Mercruiser 4.3 LH problems starting & running plus carb conversion to Edekcrock 1409

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Mercruiser 4.3 LH problems starting & running plus carb conversion to Edekcrock 1409

I'm new to boating and this is my first post so please go easy. Not sure if I should break my post into two separate ones but for now I'll keep them together.

I purchased a 2001 Glastron GX 185 SF last year. Engine - Mercruiser MCM 4.3 LH 262 CID. The boat had issues running so the seller had it brought to a local dealer to get running. At the time I was told it was just bad gas and the dealer cleaned the carbs. I was also told that I would likely need to advance the throttle a few times to get the engine to start. That seemed to work for the dozen times we used the boat last year. We did experience a good lag in initial throttle response when going from a stop of slow speed to WOT.

So this year we took the boat out still experienced the same lag in the throttle. We figured we would look into it some more but found ourselves bobbing on the broad lake when we tried to go to WOT from a stop. I was waiting for the lag but the boat just fell on it's face and would never restart. Good thing I was out with a someone who was able to tow me back.

I started with the fuel filter. The fuel looked clean inside but I replaced it anyways. I also replaced the anti-siphon valve and installed a new fuel line from the anti-siphon valve to the fuel water separator since I was already in there. With those replaced, I still couldn't get fuel to the carb. So I replaced the fuel pump. With a new fuel pump installed I was able to get fuel to the carb. I put some muffs on and started the boat up. It ran fine for several minutes and I engaged forward and revers gears without an issue.

Thinking all was good, we took her out on the water this weekend. Unloading the boat from the trailer she stared right up... I didn't even need to advance the throttle this time. I thought all was good but 200 feet later it stalled out going maybe 5 mph. I tried to restart but nothing. I advanced the throttle as I was use to doing before but nothing. So after getting the boat back to the dock I noticed a fuse had blown. I replaced the fuse and tried again.... Nothing. I tried several times and confirmed the pump was receiving power (via a test light) and the fuse was good but nothing. After draining the batter from trying and even trying with a second battery I was only able to get the boat running one additional time but she only lasted a couple of minutes before cutting out.

At this point I don't know what else I can do to. Any suggestions would be helpful. New cap and rotor were installed last year along with plugs and wires. I'm going to replace the plugs this week since them seem fouled from trying to start the boat too many times with advancing the throttle. The current plugs at AC Delco AC-MR43LTS - I was going to replace with the same since that is what I found on the plastic cover over the carb... unless someone had a better plug they recommend I use for my engine.

The only thing left I can think of is the carb needs work or replacement. I have a Weber 9666s. I can find a new carb but the price seems to be around $880s - $1,000. That is ridiculous for a carb in my opinion. The Edelbrock 1409 carb is half the price. Would the 1409 directly bolt onto the engine I have or will I need any additional parts or adapters? Will I need a new fuel line from the top of the pump to the carb? The current Mercruiser part number for that fuel line is 32-861321. I've also ready that many have had issues with the Weber carb but most topics I've found have been on the non high output 4.3. Since I have the 4.3 LH I'm looking for advice on making the switch from anyone who has done it.

The boat is at my in-law's house so it might take some time to either post pictures or runs test suggested. I would love to get the boat back in the water this weekend so I'll do my best to provide timely updates to any suggestion. I thank all in advance for any help provided!
 
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Willyclay

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Willyclay

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I searched the forum and found the thread below that deals specifically with the Edelbrock 1409 carb replacement for a Mercruiser 4.3L. FYI, I got involved with our son's 4.3LX-powered Ebbtide when I stored it for him for five years. We ran it once a year and then winterized again until his triplets learned to swim. It also had the Weber four-barrel carb. We drained the built-in fuel tank initially and ran it each time after that from a six-gallon portable tank to eliminate any question about "bad fuel". Replaced the fuel filter/water separator prior to final return to service. Never had any issue like you describe BUT it was only being run on a hose until the first launch after five years which was uneventful also.

IMHO before you start replacing the carb or other parts, you need to ensure the fuel is fresh and that new fuel pump is performing correctly. It's usually the simple stuff!

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...elbrock-1409-2114-on-stock-4-3l-vortec-engine
 
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I appreciate you taking the time to reply.

I also found the same post but the person is converting from a 2barrel carb non high output 4.3 merc. I have the 4 barrel high output version of that motor. I'm looking to see if my current metal fuel line will work and if I'll need the Edlebrock manifold.

The tank had been drained when the dealer got the boat running. Since then, only non-ethanol fuel has been used. A new fuel filter had been installed and the new fuel pump is sending fuel to the carb. I started with the simple stuff. New anti-siphon valve, new fuel filter and finally a new fuel pump. All appear to be performing as they should. This is what is leading me to the carb.

I'm still looking for an answer to my questions about the carb conversion and if what I currently have on the boat will work. Everything I've found so far doesn't cover my current set-up
 

Bondo

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I'm still looking for an answer to my questions about the carb conversion and if what I currently have on the boat will work.

