I am hoping you all can help me with this. I have some questions while going through this procedure, my questions are in RED:
This basic procedure will work for all the 2/3/4/6 cylinder inlines from 1960 to 1988. It's not for the newer 3 and 4 cylinder loopers.
Engine off
Disconnect throttle cable
Pull throttle arm to full throttle and verify carbs open fully. Adjust main throttle stop so that the carbs are JUST hitting thier own little throttle stops. The idea here is that you want the screw stop and NOT the carbs acting as the "final stop" for your throttle lever.
Return the throttle to idle, carbs should be closed. Set all idle screws to 1 3/4 turns out from lightly seated.
Remove all plugs except #1, hook a timing light to #1. Then follow the narritive.
When the throttle is in the idle position the carbs should be fully closed and the ignition retarded. It is the amount of retardation that determines your idle speed and is set later with the idle stop screw.
QUESTION: Retardation of the ignition, what does this mean exactly? Does this mean that the distributor is rotated forward, thus slowing down the RPMs? On this motor the further back the distributor rotates the quicker the motor spins as the throttle is also pulled. So my thinking is the retardation of the ignition is slowing the RPM by moving the distributor forward.
Timing Event One - throttle pickup.
As the throttle is advanced, the spark timing advances toward TDC and then to before TDC. As the timing is just passing TDC the 1st (minor)throttle pickup should hit and start to open the carbs. Use the timing light. Adjust the tang or trigger screw to make this a reality. All of them are speced different, but if the 1st pickup hits at 3-4 degrees BTDC advance - you win. Use the timing light with a friend cranking it to complete this setting.
QUESTION: Is this the sticker that is on the flywheel, I should be hitting 3-4 deg on that sticker on the indicator?
Timing Event Two - max advance.
As you continue to advance the throttle the timing will advance while the carbs slowly open a bit more. The next adjustment is max advance, this is the point where the distibutor (or trigger) can advance no more. Set the max-advance stop to 21 degrees for "direct charge" crossflow inlines and 34 degrees for the older plain vanilla crossflows. Use the light, - err to the side of caution.
QUESTION: Is this done with all the plugs in or still just the first one? Is this basically at WOT getting it to that 21 deg but with only one spark plug? Or is this not WOT, but before the steeper pick up on the cam for the throttle? If the ladder, are we saying that before at the 3-4 deg we should be at the beginning (just hitting) the first pick up on the throttle cam and then by the time we get to the second larger pick up on the throttle cam we should be at 21 deg and we continue to be at 21 deg while we go to WOT?
Right after max advance, further throttle motion should cause the second throttle pickup to hit and open the carbs to full. You already set that -now verify it.
Leave the throttle cable disconnected and go to the water. Leave the boat strapped to the trailer and back it in so it's deep enought to run. Have a friend crank it while you operate the choke and throttle. Warm it up at 1500 rpms's.
When "warm" adjust the idle stop screw for about 800 rpm and then ajust your idle needle(s) in (one at a time) till the motor stumbles. Quickly backing it out 1/2 turn from "stumble" will usually save it from needing a re-start. Do that for all the idle screws. Re-set idle stop for 800.
Now have your friend put it in gear (make SURE you are on the transom NOT in the water) and reset your idle stop for as low as you can get it. 500-600rpm is great if your old reeds will let it idle that low in gear. Now, re-adjust the idle screws, in to stumble, then 1/2 turn out. When you've gone back and forth with that a few times and have it "perfect" - adjust each one out 1/4 turn.
Reset the idle stop so that it's about 700-800 out of gear and 500-600 in gear. Sometimes bad reeds won't let you get that low, you've GOT to get it under 1000 in neutral (worst case) to avoid beating up your lower unit when you shift into gear, even 1000 is "bad" but like I said "worst case".
QUESTION: Idle stop is the lower screw that puts pressure on the joint that hooks up to the throttle cable?
Now adjust (and hook up)the throttle cable so that with the shifter in neutral, there is light to moderate pressure holding the throttle arm against the idle stop.
Take the boat off the trailer and go out in the water. Try the hole shot. If it falls on it's face try adjusting the idle screws out 1/4 turn at a time (all of them together) till you can get a hole shot. You can kind of do this on the trailer at the ramp, but it's not really safe for you, the boat, or the tow vehicle.
You're done.
-W
Thanks for your help, I've gone through this motor and this is the last part. I am finding it hard to find someone around town that works on these anymore.
