Mercury 8 HP 2 stroke Ignition Problem

pelleas

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Sep 14, 2010
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Here is a link to a quetion I posted on CrowleyMarine.com. Rather than retype the whole post you can go to the link.

http://support.crowleymarine.com/requests/6326

i havae a 1995 8 HP 2 stroke. It suddenly stopped like a switch was turned off. I checked the kill switch on the tiller and the kill switch on the safety lanyard. They are both OK. I checked the continuity of the wires going to the stator and I get an open circuit. What is the significance of this and what other checks do I need to do before I start ordering parts? I live in Panama and the mechanics here don't have the parts and experience that I would like. Is there a wireing diagram that you can point me to?

Thanks,
Jerry Poore
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Crowley Response...
I would first off check to see if you are getting spark and work your way from there. Unfortunately I don't have any wiring diagrams.
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My response..
Checking for a spark is the first thing I did. I actually held the spark plug while pulling the start cord knowing that I could receive a shock. I didn't care. I recweived no shock so therefore there is no spark at the plugs.

Please go to your page http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/496_70.cfm and confirm that it is the correct page for this motor. Then you wilol see the following..

STATOR ASSEMBLY - $149.17
TRIGGER ASSEMBLY 51.98
SWITCH BOX ASSY 179.92

This totals to $381.07. I just bought the motor three weeks ago for $350. I can't believe that all three assemblies went bad at exactly the same time. So you can see why I am trying to find out which assembly is bad. I checked the continuioty of the stator and trigger and found no resistance at all. ( Used the circuit diagram in the Clymer book for this engine. So it looks like both of these are bad. Hard to believe they would both go bad at exactly the sme time but so be it. Now how do I check out the Switch Assembly? There are diodes and mysterious componentsw inside.

I think you see my problem. Why should I put $400 + with shipping from the States into a motor that is 15 years old and that I just paid $350 for. It seems to me that I would be better off buying a new motor. Am I just throwing good money after bad.

How about a little help trying to narrow down which components are bad. I though that is what this furom is for. You said you did not have a wiring diagram but apparently you did not know that therre is a wiring diagram in the Clymer book. If you have access to this book, please look at the diagram and let me know if it is accurate for this motor and I will go from there.

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Any ideas?
Thanks,
Jerry
 
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