My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

[smacd11]

Thought I would start a thread on my redo before I get into it. I have a bad habit of getting too anxious to tear something apart and realize I didn't get any before pics, so I went out tonight and took a bunch. Hopefully I can find some time to tear some of the interior out before winter hits as my new shop is not wired or heated yet.

Plans for this year are to replace floor/carpet (and a bunch of broken rivets while floor is out), install pedastal seats, re-upholster all panels, replace console panels, install stereo system,


I need one of these or a way to repair it


and replace front piece of splashwell that is bent/cracked.

 

[dozerII]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Welcome Smac, great looking SS. The crack on the splashwell is typical of result of a bad transom, when it gets rotted ans soft the splashwell tries to hold the motor and torque on the boat, which doesn't work well. If you look in my 18 SS thread you will find how I repaired the same cracks.
What part of Lethbridge do you live in? I was there for 25 years.

 

[smacd11]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Legacy Ridge. New area immediately south of Hardieville. I have lived here since 1988 when we moved from Bethune, SK. Go Riders!

I saw that bad transom on your thread and thought I had the same problem. After looking at mine it feels really solid, no flex when I try to move the engine. I guess I will know more when I start taking her apart. That splashwell appears to be bent from impact where the crack is. Any other ways to inspect it for weakness?

I am also wondering if anybody has tried using Huck Bolts instead of rivets to repair a hull.

 

[dozerII]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

I know the area, we lived in ParK Meadows. Check the aluminum cap on the transom for cracks that is also a sign of a bad transom. Also the screws that hold the splashwell to the transom. Could be it is old damage and the transom has been replaced.

 

[smacd11]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Aluminum cap looks fine. Everything on this boat looks original. At least my brother works at a fabrication shop and can build me a new piece for the splashwell. They throw away scraps bigger than that

 

[InMotion]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Hey S11... nice looking boat! Check the edges of the transom board up under the splashwell and up towards the transom caps... that's usually where they rot.

Looks like a great re-build project! Keep taking those pics!!

J.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Welcome to the Tinsanity!

Nice looking rig!

 

[smacd11]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Thanks guys,

We got the boat in August in trade for a quad that I fixed up. We decided that a family of 4 does not fit very comfortably on the quad and I was looking to sell it to buy a Jeep. A guy offered me this boat in trade. I figured it was a good enough deal so we picked it up. We managed to get it out on the water a few times in which I found a few minor problems (leaking/missing rivets, busted bilge pump, some corroded ground connections, and an ignition coil failure.) I am looking forward to getting her all fixed up for next year, time and money permitting, to take the kids out. My oldest is 4 and is very much looking forward to fishing. I will keep you guys posted with the progress and will probably have some questions along the way.

Cheers,

 

[smacd11]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Happy New Year all!

So with a bit of time on my hands the other night, I decided to do a bit of work on my boat. I removed the cover on the port side under the splashwell to inspect the condition of the transom. Using a probe the transom feels pretty good. If I put some weight on the leg the transom hardly moves. The caulking in the spashwell is old and cracked. How much movement would be considered normal?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

I removed the cover on the port side under the splashwell to inspect the condition of the transom. Using a probe the transom feels pretty good. If I put some weight on the leg the transom hardly moves. The caulking in the spashwell is old and cracked. How much movement would be considered normal?

No movement is normal, movement causes stress, stress causes cracks, probably similar to those in the seams & corners of your splashwell:

As dozer noted previously:

Check the aluminum cap on the transom for cracks that is also a sign of a bad transom. Also the screws that hold the splashwell to the transom. Could be it is old damage and the transom has been replaced.

The splashwell normally supplies structural support to the transom, so the cracks may be allowing slight movement if the transom has been replaced..... With the amount of cracking, it may be easier to fix them if the splashwell is removed. Once removed, it should be much easier to assess whether the transom has been replaced &/or is in good condition.

If it is easily removed from the boat, it is likely good to go. If it's swollen & stuck in place after removal of all screws, rivets & drain tubes, then it's likely compromised & should be replaced.....

 

[jasoutside]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

How much movement would be considered normal?

Yah, pretty much none. You are likely due for a new one eh:thumb:

 

[smacd11]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

I think it will do for this year. I plan on replacing the floor and transom as next years project. I will have my bro fab up a new piece for the splashwell at that time to address the crack.

 

[dozerII]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Happy New Year back at ya sm, keep a close eye on the transom, you don't want to drop the nice O/B in the lake.

 

[smacd11]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

So i finally got a chance to get to the garage for a couple hours tonight with the help of my shipmates...


Got the damaged piece removed for fabrication...


Inspected the transom while I have access. To me it doesn't look that bad but I am thinking while at this point it would not be that much more work to replace it now. My plan was to replace it next year when I take the floor out.




Anyone know what size rivets hold this splashwell together? I thought they should be 3/16 but they seem smaller. I didn't have a chance to measure them yet.

Next I guess I need to build my outboard stand and remove the engine.

 

[smacd11]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

One thought I had, Is it possible the stress to the splashwell came from the ski pole? I am thinking at this point I may get my bro to fab up the other part of the splashwell to eliminate the mounts for the pole that I no longer have. I noticed a crack in it at the transom end as well. Since I have to remove it to replace the transom it would probably be easier to make a new one that to clean and refinish that one.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Looks like you have a super fun crew there:thumb:

Yah, best to go ahead with the transom change out so long as you are in rebuild mode. And yup, pretty sure you are looking at 3/16 rivets (if not, they can be if you want).

 

[dozerII]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Hey Shawn, good to see you getting started on her. Good advice from Jason. The transom from the factory is in 3 pieces and you will probably find the top corners are rotted. Make the new one one piece for more strength. The factory rivets are a littler smaller then 3/16 but pretty much every one drills them up to 3/16.

 

[smacd11]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Just curious, would 3/4" birch plywood work for the transom? I have a sheet that I can use if there won't be any problem.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

I'd avoid birch when possible, really doesn't have a lot of use in boat building ya know.

Exterior, Arauco, MDO, or Marine Grade Plywood would be much better to use (from least expensive to most in that list there).

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: My first boat - 1982 Starcraft SS160 rebuild

Not unless it's made w/ exterior waterproof glue, which is unlikely. It's probably interior grade plywood.

A sheet of ACX exterior plywood would be much better, Auracao (sp?) would be better still as would MDO.....

ACX VS BCX:
The 1st 2 letters in each type indicates the grade of veneer used on each side of a sheet of plywood. 'A' or 'B' stands for the grade of veneer used on 'Good' side of the plywood, 'C' grade is on the other (generally the back or not to be seen side)... The 'X' is for exterior grade (rated) plywood that has been laminated together w/ waterproof glue...

Just like in school A>B>C...

A has fewer repairs, but they should all have been filled w/ a wooden 'patch' (shaped like a football) not filler, and be a fairly smooth face. B has more repairs & some may have been 'filled' not patched, and may not be as smooth. C may have knots that have not been filled or patched, and some may be missing, leaving a small roundish divit (hole). It's not hard to look at the A-B-C faces & tell which is which...

That may not be 100% accurate per the US lumber standard, but is generally correct...