Re: My '71 Johnson 9.5hp has no spark
'evenin' flyguy,<br /><br />you've godda be frustrated over this. <br /><br />there's a couple of things to check (& sorry if they seem presumptive but i don't know what we've got here).<br /><br />#1 - How does the KEY look? the woodruff key in the top of the crank shaft that locks the flywheel in the correct postion on the shaft. if it's not right, this could be your problem<br /><br />next #1 - the KILL switch. you'll see 2- black wires & plugs that run from the timer base to the kill switch. these are held in place with little metal circle snap clips mounted over bosses in the cast motor housing. if the wires are shorted to the chasis or if the kill switch is internally shorted -BAM no primary signal to the coils and no spark. you can isolate the kill switch by unplugging the two black plugs. if the wires are damaged, trace them back to their repective circuit and remove/replace.<br /><br />third #1- are you sure that you've got the points wired in correctly? if point for TOP are tied to coil for BOTTOM, nothing will happen when it's supposed to. the field will have collapsed in the coil and the induced current will have dropped to 0 long before the points open to interupt the current. <br /><br />if your sure that you're wired correctly, use a meter to confirm the ponts resistance/continutity. i had a set that i put in last year. BRAND NEW. i was goin' crazy, swappin coils, condencers etc. the point should measure OPEN (infinite resistance) when they are open. i had a set that was shorted. to the circuit it meant that they were closed/conducting even when they were open. result-no di/dt in the primary & thus no spark.<br /><br />the coils should line up with the milled surface on the mounting base. your strait edge probably got you there.<br /><br />let us know what you find. there's not all that much to these ignitions and i'm sure that we can figure it out.<br /><br />Good Luck
