Mercruiser 165 shifter cable thread repair

SeanT7

Recruit
Joined
Apr 28, 2026
Messages
2
Hello, I am helping a friend fix up a 1976 boat with a Mercruiser 165 which has been and will be run in salt water. I have worked on a lot of cars ect... but am some what unexpired with marine repairs. I am in the middle of repairing the shift cable from the back of the engine into the out drive. I have successfully removed the old one which was the "new" style I believe which matches the replacement kit I bought. The head of the brass screw was facing aft, threading in from the stern to the bow. I started to chase the threads with I believe a 9/16 - 18 NF tap which seamed to match the brass screw of the cable. I found the threads in the housing to be corroded and fairly washed out. I only started to thread in the tap but it didn't seam to be starting well and didn't want to cross thread it or remove any aluminum ect. I cut the cable off the old cable at the screw which does thread in and feels like it tightens well.

My concern is the threads not holding the brass screw and leaking water, being run in saltwater. There was a bunch of old salt build up in the cavity where the end of the cable and aluminum "shifter block" is inside the case. I wonder if the leak came from the threads or the old cable which had a hole in the outer sleeve just before the rubber boot causing it to rust from the inside. Is there a proper way to route the cable to allow for some play so it doesn't rub on the outdrive housing to note when installing the new one? Also wonder about is there any seals on the shifter shaft that runs vertically down into the lower end. Noticed the two bushing above and below the exhaust port seam to have some play. currently covered in grease. Does just a coating of grease form a sufficient seal?

My thoughts are to use pipe dope or tape, or silicone rtv to seal the threads, or clean out the threads and use JB weld to build it back up and re tap it, or a heli-coil but worried about possible corrosion reaction between the coil and aluminum??? Also thought about jb welding the brass screw into the housing but not sure I want a permanent installation of the cable like that.

Thoughts and insights on how to make a proper repair would be much apricated. I can add some pictures if that would help.
Thank you
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,828
So was the boot torn, or just the outer jacket of the cable? If just the cable jacket, that wouldn't be the source of the leak. Boot for sure. Was the tap you used an NPT tap? Should be a straight tap. When you screw in the old nut, is there play? If so, The proper repair would probably be to drill out the hole and press in an oversized threaded bushing.
But the most likely source based on your symptoms is that upper shift shaft seal. It was superceded at some point with an integrated bushing/seal that needs to be removed and new one pressed in. Not too difficult. For sealing the new cable nut, some permatex would be what I use.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,423
Hello, I am helping a friend fix up a 1976 boat with a Mercruiser 165 which has been and will be run in salt water. I have worked on a lot of cars ect... but am some what unexpired with marine repairs. I am in the middle of repairing the shift cable from the back of the engine into the out drive. I have successfully removed the old one which was the "new" style I believe which matches the replacement kit I bought. The head of the brass screw was facing aft, threading in from the stern to the bow. I started to chase the threads with I believe a 9/16 - 18 NF tap which seamed to match the brass screw of the cable. I found the threads in the housing to be corroded and fairly washed out. I only started to thread in the tap but it didn't seam to be starting well and didn't want to cross thread it or remove any aluminum ect. I cut the cable off the old cable at the screw which does thread in and feels like it tightens well.

My concern is the threads not holding the brass screw and leaking water, being run in saltwater. There was a bunch of old salt build up in the cavity where the end of the cable and aluminum "shifter block" is inside the case. I wonder if the leak came from the threads or the old cable which had a hole in the outer sleeve just before the rubber boot causing it to rust from the inside. Is there a proper way to route the cable to allow for some play so it doesn't rub on the outdrive housing to note when installing the new one? Also wonder about is there any seals on the shifter shaft that runs vertically down into the lower end. Noticed the two bushing above and below the exhaust port seam to have some play. currently covered in grease. Does just a coating of grease form a sufficient seal?

My thoughts are to use pipe dope or tape, or silicone rtv to seal the threads, or clean out the threads and use JB weld to build it back up and re tap it, or a heli-coil but worried about possible corrosion reaction between the coil and aluminum??? Also thought about jb welding the brass screw into the housing but not sure I want a permanent installation of the cable like that.

Thoughts and insights on how to make a proper repair would be much apricated. I can add some pictures if that would help.
Thank you
Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,..... It's 1/4" pipe thread, straight, non-tapered,....
 

SeanT7

Recruit
Joined
Apr 28, 2026
Messages
2
So was the boot torn, or just the outer jacket of the cable? If just the cable jacket, that wouldn't be the source of the leak. Boot for sure. Was the tap you used an NPT tap? Should be a straight tap. When you screw in the old nut, is there play? If so, The proper repair would probably be to drill out the hole and press in an oversized threaded bushing.
But the most likely source based on your symptoms is that upper shift shaft seal. It was superceded at some point with an integrated bushing/seal that needs to be removed and new one pressed in. Not too difficult. For sealing the new cable nut, some permatex would be what I use.
The boot seamed to be in good condition, have a new one to replace. The outer jacket had worn through between the crimp and the small end of the boot. I'm guessing it rubbed on the bell housing. This caused the failure of the cable as it allowed for water intrusion into the cable.

I will verify I have the correct tap. I started maybe one thread but as it didn't seam to be threading correctly I stopped.

For the shift rod bushing and seal. looks like on the top there is part
23-35088BUSHING,BELL HOUSING(5/8")
with seal
26-45587OIL SEAL,BELL HOUSING

and then
23-45588BUSHING,BELL HOUSIONG(5/16")
the bushing with the seal on the bottom.
I'll take the rod out and inspect the bushings and seals.

The nut was a little lose in the threads when starting it but I was able to tighten it well when bottomed out. Didn't feel like it was going to strip out the threads I just don't like the way they are looking. Worried the nut may pull out the threads if under force but I guess there isn't anything putting much force into it.

Ill note the Permatex as a thread sealant. Thank you for the input.
 
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