MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

collawash

Seaman
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Oct 2, 2004
Messages
51
Last year, I bought a 1999 Chaparral Signature 27 with a 7.4 MPI B3 powerplant. I absolutely love the boat and was disappointed when I read the posting from the family who had trouble with the brand new Chaparral with the listing problem. <br /><br />Anyways when I bought it, the engine had 93 hours and now has 195 hours. I picked it up from Lake of the Ozarks in Missouri. If you don't know, this is a very warm, brackish, fresh water resevoir. I now use it exclusively in Puget Sound which is chilly salt water. Before the boat went into the salt; I installed a complete fresh water cooling system meaning only the risers, elbows, exhaust system and cooling system components touch salt water. <br /><br />At 150 hours, my "Cool Fuel" cooler started leaking salt water due to corrosion. The OUTPUT flange where the rubber hose connects from the oil cooler had pitted out. When the shop replaced the cooler, they also found one of the fuel lines (fuel pump to filter base) was also weeping fuel on the SS elbow where it connects to the pump due to corrosion. That was replaced and all seemed to be okay.<br /><br />At 195 hours, I developed another salt water leak on the oil cooler on the OUTPUT side. It had corroded just like the fuel cooler. I replaced the oil cooler and decided to look at everything else before it returns to the water. <br /><br />I checked the power steering cooler since it is first in line on the system. Same type of cooler, but no corrosion whatsoever. I also noticed the fuel line was weeping fuel from some pitting on the elbow again. This is the same line that was replaced 45 hours ago! I pulled the Cool Fuel assembly and found the output side of the fuel pump was also corroding. It was not leaking fuel, but had it continued I would have been a sorry mariner soul miles offshore. The 45 hour old fuel cooler also showed some slight corrosion on the hose flanges on both ends. Nothing extreme, just visible. <br /><br />Needless to say, I'm concerned I have a bigger problem that I'd rather not have. I've replaced all the corroded components including the fuel pump. I checked everything with a microscope. The Mercathode system, wiring and zincs were replaced too as a precautionary measure. I haven't had time to launch and play and maybe I don't want to. <br /><br />The only issue I did find is not even part of the cooling system. I found the output wire from the alternator was never tightened to the post. It showed signs of arcing near the post and on the insulation. The alternator was bench tested and found to be good. I traced the output wire and found it had been spliced with a butt connector. The person who spliced it did not put any muscle into it and I disconnected with my fingers. The butt connector splice was not protected with heat shrink wrap with sealant and was found in between the valve cover and manifold. I did not see any signs it had grounded out, but black paint makes it tough to see. I replaced the entire output wire. My batteries charge much faster now and the boat engine seems to run slightly smoother.<br /><br />1999 Mercruiser 7.4 liter MPI, #OL336434 <br /><br />1) Is there anyone with a similiar problem that could offer some insight to this troubling problem? <br />2) Could the alternator wiring been causing the corrosion issue? <br />3) Would it be wise to run ground wires to the parts that have corroded? <br />4) Any ideas on where to look for other possible causes?<br /><br />I look forward to hearing anything, good or bad.<br />Fishnfreak of Tacoma
 

Don S

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Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

I tried to check and see if there were ever any specific problems with your engine, but the serial number you give is for a 3.0L engine.
 

collawash

Seaman
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Oct 2, 2004
Messages
51
Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

Sorry, wrong number. The engine lists OL335436. Hope that helps. <br /><br />Still scratching my head in Tacoma...
 

tommays

Admiral
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Jul 4, 2004
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6,768
Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

the electric is a good place to start even on land based machinery stray current and bad grounds will eat up even 316 SS process tanks mixing liquids<br /><br />tommays
 

qystan

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 26, 2004
Messages
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Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

Some possibilities.<br /><br />Do you still flush the system with freshwater after each use? There is still saltwater on the other side of your freshwater system and that should be flushed out after each use.<br /><br />The pitting corrosion you are looking at, it is possibly galvanic. Electrical bonding of the parts should help eliminate/reduce this type of corrosion. <br /><br />The steering oil cooler is clamped to the engine mount and is thus bonded. Are the other coolers similarly mounted or bonded to the engine with a bonding wire?
 

collawash

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Oct 2, 2004
Messages
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Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

I flush the engine religiously. I'm fortunate to have a water supply near my usual ramp. The boat is trailered except for weekend type trips. It's very rare saltwater stays in the engine for more than a few minutes once it's hauled out. <br /><br />In reference to Qystan's suggestion, what would be the best method to bond those parts? Since the corrosion seems to be happening on the front of the port side of the block, I made up a 4/0 wire from the batteries to the engine block next to the coolers that have corroded. The oil cooler should be bonded, but I wonder if the steel mounting band is sufficient? Should I use stainless wire to bond everything else like Mercury does on the drive parts? Should I bond those parts to the block or the negative term on the batteries? <br /><br />The power steering cooler seems to be bonded to the back of the engine. The oil cooler is mounted on the front of the block with steel band. It too should be sufficient. Any idea why the oil cooler corroded on only one end? <br /><br />Salt water enters via the raw water pump, to the pwr steering cooler, the fuel cooler, the oil cooler and finally to the heat exchanger. Logic says all the components should be corroding at the same rate if their composition is the same.<br /><br />What is the basic definition of galvanic corrosion? <br /><br />Thanks in advance to all of you so far, it's been very helpful.
 

