Minimal Winterization?

[LuvBoating]

What is the very least a boater can do to winterize their boat?

Have a 1992 Celebrity 200 (20') Cuddy Cabin. Have had it 10 1/2 years and bought it in northeastern Florida. Most Boat/RV Storage places there have access to water for their space renters. We are now living back in Colorado, but Boat/RV Storage places here, that we've checked out, don't offer access to water for their renters. Where our Celebrity 200 is now, doesn't. There is a water/hose, but it is locked up and maintenance has to unlock and be there when a renter requests water to use.

Without water/hose access, we can't start the engine and use Fogging Oil for winterization.

I was told, by our last Marine Mechanic in northeastern Florida, that the very least a boater can do for winterization to drain the engine block (by taking out the plugs), making sure gas tank is full and adding Fuel Stabilizer to gas tank. This worked in Florida, but Florida isn't northern Colorado in winter months.

It appears that we will have to have the winterization done by a Marine Service Center here. For $400, they will change oil/filter, fuel filter, drain block, fog the engine, add fuel stabilizer and disconnect/drain all hoses on the engine. Thing is, they do not put hose connectors back on or put block drain plugs back in. These are put into a plastic bag and given back to the customer. Then, in the Spring, it will cost us $175 to have all of the hose connections put back on and block plugs put back in.

BTW, we are both in our early 70's. I do very little-to-none "engine" type work anymore.

Any thoughts?

 

[Rick Stephens]

I don't see a choice. Either you do it yourself or you pay someone. I would not consider my engine ready for cold temps without I run it on muffs and pull the plugs while hot. That way a warm block will evap most of the remaining water still settin in low spots. I do that several times every fall as I take a boat out fishing and come back and run on muffs and drain, leaving all plugs out and the hose off the water pump. Like you, I am at enough altitude to require an empty block with surprise low temps possible any time. I added one more drain plug at the oil cooler so I could quickly drain that line as well.

I do not fog my engine. I don't consider putting my GM block in my boat into winter storage any different than parking a 2 wheel drive vehicle for the winter. I do pull the drive, drain it of oil and inspect everything when I do the final winterization for storage. I leave it off the boat on a stand. Pulling the drive means I can make sure and for certain all the drain holes on it are open and all the water is out of the pockets.

Your local service center sounds like a decent deal compared to not getting it done.

 

[LuvBoating]

We also have a couple of winter blankets to lay over the engine. Our full boat cover is pretty insulated as well. The boat will be sitting outside, compared to our last boat that was inside our 3-car garage we had when we lived in Colorado before.

Another question, should the outdrive be up or down for storage? When we had our old Bowrider here, we had it winterized and, from what I remember, the drive was left in the up position. That Bowrider was a 1989 16' Invader.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Boat model is meaningless. That said, a stern drive is best left down. First, it drains better. Second that is easier on the bellows rubber.

 

[Leardriver]

In Colorado's dry climate, you don't need to fill your gas tank, use Stabil, or fog the engine. You need to thoroughly freeze proof the engine, everything else is style points. Where is the boat stored? I am in Parker, and could come help you pull the plugs and get the water out.

 

[Rick Stephens]

In Colorado's dry climate, you don't need to fill your gas tank, use Stabil, or fog the engine. You need to thoroughly freeze proof the engine, everything else is style points. Where is the boat stored? I am in Parker, and could come help you pull the plugs and get the water out.

A kind offer. Nice!

Don't take this as being against your post, but why use Stabil on fuel that will sit for 5 or 6 months? I wouldn't do that with a car or lawnmower. Why a boat?

 

[LuvBoating]

In Colorado's dry climate, you don't need to fill your gas tank, use Stabil, or fog the engine. You need to thoroughly freeze proof the engine, everything else is style points. Where is the boat stored? I am in Parker, and could come help you pull the plugs and get the water out.

Parker is where we use to live for 4 1/2 years. Had our 1989 Invader Bowrider there, but kept it in our house garage. Aurora Marine would winterize it. Can't afford to keep the boat we have now inside a storage unit, so it has to stay outside.

Due to the amount of money we have put into the engine and outdrive, we'd probably need to have the winterization done by a marine mechanic. From what we know, this will be the first real type winter this boat has ever been in. The boat was originally sold in the state of Washington and put on The Sound there.

We live in southern Loveland and thanks for the offer, but...…….

 

[achris]

...We live in southern Loveland and thanks for the offer, but...…….

Ohhhhh. You need to invite me... I could winterize the boat, then do a little of this.... -> https://skiloveland.com/

Chris........

 

[Rick Stephens]

Ohhhhh. You need to invite me... I could winterize the boat, then do a little of this.... -> https://skiloveland.com/

Chris........

Coming into summer for you.... be a nice break from the heat.

 

[achris]

Coming into summer for you.... be a nice break from the heat.

Isn't hot yet...

