more carburetor questions

FSHKPR

Ensign
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Apr 6, 2003
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Hello<br />Just got finished doing the annual getting winter equiptment ready for the season and am having trouble with the snow blower. it is a mtd make with a 8 horse tecumseh motor. approximatly purchased new in 1992 or 93. problem i am having is it just does not run right, real erratic. revving up and down. i am thinking carb needs adjusting? any hints on the best way to do this? what screw does what? do you turn them all the way in and then so many turns out? there are two on the side of carb, on up and one lower. then there are two on the bottom of bowl. one i figure is to drain the bowl. thanks for any help. On a better note the ice auger is running great!!
 

dolluper

Captain
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Jul 19, 2004
Messages
3,904
Re: more carburetor questions

you have fresh gas or some of that old stuff if it's fresh sounds more like an air leak [like] primer diafram
 

FSHKPR

Ensign
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Apr 6, 2003
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921
Re: more carburetor questions

well its last years gas but was treated with stabil when i put it away.
 

eurolarva

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Jun 24, 2003
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Re: more carburetor questions

The bottom one is the power adjustment. You turn this to allow for more power when the augers are engaged and you are throwing snow and the motor falters. The reving problems you are experiencing are common on these motors. You can try rebuilding the carb but tecumseth carbs are junk and dont rebuild easy. I would try using a decarb spray in the engine first. Aslo check the governor spring and make sure it is in good shape. If it is stretched or kinked it can cause the racing. When you get the motor idling adjust the other two screws slightly clockwise and counter clockwise till you find the center where the mixture runs smooth. I believe the other screw is just the idle adjustment. I agree with getting rid of the old gas and go with a 91 octane gas. With age your octane will go down a bit. Also try and use non oxygenated fuel.
 

FSHKPR

Ensign
Joined
Apr 6, 2003
Messages
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Re: more carburetor questions

Okay thanks alot guys. i got it running pretty good now. did all the above and also a guy at work told me take out the screw at the bottom of the bowl and make sure it is clean. well it was all gummy. i sprayed it with carb cleaner and used some fine steel wool till it was shiny again. put it back in and it runs great! thanks again.<br />cal
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
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Re: more carburetor questions

I actually have mine set to where the motor cycles up and down a decent amount when not loaded. I have found that the machine performs much better when pushing through heavy snow. If I set it to run even, then it struggles when worked. My carb is perfectly clean, new plug, and all that. This is an old Simplicity 11 horse (I think) monster with a sidewalk width impeller. My neighbors love it when i run early in the morning, as it sounds like a Harley from Hell, very loud.
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: more carburetor questions

My neighbors love it when i run early in the morning, as it sounds like a Harley from Hell, very loud.<br />
Ahh, I love the sound of a big flathead in the morning. :D <br /><br />Fshkpr,<br /><br />Glad you got it running good, but it sounds like the carb needs cleaning. The erratic idle is a classic symptom of a dirty carb, and that gummy stuff you found was not just on the needle, but everywhere. Typically the motor will start to run crummy again after an hour or so use because the rest of the crud works its way around inside the carb. But before you take it apart, try cleaning it on the motor with a spray carb/parts cleaner like this: <br /><br />1) Run the carb dry so the engine stalls. <br />2) Screw in both needle screws (side and bottom) counting the turns until they bottom (gently) and record this so you can set them back when you reinstall them. <br />3) Unscrew both needles.<br />4) Spray in the cleaner using the long nozzle in both needle holes. Gently press in the straw so that the spray goes through the internal passages. <br />5) Replace both needles, and set to the setting recorded in step 2.<br />6) Remove gas line from carb and fill carb with cleaner through the gas line connection. It only takes an ounce or two.<br />7) Reconnect gas line.<br />8) Let set a few minutes.<br />9) Start motor and run about 5 seconds then shut off and let set a few more minutes. It may be really smokey.<br />10) Start motor and run until exhaust is no longer smokey.<br />11) Make fine adjustments to idle and thrust needles.<br /><br />If that doesn't do it, the carb is easy to rebuild with a kit that has new needles, bowl gasket, and aluminum knock outs. If you do the rebuild, don't forget to remove and replace the knockouts otherwise you can't clean the passages well. This is a common mistake when doing a rebuild on these carbs. <br /><br />To remove the knockouts, drive something sharp like an Awl into the center of it at a low angle then pry out. Be careful not to hit the interior of the carb, but it's just passages if you do, hard to mess up unless you go bonkers on it. Then use the gum cutter or other carb cleaner to clean it out, soak it, etc. Blow clean & dry and drive in the new knockouts with a wood dowel. Just enough so they have a slight dimple and don't fall out.<br /><br />Sometimes it's harder to get the carb off than to rebuild it! <br /><br />Good luck,<br /><br />Mark.
 
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