J.T.
This basic procedure will work for all the 2/3/4/6 cylinder inlines from 1960 to 1988. It's not for the newer 3 and 4 cylinder loopers.
Engine off
Disconnect throttle cable
Pull throttle arm to full throttle and verify carbs open fully. Adjust main throttle stop so that the carbs are JUST hitting thier own little throttle stops. The idea here is that you want the screw stop and NOT the carbs acting as the "final stop" for your throttle lever.
Return the throttle to idle, carbs should be closed. Set all idle screws to 1 3/4 turns out from lightly seated.
Remove all plugs except #1, hook a timing light to #1. Then follow the narritive.
When the throttle is in the idle position the carbs should be fully closed and the ignition retarded. It is the amount of retardation that determines your idle speed and is set later with the idle stop screw.
QUESTION: Retardation of the ignition, what does this mean exactly? Does this mean that the distributor is rotated forward, thus slowing down the RPMs? On this motor the further back the distributor rotates the quicker the motor spins as the throttle is also pulled. So my thinking is the retardation of the ignition is slowing the RPM by moving the distributor forward.
Timing Event One - throttle pickup.
As the throttle is advanced, the spark timing advances toward TDC and then to before TDC. As the timing is just passing TDC the 1st (minor)throttle pickup should hit and start to open the carbs. Use the timing light. Adjust the tang or trigger screw to make this a reality. All of them are speced different, but if the 1st pickup hits at 3-4 degrees BTDC advance - you win. Use the timing light with a friend cranking it to complete this setting.
QUESTION: Is this the sticker that is on the flywheel, I should be hitting 3-4 deg on that sticker on the indicator?
Timing Event Two - max advance.
As you continue to advance the throttle the timing will advance while the carbs slowly open a bit more. The next adjustment is max advance, this is the point where the distibutor (or trigger) can advance no more. Set the max-advance stop to 21 degrees for "direct charge" crossflow inlines and 34 degrees for the older plain vanilla crossflows. Use the light, - err to the side of caution.
QUESTION: Is this done with all the plugs in or still just the first one? Is this basically at WOT getting it to that 21 deg but with only one spark plug? Or is this not WOT, but before the steeper pick up on the cam for the throttle? If the ladder, are we saying that before at the 3-4 deg we should be at the beginning (just hitting) the first pick up on the throttle cam and then by the time we get to the second larger pick up on the throttle cam we should be at 21 deg and we continue to be at 21 deg while we go to WOT?
Right after max advance, further throttle motion should cause the second throttle pickup to hit and open the carbs to full. You already set that -now verify it.
Leave the throttle cable disconnected and go to the water. Leave the boat strapped to the trailer and back it in so it's deep enought to run. Have a friend crank it while you operate the choke and throttle. Warm it up at 1500 rpms's.
When "warm" adjust the idle stop screw for about 800 rpm and then ajust your idle needle(s) in (one at a time) till the motor stumbles. Quickly backing it out 1/2 turn from "stumble" will usually save it from needing a re-start. Do that for all the idle screws. Re-set idle stop for 800.
Now have your friend put it in gear (make SURE you are on the transom NOT in the water) and reset your idle stop for as low as you can get it. 500-600rpm is great if your old reeds will let it idle that low in gear. Now, re-adjust the idle screws, in to stumble, then 1/2 turn out. When you've gone back and forth with that a few times and have it "perfect" - adjust each one out 1/4 turn.
Reset the idle stop so that it's about 700-800 out of gear and 500-600 in gear. Sometimes bad reeds won't let you get that low, you've GOT to get it under 1000 in neutral (worst case) to avoid beating up your lower unit when you shift into gear, even 1000 is "bad" but like I said "worst case".
QUESTION: Idle stop is the lower screw that puts pressure on the joint that hooks up to the throttle cable?
Now adjust (and hook up)the throttle cable so that with the shifter in neutral, there is light to moderate pressure holding the throttle arm against the idle stop.
Take the boat off the trailer and go out in the water. Try the hole shot. If it falls on it's face try adjusting the idle screws out 1/4 turn at a time (all of them together) till you can get a hole shot. You can kind of do this on the trailer at the ramp, but it's not really safe for you, the boat, or the tow vehicle.
You're done.
-W
Thanks for your help, I've gone through this motor and this is the last part. I am finding it hard to find someone around town that works on these anymore.
J.T.
