Mercruiser Alpha 1 Gen 1 Project

[turand]

Whelp, I got myself an unintended project. Recently bought a used 1985 Rinker with a Mercruiser 140 and Alpha 1 Gen 1. Pretty sure the universal joints are toast (heavy clicking when I turn the steering). To make it spicey, when I was testing out, I managed to tag a rock. The prop was already in bad shape, but I finished the job. Oof. The skegs in one piece, so perhaps the lower could be salvaged, but I also noticed shifting a bit clunky (rattling as the gear engages).

So with all the mess, I am trying to decide how big of a project I am want. Looking at the prices for lower unit repair kits ($800+, even the Sierra kits aren't cheap), I'm well over half-way to a complete SEI sterndrive replacement. Has anybody had experience with these aftermarket drives?

 

[achris]

Replacing unis is a doddle. You'd have to pull the drive to repalce it anyway, and that's half the job when replacing unis.

You dinged up the prop, didn't hit the skeg. It's more likely than not that the internals are fine. Just get a new prop and forget about it.

Have a look at the videos I have made that will help you do the uni replacements. While you have the drive off, drain it, split it and service the water pump. Also videos on that in my collection. Link to them at the bottom of my signature at the bottom of this post...

Chris........

 

[turand]

Thank you! I'd managed to come across your uni video earlier, I will definitely watch the rest of your videos.

Yeah, I am pretty sure I hit the skeg and I did hit on plane so it was a good strike. After that I brought it back in on low rpm. I will definitely start where you suggest, I was going to replace the water pump anyway since the old prop needed replacing I figured I'd swap that out.

 

[Rick Stephens]

All Mercruisers will grind if you try and gently shift into gear. Proper procedure is to drop it into gear with a fairly swift push on the gear handle.

 

[turand]

Ok, thanks, that is very helpful! Will do!

 

[nola mike]

In case anybody was wondering (I opened this thread 3 times before I googled it):

doddle

Definition, Synonyms, Translations of doddle by The Free Dictionary

www.thefreedictionary.com

 

[Scott06]

As mentioned clunk going into gear is correct for a dog clutch style like on the alpha. If it clicks or doesnt fully engage that is more likely shift cable needing replacement, so replacing the drive wont help that.

Moog 315 or equivalent is the correct ujoint. I would also replace the ginbal bearing while in there

 

[achris]

.... I would also replace the gimbal bearing while in there

Why? If there's nothing wrong with the gimbal bearing, it's smooth to turn, then that's just a waste of money.

Chris...

 

[turand]

Thanks Chris for your videos, I got the drive pulled today. Beyond the symptom of hard clicking when turning (assume that to be the bearings in the cross joint,) is there anything else I can do to verify that replacing the cross joints is the problem? This is the first time I've looked at a u-joint up close, my untrained eyes doesn't see anything obviously wrong with it beyond just some surface rust on the sockets.

 

[turand]

Oh, I think I see. When I try to wiggle the joint there does seem to be a fair amount of play. Here are some pictures:


Oh, and @Scott06 , the part according to the Mercury parts diagram says these are Quicksilver 75832T1 (or Sierra 18-2174), but you would recommend going with an automotive joint (Moog 315)?

 

[nola mike]

Oh, I think I see. When I try to wiggle the joint there does seem to be a fair amount of play. Here are some pictures:
View attachment 337226View attachment 337227

Oh, and @Scott06 , the part according to the Mercury parts diagram says these are Quicksilver 75832T1 (or Sierra 18-2174), but you would recommend going with an automotive joint (Moog 315)?

The moogs will work, as will a bunch of other brands. I just did these a few weeks ago, the moogs were the cheapest at $12

 

[Rick Stephens]

like nola Mike, I have trouble paying $60 plus dollars for a u-joint made by an automotive manufacturer and sold under Merc or Sierra brand.

 

[turand]

@achris I watched your video on u-joint removal, very nice! What size socket (the bigger one) did you use to pound the joint into at the start?

 

[achris]

Can't remember exactly, just whatever size is just smaller than the OD of the cups.

 

[turand]

Thanks Chris! Your method worked, although it's clear the difference between a pro and and amateur.

Pro: Removed all caps of the first cross and detached the joint in 6 minutes
Me: 90 minutes later, I have 1 cap off. But my drive remains undamaged!

 

[turand]

Doh! Spoke too soon. Well, the second cap produced an oopsie. My fault, not the method.



Those are two teeth that broke completely off, no shavings. Is it salvageable or do I try to replace that too? Since folks willingly shave off a few teeth to do this job, I'm guessing leave it and move on, or fix it while the other teeth are still good? Seems to be a relatively cheap part, but I got to go buy the wrench for it too.

And holy crap were those caps absolutely bone dry, maybe I should grease the other before attempting to remove from the joint?

 

[achris]

Replacing the retainer (part you broke) is up to you... I would (but that's just me)....

 

[turand]

@achris, I watch your video on the gear preload

If I replace the retainer, do I need to be concerned with disturbing the gear? I am thinking not since it should be locked together, correct?

 

[nola mike]

@achris, I watch your video on the gear preload

If I replace the retainer, do I need to be concerned with disturbing the gear? I am thinking not since it should be locked together, correct?

You don't need to worry about that. Personally I wouldn't mess with it until I needed to. Might replace it at that time. It isn't affecting anything.

 

[turand]

Yeah, I've gone back and forth, but I think I am going to leave it. I figure if I ever need to venture into the gearcase, I can replace it then. Thanks all for your feedback!