 

[Scott Danforth]

you were in northern Florida.

we get freezing temps here in the middle of florida

you are in Colorado...... it gets much colder there.

so at the absolute minimum to winterize

follow the service manual

that means:

• pull boat, have on trailer
• run on muffs
• warm motor
• change oil and filter
• re-start motor to verify no oil leaks
• pull all plugs and drain the motor, the manifolds, and the lines (probe the drains as needed)
• pull the big cooling line and drain that
• drain all the plumbing that has drains - such as coolers, etc
• if you have a bravo, drain the raw water pump.
• clean out the bilge (because all the crud in the motor is now in the bilge)
• pull the drive and do the annual drive maintenance (you can re-install and store down, or install in the spring)
  • inspect the u-joints
  • inspect the gimbal bearing
  • inspect the alignment
  • inspect the bellows
  • every 5 years replace the raw water pump
  • grease the splines on u-joint shaft
  • grease the prop shaft splines
• then do the trailer maintenance
• then wash the boat
• dry the boat
• clean the interior
• and store the boat in a dry location or cover as needed

this is the absolute minimum you can do to winterize. it is so much more than cold weather prep, it is also the required maintenance

since you do not do your own work any more. having to pay someone to winterize is the only option when living in Colorado when owning an I/O

the other option. move further south and use the boat all year round

 

[Lowlysubaruguy]

Learn how to pull the drain plugs your self make sure each one is clean and draining well, I start at the exhaust pull them quickly make sure there draining fast after pulling them take a small screwdriver and check each hole sand and debris here can plug up and kill your engine I know of several cracked blocks professionally winterized that missed this step grease every fitting run the drive all the way down let it sit as long as possible requires the trailer to be raised on mine or learn to pull it I only pull mine every five years or so to check the u joints and gimbal bearing. I change my oil and filters in the spring after running it for a bit this removes the results from sitting over the winter including moisture in fuel and engine block.

Pulling the drain plugs requires a little mechanical skill even more reinstalling them, before installing them fake an install a few times without the plug get a feeling of what you have to do keep a spare there brass you won’t find dropped ones with a magnet and it’s not a great idea to have them rolling around wedging into things down there. Then I park mine on a slope lower the outdriive all the way and let it sit a day or more before it’s abandoned for the winter.
Make sure all the boat plugs are out open all compartments before covering it moisture gets in can’t evaporate that easy when there closed. Your cover needs support you’re now in the snow zone those telescoping poles won’t cut it I have a wood skeleton.

After you master the engine drain drain plugs you’ll be fine doing this you’re self. Leave them out for the winter. Myself I pump all the fuel out others think full is better I’ve tried both multiple times the empty tank is what works with our fuels in the NW and the moisture. $600 a year in savings can cover better insurance.

I use two wrenches for the block plugs a 4 to 5 inch offset box end 9/16” and a gear wrench 9/16” throw your plugs away the moment there showing wear and dont over tighten them. You can tie a piece of fishing line on the wrench for retrieval after dropping it but after a while you won’t drop it. After you master the plugs it’s easy I spend more time jockeying cars around for winter parking than wintering them I have to much crap.

 

[LuvBoating]

Now, thinking about it, all of the boats we seen on racks at the dry storage we were at in northeastern Florida, all had their drives up...….all year long. This dry storage was not a full building, only a roof, ends and racks. We stopped at another dry storage there, that was a full building with racks, and all of the boats had there their drives up as well.

When we were at boat/rv storage (outside spot) in Florida, I never seen a single boat with their drive down.

 

[LuvBoating]

you were in northern Florida.

we get freezing temps here in the middle of florida

you are in Colorado...... it gets much colder there.

so at the absolute minimum to winterize

follow the service manual

that means:

• pull boat, have on trailer
• run on muffs
• warm motor
• change oil and filter
• re-start motor to verify no oil leaks
• pull all plugs and drain the motor, the manifolds, and the lines (probe the drains as needed)
• pull the big cooling line and drain that
• drain all the plumbing that has drains - such as coolers, etc
• if you have a bravo, drain the raw water pump.
• clean out the bilge (because all the crud in the motor is now in the bilge)
• pull the drive and do the annual drive maintenance (you can re-install and store down, or install in the spring)
  • inspect the u-joints
  • inspect the gimbal bearing
  • inspect the alignment
  • inspect the bellows
  • every 5 years replace the raw water pump
  • grease the splines on u-joint shaft
  • grease the prop shaft splines
• then do the trailer maintenance
• then wash the boat
• dry the boat
• clean the interior
• and store the boat in a dry location or cover as needed

this is the absolute minimum you can do to winterize. it is so much more than cold weather prep, it is also the required maintenance

since you do not do your own work any more. having to pay someone to winterize is the only option when living in Colorado when owning an I/O

the other option. move further south and use the boat all year round

Funny thing is, we were told that boating goes on all year long, even in northeastern Florida...…...which definitely isn't true! There were so-called "Florida winter" mornings where a person could go outside and see their breath. Seen a high, at 3PM, of 45 degrees. Now, if a person lives in southern Florida, that's definitely different.

Nope, would never/ever move back to Florida or to The South! Most Seniors here in Loveland wonder why we moved to Florida in the first place.

