Motor stalls after idling for 30 seconds(ish) - '94 60HP

IDFISHER

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 11, 2017
Messages
158
Motor just started doing this yesterday. Motor starts strong, runs great at WOT, and idles nicely for about 30 seconds and then starts to sputter and dies. It fires right back up and will idle for another 30 seconds and die again. If put it in gear but dont give it any throttle, it does the same thing. Once I give it a little, or a lot, of throttle it runs fine.

If i can tell it's starting to sputter and I try to give it throttle, it will stall.

Squeezing the primer bulb doesn't seem to help.

- compression is 115 on each cylinder
-carburetors rebuilt last year
-VRO disconnected, running 50:1 premix with non-ethanol 87 octane and XD-50 oil

I appreciate any help you can offer.
 

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,427
have you tried openning up the idle needle a bit to see if it helps… sounds like it is dying from loss of fuel on the low speed circuit of the carb

probably dirty carb again .. it happens anything can plug up a carb ...even the next day if the fuel is old, dirty, etc...

the bulb did not help so let's assume the fuel pump is ok


btw my snowblower problems cleared up nicely after half of can of seafoam … you can always try a decarb product if you are not into servicing your carb yourself.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Carburetors DO NOT come and go.. if they're faulty, they stay that way. The carburetors are not the problem.

That explanation spells out two possibilities... Either a air/fuel leak somewhere between the VRO/Fuel pump and the fuel supply OR a failing VRO/Fuel pump. HOWEVER you state that pumping the Fuel Primer Bulb (acting as a manual fuel pump) does not make the problem cease to be.... so obviously these two possibilities do not exist.

When this problem arises, does the fuel primer bulb have a tendency to flatten out somewhat?

Also... when you turn the key to the ON position, does the warning horn beep momentarily to indicate that the horn is functional?
 

IDFISHER

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 11, 2017
Messages
158
I had some work done on it last year by a Johnson mechanic and I remember him saying that he set the idle as low as it would go and that it may need adjusting after some run time so the low speed needle seems plausible to me.

The primer bulb does not flatten out.

Yes, the warning horn does beep when I turn the key to 'on'
 

IDFISHER

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 11, 2017
Messages
158
If I adjust the idle screws, do I need to adjust anything with the timing as well or just the screws only?
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
It still sounds that the carburetors are basically sound internally... but with external adjustable slow speed needle valves, yes, as Crosbyman states in not so many words, that could, and usually does have a negative affect as time passes.

In adjusting the individual slow speed needle valves, you do not need to adjust anything else, excepting possible the threaded trunion on the throttle cable where it is clamped to the engine. The needle valve adjustment may cause the idle to increase or decrease rpms as the valve adjustment would be changing the fuel/air mixture and that trunion would need adjusting to have the idle at the desired rpms..

Before touching those needle valves, be sure to make a note of where the valves are set at (the slot angle and how many turns in it takes to seat them).

HOWEVER... Before trying that adjustment procedure.... you stated that pumping the fuel primer bulb makes no difference... BUT... are you having someone constantly pump the fuel bulb BEFORE that problem surfaces so as to avoid the problem altogether... OR... are you waiting for the problem to surface, THEN someone starts to pump that bulb? There is a difference.

The past practice of adjusting the slow speed needle valves are as follows... however, the adjusting start scenario (how many turns out to begin) may be different on the 1994 model. If so, I'm sure another member will jump in here with the correction.
********************
(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
********************
 

IDFISHER

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 11, 2017
Messages
158
Thanks Joe, I have not had someone pumping constantly. Just as it seemed like it was dying i jumped back and squeezed the bulb and it still died.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Thanks Joe, I have not had someone pumping constantly. Just as it seemed like it was dying i jumped back and squeezed the bulb and it still died.

Yeah, I was afraid of that. Once the engine starts to die, pumping that bulb is too late a effort as you would be pumping air. Take someone with you on the next test and try the other method. The idea is to have the bulb act as a manual fuel pump with no let up. If this cures the problem... and you're still using the VRO strictly as a fuel pump, then I would think it's time to convert fully to the smaller type fuel pump.

Unfortunately I don't have the part number for that smaller fuel pump but hopefully another member will jump in here with that info.
 
Top