. I am starting to think crack..but I guess a pressure test is the only way to find out. How does a guy pressure test it?
 

Dhadley

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Re: Mystery 2 water in #1

The test itself is pretty easy but you have to make a plate to bolt to the bottom of the block. We made ours out of thick aluminum. (Make sure its flat!) Then use a base gasket to drill the holes to bolt it up. Drill a coulpe of holes in the plate where the exhaust exits the block. <br /><br />Once the plate is on you can use the "pisser" hole to pump in air. 15 lbs will do it. A gearcase pressure checker will work nicely. <br /><br />Leave the plugs out of the heads so you can hear air if it is leaking into a particular cylinder.<br /><br />Or you can ship it to a rebuilder / remanufacturer and they can do it and probably fix (weld) it while they have it. <br /><br />Good luck!
 

adam171771

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Re: Mystery 2 water in #1

Sounds good..i will give it a try. If the block is off the gearcase, then where do I pump air in, a hole drilled in the plate with an air valve, or are you referring to a pisser hole on the block that I am unaware of?
 

Dhadley

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Re: Mystery 2 water in #1

Yes, if the block does not have a "tell tail" you can thread the plate where the water normally goes into the block and pump air in there.<br /><br />Good luck!
 

adam171771

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Re: Mystery 2 water in #1

Problem is fixed. When #1 piston detonated pieces of it were hammered into base of cylinder creating small water leaks. It is fixed and tested. I am happy. Thanks to all who helped.
 
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