 

[LuvBoating]

Learn how to pull the drain plugs your self make sure each one is clean and draining well, I start at the exhaust pull them quickly make sure there draining fast after pulling them take a small screwdriver and check each hole sand and debris here can plug up and kill your engine I know of several cracked blocks professionally winterized that missed this step grease every fitting run the drive all the way down let it sit as long as possible requires the trailer to be raised on mine or learn to pull it I only pull mine every five years or so to check the u joints and gimbal bearing. I change my oil and filters in the spring after running it for a bit this removes the results from sitting over the winter including moisture in fuel and engine block.

Pulling the drain plugs requires a little mechanical skill even more reinstalling them, before installing them fake an install a few times without the plug get a feeling of what you have to do keep a spare there brass you won’t find dropped ones with a magnet and it’s not a great idea to have them rolling around wedging into things down there. Then I park mine on a slope lower the outdriive all the way and let it sit a day or more before it’s abandoned for the winter.
Make sure all the boat plugs are out open all compartments before covering it moisture gets in can’t evaporate that easy when there closed. Your cover needs support you’re now in the snow zone those telescoping poles won’t cut it I have a wood skeleton.

After you master the engine drain drain plugs you’ll be fine doing this you’re self. Leave them out for the winter. Myself I pump all the fuel out others think full is better I’ve tried both multiple times the empty tank is what works with our fuels in the NW and the moisture. $600 a year in savings can cover better insurance.

I use two wrenches for the block plugs a 4 to 5 inch offset box end 9/16” and a gear wrench 9/16” throw your plugs away the moment there showing wear and dont over tighten them. You can tie a piece of fishing line on the wrench for retrieval after dropping it but after a while you won’t drop it. After you master the plugs it’s easy I spend more time jockeying cars around for winter parking than wintering them I have to much crap.

Have pulled the block plugs before. Have to unbolt the rear bench seat and raise it up, to have space enough to get to the batteries and block plugs. One thing for sure, it's much easier getting to the batteries (unhook/take out) than it is getting to the block plugs. I take out the batteries (2), after winterization is done. Keep them at our apartment and monitor their charge.

Physically speaking, I'm not sure I could even take out the two block plugs now. My body, at 70, just isn't as versatile as it use to be. I'm a computer "techy" much more than a mechanic nowadays.

 

[Lou C]

It comes down to paying someone or selling this boat and perhaps buying a boat with an Evinrude e-tec that self winterizes.

 

[LuvBoating]

It comes down to paying someone or selling this boat and perhaps buying a boat with an Evinrude e-tec that self winterizes.

Not selling the boat for another year or two. Have, financially, put too much into this boat and trailer to get rid of it right now. Have owned it for 10 1/2 years. The marine mechanic that worked on the engine quite a bit, told us that the engine is in darn good shape.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Funny thing is, we were told that boating goes on all year long, even in northeastern Florida...…...which definitely isn't true! There were so-called "Florida winter" mornings where a person could go outside and see their breath. Seen a high, at 3PM, of 45 degrees. Now, if a person lives in southern Florida, that's definitely different.

Nope, would never/ever move back to Florida or to The South! Most Seniors here in Loveland wonder why we moved to Florida in the first place.

When I lived in WI, the boat was winterized between November 14th and December 1st every year and pulled out for an April 1 launch. a few times we had to pull ice away from the boat ramp to get back in.

down here in Bradenton/Sarasota FL, other than a few weeks in January when the gulf is way too rough, you can boat year round

best bet is to pay someone to winterize it in Colorado.

 

[achris]

....

Physically speaking, I'm not sure I could even take out the two block plugs now. My body, at 70, just isn't as versatile as it use to be. I'm a computer "techy" much more than a mechanic nowadays.

Considered paying a young man wanting to learn things to help you do this, under your direct supervision and guidance? He learns, you get the job done properly, without paying the rip-off money the marine mechanics charge...

Just a thought. (BTW, ETEC is not a good choice... Lots of problems with them)

Chris...

 

[LuvBoating]

Another thought hit me..…...what about:

Draining the block and putting plugs back in. Our boat/trailer sits in gravel, and when that gravel is dry, people who drive by can create somewhat of a dust bowl. We are waiting for a paved spot to open, but still have to wait for that.

Next, we could buy a small roll of insulation and cut a few long pieces of it to lay over the engine, with a couple of old bed blankets over the insulation. Would that keep at least some cold/freezing temps out of the engine area?

We always take out the two batteries (dual battery setup) and take home.

Then, last thing, put our full-size "winter" type cover on the boat.

Now, this can only happen IF I can get the two plugs (one on each side) out of the block. If I can't, will have to have the boat completely winterized by a mechanic.

Thing is, the boat HASN'T seen any actual lake/water time since before our last oil change in August 2017 and fuel filter/water separator change (also in 2017). The engine has only been run on the muffs. So, I'd really think the oil is still good as well as the fuel filter/water separator.

When we take it out this coming Friday (temp of 77 degrees), I will check smell and how clear the oil is on the dip stick.

Really trying to stay away from the $400 winterization and $175 summarization, but may not be able to.

What do you think?