Multi Connection Battery Terminal

[TrueGRT]

Hi everyone,
I am installing downriggers and was wondering if someone has any experience with an item like the Marinco Multi Connection Battery Terminal?
Is something like this recommendable?

 

[Jcris]

Whats the current draw on the outriggers? Be sure they are fused and proper wire size is used. There are many devices to expand connections at the battery. Some like the one you've pictured use slip-on type plugs. Those can be adequate but if the current draw is significant I'd prefer something that uses a screw to lock the wire in place

 

[gm280]

That depends on the type boat you have and if there are any other accessories at the helm that fans out to other electrical circuits. Lots of boaters run a substantial gauge fused or circuit breaker wire to a terminal block at the helm and split off there. That way you can fuse each individual circuit for the proper size fuse for each circuit. And there is usually a fuse or circuit breaker at the battery positive terminal to protect that large gauge wire running to the helm.

So you can run wires directly from the battery for whatever you want to run, but you still need a fuse or circuit breaker to protect everything. So pick your method and whatever you decide, make certain the terminals and wire you are using can carry the current load you are going to . JMHO

 

[TrueGRT]

Thank you, these are great tipps!
I was wondering about the slip-on plugs... Looks like they might be less sturdy than adding crimp on's to the cable ends and attach them directly... But then I need an additional tool for crimping on the crimp ons... Hm...

There is not much stuff connected to the battery yet.
Its a 19ft aluminum boat and I have the motor (dont know what that pulls), a Lowrance Hook 7 (1.1A drain), and that's it.
I do have a cigarette lighter outlet and 2 USB outlets at the helm which I never use...

The downriggers pull 5-8A each. I will install a 30 amp fuse in line and the downriggers will be approximately 6ft in cable length away from the battery, so I was thinking 12/2 cable as suggested in the downrigger manual.

Any thoughts?

 

[Jcris]

Does the manual specify stranded wire? If I were setting this up I'd fuse each downrigger separately. I'd use an inline fuse for each one close to the downrigger. A good quality one, they vary quite a bit.

 

[gm280]

Thank you, these are great tipps!
I was wondering about the slip-on plugs... Looks like they might be less sturdy than adding crimp on's to the cable ends and attach them directly... But then I need an additional tool for crimping on the crimp ons... Hm...

There is not much stuff connected to the battery yet.
Its a 19ft aluminum boat and I have the motor (dont know what that pulls), a Lowrance Hook 7 (1.1A drain), and that's it.
I do have a cigarette lighter outlet and 2 USB outlets at the helm which I never use...

The downriggers pull 5-8A each. I will install a 30 amp fuse in line and the downriggers will be approximately 6ft in cable length away from the battery, so I was thinking 12/2 cable as suggested in the downrigger manual.

Any thoughts?

When talking about wiring a boat, I would use only marine quality stranded tinned wire. It is easily available and that is the only thing I would use if it were mine.

And like Jcris stated above, I would also fuse or breaker each downrigger individually. Since your downriggers call for 8 amps of current, I would use a 10 amp fuse or breaker, not a 30 amp fuse. You never ever fuse any circuit for more then the wire can support. Otherwise you can heat up the wire if overloaded and cause a fire.

The safest way to wire any boat is to install a main fuse or breaker at the very battery terminal for the total current capability of your entire circuits and use the proper wire from there to your break out terminals. And then each circuit that branches from the break out terminals gets individually fused or breaker for that circuits current draw. An Example, you install a radio, it requires 3 amps, so you fuse or breaker for 5 amps and make sure the wire from the break out terminal can carry at least 10 amps or more. That is how you wire circuits.

It sounds a lot more involved then really is. But you have to remember, if you ever have a fire on board a boat, there is no place to run to. You are there with it. So take the proper steps to eliminate such problems with wiring correctly from the start! JMHO

 

[Jcris]

Use slo-blow fuses as well. They will allow for in rush current spike. My experience comes from the AC side of things, in fairly large amperage circuits.

 

[TrueGRT]

Thanks again!
I have checked the fuse and it is actually a 30A fuse holder but the fuse itself is 10 A. Yes, I plan to run individual circuits for each downrigger. Will have to spend some time digesting the other Tipps but I agree, I certainly don't want a fire...

 

[sam am I]

TG,

I had those things way back in the day but,

I run 4 lectric DR's for many years now and over the years it has evolved into a setup that I like and works well for me and my needs.

Perhaps you might grab an idea or two........

1) Power riggers with a dedicated house battery that isolates from your engine battery with the engine off and charges with engine on and/or with an on-board charger. (I run this type w 3 batts, 2 house, 1 engine)

2) Using like 4 AWG marine grade wire from battery with a dedicated connection (no quick connect stuff), power both (I have 4) riggers through a single re-settable breaker (similar to this type) switch (I run 60 amps for 4 rigger @ 10A'ish max/riggers, each rigger has its own bult-in factory 10A resettable push button breaker). This main breaker lives is as close to the battery as you can and has good/easy access.........Wires within 6-8" of battery post I think (might look it up, I forget) the ABYC reg states.

3) After this main breaker switch, all rigger's power goes through a solid state switch (SSR, I use this 150A type FWIW). This allows you to remotely and globally, from a normal low current helm toggle switch (5A/10A etc), to turn power on and off to all riggers at once. (This/most all SSR's use micro amps to run, mech relay/contactor coil's at this level draw/use too much power for my needs/design, less latching type)

4) The output of the solid state switch (SSR) is where you'll individually tap each rigger's power from of course. Use like 6 AWG marine grade for each rigger run from the SSR output where each run goes to power a twist lock power receptacle (see #5 below)

5) Each rigger has a twist lock (I like Scotty/Marinco) power connector that allows you to quickly and easily electrically detach/remove the riggers from boat without huge wiring fuss.(when no rigger's are plugged in, I have LED deck lights that plug in in place I made up that can be powered on/off with that same helm switch above in #3, the outlets are all handy for other uses of course)

 

[sam am I]

Correction....I guess I bought the 200A's, had a spare rat holed. I mounted heat sinks to them but, not really needed if running less than 60/70A with Ron @ 0.75 milliohms. Could use a flat piece of aluminum if need be thou.

 

[TrueGRT]

Oh wow, this sounds fancy sam I am!
I have done as you all said and purchased marine grade wiring, as well as the multiconnector shown in the initial picture.
I wired both downriggers separately, each with an inline fuse.
I am only using one battery, but as I am trolling with my main motor I guess this should be fine for the moment.
Aaaaand.... besides the whole process taking me approximately 5 hours everything runs like charm!
Thank you all for your great tipps!

 

[Fed]

I have to ask TrueGRT, why didn't you simply put ring lugs on the wires & bolt them straight to the battery?
I've seen more spade clip hot joints than I care to remember.