My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

[b717doc]

Went into my part time job this morning, they sent me home, no work....Excited to finally have a chance to get my 1960 Johnson 40 horse back together after replacing the ignition system..I put the pull start mechanism back on, installed the new impeller, installed the lower unit and linkages, all in under 2 hours...Flushed fuel system, got new gas, and filled up the old garbage can. She would'nt spin over fast enough to fire, so I disconntected the compression release linkage, attached a pair of vice grips, and safety wired the compression release to the open position...Hit the key, and she sputtered a few times, and finally idled poorly.. Hooked back up the compression release, and she fired right off. Tweaked the mixtures a little, now she's purring like a kitten! Very excited to get her in the lake....

 

[coolguy147]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

u replace the gear oil?

 

[Willyclay]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

Glad to hear you got it running. Another great old motor saved from the dump!

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

Very reliable motors and cool looking, but be careful with it. The 1960 - 61 RDS models were known for twisting the cranks in a "runaway situation."

Incase you're wondering what a runaway situation is, it's simply over-revving the engine without being under load. The pistons are larger than the ones in the 35's, but the same crank. Couple that with a wide flywheel and they runaway quite easily. This particular model was recalled and redesigned for 1962, by enlarging the crankshaft and making it a lower compression powerhead.

All in all though, these are good motors and have proven to be reliable, if they are handled properly. I hope it works out great for you.

 

[b717doc]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

u replace the gear oil?

By "gear oil", Im assuming you mean the oil in the very bottom, or foot of the motor. No, I have'nt changed it yet. I was told by my local shop that the seal or o-ring that keeps water out of there, is extremely hard to change, and it would be much easier just to change the gear lube after every visit to the lake...that's what I've been doing for the last couple of years. Any ideas what he's talking about, and if it is that hard to replace?

 

[lindy46]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

By "gear oil", Im assuming you mean the oil in the very bottom, or foot of the motor. No, I have'nt changed it yet. I was told by my local shop that the seal or o-ring that keeps water out of there, is extremely hard to change, and it would be much easier just to change the gear lube after every visit to the lake...that's what I've been doing for the last couple of years. Any ideas what he's talking about, and if it is that hard to replace?

WOW! - that would get expensive, not to mention the amount of work involved in changing the gear oil after every use. I would install new gear oil, run it for awhile, and then drain it - see if it's clear or milky. If milky, then water is getting in and seals need to be replaced. Or if you want to invest in a pressure tester, you could drain the oil and pressure test the lower unit to see if it has any leaks. If you know how to pull the lower unit and change the impeller, you can change the seals without too much difficulty.

 

[b717doc]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

It's milky everytime I take it out of the water, so I know water's getting in there somehow...just not sure which seal keeps the water out, or where it's at...

 

[coolguy147]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

make sure u replace the washer on the screw after everytime u take it out. those r one time use washers

most of the leaks r from no washers hopely thats ur case

 

[lindy46]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

It's milky everytime I take it out of the water, so I know water's getting in there somehow...just not sure which seal keeps the water out, or where it's at...

If it's not missing washers on the drain bolt and vent bolt, then the next seal to check is the prop shaft seal right behind the prop. They tend to get fishing line tangled in them which compromises them and they leak. Better yet, get a pressure tester, pump it up to 15psi and put some dish soap solution on the seals to see which one is leaking. There are 3 seals to check: the prop shaft seal, the upper driveshaft seal (under the water pump) and the shift rod seal.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

I have the same motor and have been chasing a leak in the lower unit all last year. I replaced every seal except for the hard one, the shift rod o-ring. I was messing with the lower unit off the motor at the end of last year, pushed the drive shaft in and it started to bubble up from around the shift rod, guess I found the leak. It would have been easier to just pressurize the lower unit (keep it under 10psi) and find the leak that way. Oh well, live and learn.

I am assuming your mechanic was referring to this same o-ring. I have not done it yet (the boat is in the garage up north for the winter), but if you search this site, you will see how to change it. It is not that hard, just need the right tools or make a puller.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

I'd be worried that your drive shaft bushing is getting some wear in it. If that bushing gets worn and your drive shaft wobbles in it, then it'll wear out the new drive shaft seal almost immediately. If you decide to take it apart, I'd check that driveshaft first and see if there's any play in the bushing, and if so, I'd just keep changing it like you're doing unless you wanted to go to the trouble of getting a new housing and possibly an EZ sleeve for the driveshaft. I'll bet you wouldn't have that much of a problem getting a good used lower unit for reasonable money if you looked in the right place. I'd do that before I wasted all that lower unit oil.
Just a thought,
JBJ

 

[jasper60103]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

I would get the seal kit for the gearcase. I did mine, skipping the shift rod seal too. Didn't want to risk doing any damage. Anyway, if I had to do again, I would get the punch tool from the guy selling them on antique outboards forum. Unfortunately, I learned this after the fact. You can make one, but you need a grinding tool.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

I find the 40's are a dime a dozen and parts are easy to get. They made a lot of those engines so a new LU or LU housing should not be a problem. And also, yes, making the tool to remove the shifter bushing is real easy but you do need a grinder. Or buy a grinding attachment for your drill. It'll be slower but it will work.

 

[lindy46]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

I would get the seal kit for the gearcase. I did mine, skipping the shift rod seal too. Didn't want to risk doing any damage. Anyway, if I had to do again, I would get the punch tool from the guy selling them on antique outboards forum. Unfortunately, I learned this after the fact. You can make one, but you need a grinding tool.

I got the removal tool on ebay for $12 and it works great. Punched one out this morning, and it took about 5 minutes. Didn't damage the brass bushing. You can also use the tool to guide the bushing back in once the O-ring is replaced. Just line it up with the tool and "start" it back into the hole by hand. Once it is square with the hole, then use a socket about the same size as the bushing with a long extension and knock it in with a hammer. Don't forget to install the fiber washer/grommet in the hole before putting in the bushing, and make sure the old washer came out. Sometimes they stick and fall apart and you have to use a long screwdriver to get them out.

 

[b717doc]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

03/10/09**** Nice Monday morning, took the boat to Allatoona and backed her down the ramp. Hit the starter and just a "whomp, whomp, whomp" not enough to spin her fast enough, which I kinda expected. Choke to "auto", key on, first pull on the rope, she fired right up. Out of the "no wake" zone and eased the throttle full forward. She accelerated to full throttle, and that's the fastest that little boat has EVER went! Ran an entire tank through her, battery never did recover, but she fired first pull every time...Caught 5 yearling bass, and one rare crappie off of minnows...Thanks for all the help.

 

[jasper60103]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

Awesome!

Good ole rope start. Glad that dead battery didn't ruin your trip.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: My 1960 RDS-22 ready to go

By "gear oil", Im assuming you mean the oil in the very bottom, or foot of the motor. No, I have'nt changed it yet. I was told by my local shop that the seal or o-ring that keeps water out of there, is extremely hard to change, and it would be much easier just to change the gear lube after every visit to the lake...that's what I've been doing for the last couple of years. Any ideas what he's talking about, and if it is that hard to replace?

If your local shop mechanic is telling you to accept a leaking gearbox, because he thinks its too hard to change the seals, you need to go find another mechanic. The seal that he is worried about is most likely the driveshaft seal, which can be tough to get out sometimes. That said, my local OMC/BRP dealer has resealed several of mine. With the proper experience, tools, penetrating oil, etc., there are very few of these gearboxes that can not be properly resealed.