mercury outboard running on 2 of 3 cylinders. I am stumped.

danalex

Seaman
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
72
The motor is an '86 2 stroke 3 cylinder. When I got it the steering yoke was froze up and the 2 carbs were in a can of carb cleaner. I put a new complete water pump in to start, then freed up the steering - will explain how if anyone wants to know. The motor seemed to run great on the hose in the yard so I took the boat out for a trial. Turns out the top two cylinders are running and bottom cyl is not.
All new plugs. Ran seafoam thru it. New fuel lines. Filter is clean. Rebuilt fuel pump, had a bad diaphragm. The main needle valves in the carbs looked worn to me, I replaced the needle valves and the seats, of course the washer under the seat as well. Sprayed all the little holes out with carb cleaner. More than once. Took the carbs back off and tried to see if there was junk in them. I was careful not to bend/reset the floats.

When I turn each carb upside down and blow into the hose where gas goes in, the valve has it cut off. When I turn it right side up and blow, air flows.

Compression is 99 to 100 in each cylinder. Was a little lower, I sprayed it with oil and let it set a couple days. Checked with no plugs in, spinning it over a few times while watching gauge.

Motor cranks ok, sometimes have to choke it, then runs, but weak. Max at about 2500 rpm on my 18 ft pontoon. If I throttle up it dies.

I have adjusted the low speed screw on both carbs till i got what seemed to be the best performance then backed out 1/2 turn more. I ran it at 2500 rpm in gear in the lake while adjusting. (After doing it on the hose in the yard).

The butterfly in the throat of both carbs is fully open and WOT. It is closed at idle. The motor will run at about 800 - 1000 rpm at idle.

There is a spark on #3 cylinder, I borrowed a spark tester that let me adjust the gap, the best spark I see is about 3/16 inch to 1/4 inch, and blue white. When I make the gap longer I do not think it is making it.

I swapped the #3 spark plug with the #1 spark plug. #1 still works, #3 does not.
#2 plug is black and gummy, almost looked fouled. #1 is a little darkened, some black, tan electrodes. #3 was shiny and brand new looking. Is now getting wet with fuel.

I held a paper towel in front of #3 and #2 one at a time and turned the motor over. The results are the same, I am not getting a lot of spray out of either of them, but can tell there is fuel in there. Stuck a finger in each hole, get a little fuel on the finger and felt like good compression. (Which I checked with the gauge already, about 100).

There is about equal suction on each carb when running. I used my hand to choke each in turn while running at 2500 rpm in the lake, the top one almost killed it, the bottom made it stagger but not as badly.

The bulb in the line pumps up hard, becomes softer when running. New bulb. Put a new gas line from the tank(with a clamp) to the fuel filter on the motor. No quick release fittings at all. Tired of leaks and trying to figure it out.

Bowl on carb is full when I take the bolt out...I cannot think of anything else that might be helpful. Anyone got any ideas? Oh, Last thing, I reconnected the coils up to use the #2 coil to fire the #3 plug and vice versa - moved the wires that drive the coil. It started raining while I was doing that so I did not finish. Did get jolted about 5 times with the spark. It felt like a really good spark but you know how that is.

So. Magic time. Cheap fix is......?
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,744
Spark is there, but weak, so I would say coil, as switchbox appears to be doing its job.

Well, finish up that coil test, and check the spark gap with the coils swapped.
 

danalex

Seaman
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
72
Thanks, appreciate the reply. I will finish this coffee and go check it out.
 

danalex

Seaman
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
72
Coil swap done. Did not fire the cylinder. . Plug looked damp and smelled of fuel, did not see water bubble. big powerful spark, bright and loud.

I put a little gas in the plug hole and tried it, got some popping out of it so It tried. That says to me that it is a fuel problem? The lower carb has gas in the front of it back at least to the venturi, damp to the point of almost dripping. Maybe too much fuel? Has suction.

Wife threw away my $*#&@^#*$ carb cleaner. Was just a little left. I have heard it is illegal to kill spouse but surely under these circumstances!!!!!!!! I was going to spray it into the carb to see if I could get some action.

Suggestions? Advice? (Mostly about the motor, cannot do anything about wife and she is a good cook)
 

danalex

Seaman
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
72
Motor is running on the same top two cylinders with the coils swapped. Starts and runs good. I can only imagine what it would be like if that third cylinder chipped in occasionally. Have to keep the idle high, around 1300 rpm. So fire is ok. Compression is ok. Timing is ok....I guess, since it runs on the other two cylinders. The only thing left is fuel. I took the fuel pump off and checked it. Diaphrams all ok. Checked the diagram for correct installation, looks right. I checked the line from the crankcase, it is puffing and sucking, I read it should be 2 - 6 pounds, it is probably around that. Was damp in that hole, from fuel. I guess that makes sense.

So here I go pulling the carbs I guess. I wonder if I left the main jet out of the lower carb, would that cause these symptoms? I know I have to watch myself, mind is going.
 

danalex

Seaman
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
72
Since the spark was good, compression same as other cylinders, timing same, has to be fuel. Pulled the carbs. I went over the lower carb completely. Seems the main jet was a little blocked to blowing thru it. Pulled the seat and the jet and hit it with carb cleaner. Hit all the holes. Hit them again. Made sure everything was open, put together and back on motor. Realized I had not cleaned the idle adjust needle, took it out and there was a small brown something on it, like a piece of paper maybe. Cleaned it out and off, started the motor, tuned on the carbs with the idle speed screw. It is running at 2500 rpm ON ALL CYLINDERS!!! Problem is, now how can I slow it down? I have the idle stop as low as it will go. Maybe there is a butterfly partly open....will go check. I did reset the butterflys while off so both move exactly together.
 

roscoe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
21,744
Yeah, success, well partial, but its a step in the right direction.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
38,077
If water was left " off " then you may now need to replace the pump impeller.
 

danalex

Seaman
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
72
Not from that test, impeller was fine afterwards. Turning the motor over a few times doesn't usually eat my impeller, I greased it with marine grease when I put it in might be helping to save it. I started it later though and ran it about 20 seconds without water, so I am pretty sure I need to put another impeller in it. I just happen to have a spare, so about 20 minutes to change it out.

Argh. I
 

danalex

Seaman
Joined
Jun 17, 2018
Messages
72
Impeller was toasty. Melted plastic flowed up above the pump housing. I just happened to have spare impellor and housing. I would replace the lower part of the pump housing but I cannot get it to move. Got it all back together and on the motor, water flows and the motor runs once more. Still idles too high, I have the boatinfo service manual thanks to jmmbo, I will first remove and check out my lower carb, it is gushing fuel when running at lowest speed. then I will get a timing light and set up as per the manual. See how that goes.
 
Top