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard,..... The Merc/ Weber is a Good carb, rebuild yer's,....

It's a carbon copy of the 1409, even all the parts interchange 'tween the two of 'em,....
 

Willyclay

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I was also told that I would likely need to advance the throttle a few times to get the engine to start.

I believe that is the "cold start procedure" (three pumps) from a MCM Service Bulletin that I found when working on my son's 4.3LX. Don't remember the year-no. but it is in the Don S. archives if you are interested. This should not be necessary for "warm starts".

I also found a MCM Service Bulletin, No. 97-09, at the link below that provides dealer technician guidance for troubleshooting the Weber carb before ordering a new one. Lot's of info that may help you. Good luck!

http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Bullet/97/97_09.pdf
 
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Bondo I read on several posts on here about people not being happy with their Weber carb on this engine and making a switch to the Edelbrock 1409. I've also been told there is no rebuild kit for this carb. I was also told the Weber is a three step system and the Edelbrock is a two step. If it ends up being the carb, what rebuild kit should I look at? I've also read where the Weber carb has a problem when you shut them down, they dribble fuel down through the main venturi until the bowl is empty, hence hard starts. I'm not sure if the Edelbrock has this same problem but I haven't read it being the case. If I can easily rebuild the carb I'll go that route. If not, I would look at the Edelbrock since it's half the price of any Weber carb I can currently find.

Willyclay Thank you very much for that service bulletin. If I can ever get her running for a few minutes I'll be able to perform some of those tests. There is a lot of good information in there.

So can anyone confirm if I'll need the Edelbrock performance manifold or the bore adapter for my engine if I end up making the switch? If I don't need to add the .85" plate, I should be able to use my current fuel line running from the pump to the carb.

I appreciate all of the help!!
 

Bondo

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Bondo I read on several posts on here about people not being happy with their Weber carb on this engine and making a switch to the Edelbrock 1409. I've also been told there is no rebuild kit for this carb. I was also told the Weber is a three step system and the Edelbrock is a two step. If it ends up being the carb, what rebuild kit should I look at? I've also read where the Weber carb has a problem when you shut them down, they dribble fuel down through the main venturi until the bowl is empty, hence hard starts. I'm not sure if the Edelbrock has this same problem but I haven't read it being the case. If I can easily rebuild the carb I'll go that route. If not, I would look at the Edelbrock since it's half the price of any Weber carb I can currently find.

Ayuh,..... As I said, they're the Same carb, parts interchange 'tween 'em,....

Use the Edlebrock kit, 'n parts,....

If ya don't like the 3 step needles, Edlebrock sells any needle ya want,...
I use their Street/ Strip kit to pick, 'n choose which needles, jets, 'n springs I needed to tune my Weber,.....

When ya rebuild the Weber, just fill the welch plug holes in the bottom with epoxy,...
Just did that on a Weber I'm puttin' together for a 400 chevy motor,...

If I ever take the Weber off my 4.3l, I'll do that one, but til then I'll live with the issue,....

In the thread referenced above by willyclay, I posted a link to the Edlebrock manual, which is the Bible for these carbs,...
 

Maclin

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Sounds like the oil pressure switch may not be working. The fuel pump only gets power when the engine is cranking or when the engine is running and the oil pressure switch "sees" oil pressure and switches on allowing power to the pump. If the oil pressure switch is defective then he fuel pump will only get power when the engine is cranking. So, cranking the engine for a bit before pumping the throttle sometimes allows the engine to start but it quickly runs out of fuel in the carb if the oil pressure switch is not working.
 

Willyclay

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When ya rebuild the Weber, just fill the welch plug holes in the bottom with epoxy,...just did that on a Weber I'm puttin' together for a 400 chevy motor,...If I ever take the Weber off my 4.3l, I'll do that one, but til then I'll live with the issue

Wow, that takes me back a few years when cars still had carbs! I may still have an AFB Repair Kit in my workshop. May need it for my son's Weber.
 
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Bondo Please forgive my inexperience, how do I Jumper across it? I'm I disconnecting any particular wires or am I making a temporary connection from a point to another. If so, what and I connecting together. Thank you for helping me with this.
 

Maclin

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First make sure you know what and where it is. There is an oil pressure sending unit for the gauge, that is not it. The oil pressure switch will have 2 wires coming from it, and is in the same general "plumbing" area as the oil pressure sending unit. Usually.

The oil pressure switch is just a normally open switch, that goes to closed (internally) when oil pressure gets above 5 psi or so. The 2 wires are basically an in and out circuit that only get "connected" when the switch is closed. With engine not running and key on one wire will show 12v potential and, one will not. The one that does not show potential is the one that runs to the fuel pump. You can jumper the wires right at the connections at the switch. Then when the key is on the fuel pump should run, assuming all wiring is intact
 
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