My 1997 150hp rebuild

[pointblank1000]

1997 150hp v6 carburetor 2 stroke engine rebuild.
Bought a used rig for a great price that came with a OIL starved motor. That's why I'm rebuilding it. I have the block assembly on the bench right now and have removed the END caps. However, I can't seem to break the two CRANKCASE halves.
Any EASY way to do this? I'm thinking I need to make some kind of a SPREADER to use at the top end or do they make a tool for this?
Oh yea, only one piston has failed. The port side upper.

 

[racerone]

The crankcase halves fall apart if al the bolts are out.-----You do have the intake manifold / reed valves off ?-----Best to keep the hammer and spreader tools away from this fine motor

 

[pointblank1000]

Wow, maybe I missed something here but I thought I had ALL the bolts out. I'll go back and check.
Reeds and manifold has been removed but I'll look again.
I was thinking maybe the paint was causing it to stick. Yea...i must have left some bolts in there.

 

[Dukedog]

reed plate has got to be removed... you have 8 3/8" down tha middle each side of main bearings.. 10 5/16", three on each outside edge, 4 holding top bearing cap. 4 1/4" holding bottom bearing cap..

sometimes you need a mallet to "tap" it in a few places ta get it to break loose

 

[pointblank1000]

I gotta pay more attention.
Took a quick look and saw some bolts on the INSIDE of the small half of CRANKCASE housing.
I'll remove those tomorrow and I'm sure the two halves will part.

 

[pointblank1000]

Ok, everything came apart fine and the block is at the machine shop now. The tech quoted a price of about $800 to SLEEVE to standard on one cylinder and bore another cylinder .015 over. Hone the remaining cylinders and other tasks.
Does this sound like a reasonable price?
I thought if I could get the machine shop work done for $1000 I would be lucky.
What do you think?

 

[racerone]

A little bit on the high side.------But shops that do this kind of work and the people who are trained are disappearing.----So those that are left can name a price.-----Might be cheaper to look for a used block !------You are not installing new rings in old pistons I hope.

 

[Faztbullet]

Bore all 6 .015 or .020 over..shouldnt be over $500. If it was oil starved as you stated really need to look at crank/rod surfaces. What cylinders failed?

 

[pointblank1000]

Port side top piston blew up....tech said he will sleeve that one back to standard size.
Port side bottom piston was scored...he said he will bore it .015 over.
All the other piston and cylinders looked fine.
Why was it OIL STARVED?
While cleaning the "in boat oil tank" I noticed the oil PICKUP tube strainer was COMPLETLY blocked with what looked like thick jelly.
I used a carb cleaner to clear it. I have not looked at the " on the motor tank" yet. It may be ok.
I guess him having to sleeve the one cylinder is why it's costing $800.

 

[Faztbullet]

Oil starvation will effect ALL cylinder not just a couple. Only reason to sleeve is if webbing broken out as can get various size pistons. I dont think it was oil problem

 

[pointblank1000]

What's your best guess as to what happened?
I was going on what the previous owner stated and the oil pickup tube blockage.
The top port piston was melted and bent.
The bottom port piston and cylinder was slightly scored.

 

[Faztbullet]

Got pics of cylinders/pistons?

 

[pointblank1000]

Top port piston

 

[pointblank1000]

Also, new rings in OLD pistons?
Maybe I can learn something here. Is this a bad idea?

 

[racerone]

Bad idea on a high performance / hard working engine like that.-----Ring grooves will be worn.----Will not seal properly with new rings.

 

[pointblank1000]

Then do i just use the oem rings?
They still look ok.
Hate to have to buy ALL new pistons rings etc
That will be VERY costly.
Of course I will have to have new pistons and rings for the ones that failed.

 

[Faztbullet]

That is preignition damage....replace switchboxes and remove advance module

 

[pointblank1000]

Ok, thanks for the heads up.
I will look at these items CLOSER.

 

[pointblank1000]

I noticed loose connections at the switchboxes when I was removing parts from the motor. Also one of the battery cables was frayed exposing copper. Would this be the reason the switchboxes failed?
Motor looked like it had never been worked on.
Still had the black coating all over it.

 

[Faztbullet]

Ignition system is completely separate from battery so no to cables frayed. Usually a bad bias circuit or advance module