Mercury 1997 60 hp water pump base - Can I just break it out ???

[canufixit]

Hi, Read a lot of tips and suggestions to get the plastic water pump base w/ o ring out so it can be changed. I still can't get mine out. Can I ask this, Since the base is plastic with internal seals and external o rings which all get changed as an assembly - why can't I just "carefully" break it apart and remove it??? If I do not mark the drive shaft or machined mating surface of the alu casting Why not??? Seems to me the easiest is just to break it out (carefully), remove all the pieces and re install the new assembly.

As I mentioned many posts here and on the net say how to gently rock it out, use PB Blaster/etc. Some get lucky but many just, eventually, wind up chipping it out as I stated above.

ref bottom pump base - 46 812966a 3
http://www.amazon.com/SEI-PRODUCTS-Mercury-Mariner-46-812966A/dp/B00I8OG35G


Thanks !! I'll be sure to post my outcome with notes and suggestions !!

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, I always got mine out with 2 large screwdrivers. Pad the screwdrivers where they contact the gearcase, and pry gently. Usually the bolts corrosion holds them in. Clean and oil the bolts to help it come out.

 

[canufixit]

OK I have a Plan - What do others think ????

Ref Material;

Mercury Service bulletin (for use for pictures and diagrams) http://ethesis.zois.gr/fileshare/ΤΕ...MERCURY - EPC 13.3/data/001/03/1997/EN_09.PDF Also attached below

Hole Saw http://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-3...4019&sr=8-5-spell&keywords=1-3/4+InchHole+Saw 1 3/4" hole saw .Lenox Tools 3002828L

Part to be removed http://www.amazon.com/GLM-Boating-12352-Mercury-46-812966A7/dp/B009ZPVJ6U Base For Mercury 46-812966A7

========

The Plan; Purchase the hole saw and enlarge the rear threaded hole (that attaches the saw to a not used holder) to just over 3/4". Now the whole saw will slide down the drive shaft and on to the Plastic assembly to be removed. The Hole size is sized to be smaller than the part diameter (so not to cut the Alu lower unit and large enough not the cut the shaft seals and drive shaft in the plastic assembly. This Part is an injection molded part with installed seals and o rings. Once removed the replacement assembly part has all new seals installed.

With water pump cover/impeller, lower place removed, side the modified cutter down over the drive shaft. Once in contact with the water pump base simply press and rotate the cutting tool to cut through the plastic. Once mostly through the base assembly - remove the saw and gently tap to break the remaining plastic and remove along with the seals in the assembly. If Not cut too deep - no metal will be cut and only plastic pieces/swarf needs to be cleanout.

Remove the assembly and re install the new assembly.

What I'm trying to do here is come up with a method to easily fix this issue now and in the future. Modifying the cutter is straightforward and will add to my cutom tolls in my box.

Feedback ??/ Thoughts? Questions ???

Thanks All !!

 

[canufixit]

Gee, I always got mine out with 2 large screwdrivers. Pad the screwdrivers where they contact the gearcase, and pry gently. Usually the bolts corrosion holds them in. Clean and oil the bolts to help it come out.

Thanks, A question and some info .....

- "Usually the bolts corrosion holds them in" What Bolts?? The assembly just sides into the machined alu lower unit. ??

- just fyi - newer superseded part for this does not have the tabs anymore - although my stuck in one does (or DID before they broke off with virtually little pry pressure.

As the Assembly is still intact and not leaking - I'm tempted to just put the water pump back In and worry later about removal - However I believe the pump base is original and 19 years old - so fixing this now and coming up with a way to more easily remove future stuck bases would be the correct thing to doo IMO.

 

[Chris1956]

A lot of the Merc waterpump bases are much larger and have the mounting bolts go thru them. Yours appears to be substantially smaller. I should have looked up your motor, before typing.

 

[GA_Boater]

Had a similar problem in this thread - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...lp-removing-water-pump-base-2002-mercury-30hp

His water pump base was metal, but yours being plastic still has the same possibility of chips and shavings messing with the bearing under the base.

Something to watch for if you make another stab at removing the base. Good luck.

 

[canufixit]

Hi Chris - Thanks for the clarification. Your comments are correct.

Hi Ga_boater - Thanks for the link.

Update -

I have modified a hole saw to fit down over the driveshaft to manually and slowly cut out the "plastic" base part. I'm sitting on the fence after reading the thread/link provided. If anyone want's a picture of the hole saw and how it fits on the outdrive in cutting position I can Post.

I'm sitting on this for a few days at a min. Any other Inputs gratefully appreciated .


Canufixit

 

[Faztbullet]

This seal housing is used on a ton of larger motors such as the 3 liter and Mercruiser G2 units. I get them out by(1) draining unit and blowing excess oil out with air(2) clamping 2 pair of vise grips12" above housing (3) add air pressure30psi max and slowly rock seal and it usually pops out. Depending on shift shaft design/housing you may have to strap it/seal with PVC stub in place..

 

[canufixit]

This seal housing is used on a ton of larger motors such as the 3 liter and Mercruiser G2 units. I get them out by(1) draining unit and blowing excess oil out with air(2) clamping 2 pair of vise grips12" above housing (3) add air pressure30psi max and slowly rock seal and it usually pops out. Depending on shift shaft design/housing you may have to strap it/seal with PVC stub in place..

Thanks. Now That's something I did not think of ..... Question - Clamp the vise grips to the Driveshaft??

Thanks !

 

[Faztbullet]

Yep.....keeps it from taking out shop light when it come loose.....