Hey guys, thanks in advance for any input on this subject. Last summer the engine abruptly died while on the water. We were towed back to shore. At that time, we decided it was the carb based on trouble idling, hard to start, etc. so last week I replaced it with a reman. No fuel getting to it. So I replace fuel pump. Now I have fuel getting to the new carb.
Put on the muffs and turn the key and no start. I realize there is no spark. My first thought was that the new carb electric choke was shorting out ignition (the previous carb had a failed electronic choke so the wiring for it was disconnected). I removed the wire for the electric choke and nothing.
A few weeks ago I got spark from the condenser to ground. Nothing was changed so I’m stumped. What am I missing?
Looking at a wiring diagram, these colored wires don’t match up.. what are the two wires that are spliced together for the electronic choke?
*****When in need of help always post Year Make Model of your motor
Without knowing Yr/Make/Model and without viewing the actual wiring diagram for your motor and boat those choke wires are not something I can inform you about.... but to my knowledge there's (in many cases) only one wire going to the electronic choke which is 'hot' with key on.
For right now... remove/unplug the wires going to the choke and check out my info below.
using a simple test light and ohm meter
First,
Check all fuses using test light to make sure they're all good including inline fuse on engine harness
Next,
Make sure the shift lever is in neutral position. Neutral safety switch can prevent you from spinning motor over.
Next,
With key ON / using a test light / ground the test light and probe the positive side of the coil to see if you have juice.
No juice? = Problem could be no juice feeding ignition switch (blown fuse maybe) / no juice from ignition to coil / possibly bad ignition switch or wire could be smashed or disconnected somewhere between the ignition switch and the coil.
Next,
Got juice at coil positive with key in the ON position?
Stab the negative side of the coil while spinning the motor over and see if the test light flashes.
No flashing test light? Pull distributer cap off and see if points are closed. Sometimes they loosen up and close shorting juice to ground. Also check / replace condensor. With key ON you can use a pencil to open/shut the points.. they should SPARK with key in the ON position.
Got spark at the points and they look like they're set correctly?
Leave distributer cap off and see if rotor is spinning when you turn the motor over.
Rotor is spinning? Good
Check cap for cracks and carbon build up causing spark to jump to ground while motor is spinning over.
Remove coil wire and check continuity from one end of the wire to the other end.
No continuity? Wire is no good.
Got continuity? Time to get into the manual for No Start No Spark Troubleshooting guide for that year / model motor.
Trick for No Start / No Spark or intermitant engine skip: If you have juice at the coil positive with key in the ON position... you can wait until it is dark out. While spinning the motor over spray a fine mist of water over the electrical components and look for spark jumping to ground. Spray the coil, cap area and all plug wires. This is a good way to determine which spark plug wire is shorting to ground when you have an intermitant skip on your engine.
This isn't a complete step by step for you but maybe the things I mentioned above will help you to solve the mystery.