tommays

Admiral
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Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

well there is a chart of metals and the farther they are apart on the chart the less likely they will attack each other<br /><br />for example your outdrive with and alu prop may be fine replace it with a SS prop and leave it in saltwater and more than likely you will start haveing a galvanic reaction on the outdrive case unless extra protection measures are taken<br /><br />merc uses ss through bolts with nuts on the outdrive because in the old days when they were bolted into taped holes in the alu they would allways self-lock and require heat and luck to take apart<br /><br />in your case parts that should last years even if left in saltwater are only lasting hours <br /><br />this means that something is helping to speed up the reaction and that is about a 99% chance of being and electric based problem<br /><br />its very common on boats left in the water (i realize that flush the motor but is the boat trailered)it can be your shore power or even the boat next to you causeing the problem it only takes a very small current leak to speed up the cycle<br /><br />tommays
 

collawash

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Oct 2, 2004
Messages
51
Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

I'm not a big fan of mysteries, but I'm dealing with this one. Yes, the boat is trailered and I use my shorepower when available. I'm praying the alternator issue had alot to do with my problem since it was the most obvious flaw in the electrical system. Time will tell. <br /><br />To Don S, did you find out anything with the engine number I provided?<br /><br />Still working on ground wires to all the replaced parts. I'm checking all components, solenoids, AC and DC connections once more. <br /><br />Anyone else have any suggestions? I welcome any and all thoughts whether remote or likely in nature.
 

collawash

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Oct 2, 2004
Messages
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Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

I spoke to self proclaimed marine guru who said the problem may lie in the fuel pump itself. He's only seen one other similiar issue like mine. In his example the fuel pump was operational, but grounding out corroding the pump (more noble metal) over time and quickly eating up all the other components made of brass (less noble). He thought the alternator problem is more likely the suspect if everything else checks out. <br /><br />Anyone have any thought on this???<br /><br />Sun is shining, water is flat, boat in driveway waiting for part. Life sucks at this moment!
 

Don S

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Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

No I didn't find any problems that were common. It may be a bad pump causing the problem, have seen worse things happen. And yes the pump would still work. <br />Change the pump, check the wiring (connectors, relays etc), and keep an eye on it and see if the corrosion stops.
 

waterone1@aol.com

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Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

I have to agree that this is an electrical problem, and bonding the components would be a good place to start. Just wondering how your outdrive and props look ? If they show no sign of pitting or corrosion you can most likely rule out the shore power. If the outdrive and prop are corroding as well, then its time to look at the shore power grounding and the presence or condition of a galvonic isolator or whether any modifications have been made to the shore power system such as the addition of an inverter.
 

collawash

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Oct 2, 2004
Messages
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Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

RE: condition of props and outdrive. The props had some SUPERFICIAL pitting when I bought the boat, but it was coated with a limestone like coating over the props, hull and outdrive. The boat was used exclusively in a warm, brackish water enviroment in Missouri. The hull and outdrive cleaned up easily, but I noticed the drive's bearing carrier housing (hidden by the front prop) had some pitting. I researched the **** out of that and found out Mercury is aware of the problem. I did not know what type of zincs were on used so I switched them out to the aluminum/indium Merc recommends. I cleaned the carrier and painted the exposed areas. Can't remember (Trimocon?) what kind of paint, but it cost about $18.00 a spray can from West Marine. It seemed to have stopped any corrosion on the drive. <br /><br />The props were sent to the lab for polishing. The prop shop said the pitting I saw was not any problem whatsoever. Since then, the pitting on the props has NOT increased at all, even with 100 hours of use in the salt water. I just won an Ebay bid for slightly used 22" props that haven't been lab finished. Besides now having a spare set and better hole shot, I'll be able to track any pitting that may occur. <br /><br />I called several shops. Most techs agree that replacing the suspected culprits and making sure all the connections mechanical and electrical are secure should tell me very quickly if the problem still exists. About half of them said electrically bonding the parts should not be necessary, the other half said why not. I have all the parts, but no time to work on the boat. <br /><br />I installed a DC to AC power inverter last year, but it is not connected to the shorepower system in any way. For testing purposes, I will disconnect and take note of the corrosion problem while it's not in service. <br /><br />Waterone1: <br />1) How does the installation of an inverter change things if it is installed correctly?<br />2) Besides the Mercathode, I know there's a small 4" x 6" box near the batt switch with "Guest" on it. I assume that is the isolator/combiner. It has 3-8 gauge red wires attached the front. I think I understand how it works, but how do I test it?<br /><br />Bonding? Use SS wire or tinned copper wire? I have both on hand. Don't really know which one to use. <br /><br />Once again, thanks to all of you for providing this wealth of info I might not be able to obtain otherwise. <br /><br />Wishing I was fishin...
 

waterone1@aol.com

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Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

Fishnfreak, The key word in your first question is CORRECTLY LOL<br />Seriously though, someone had pointed a finger early on in this thread that your problem could be shore power related, since you do not leave the boat in a slip in a marina on a regular basis I doubt that it is shore power related, especially since you have no other signs of galvonic corrosion. I am not familiar with your particular boat and it's shore power wiring, but most of the boats I deal with have a galvonic isolator in line with the ground wire from the shore power receptical. This device blocks stray current from flowing from the shore power ground to your boats grounding system, yet still provides grounding protection. I have seen these devices fail and cause problems and I have seen people permanently install a large inverter and tie the ground to the wrong side of the isolator, rendering it useless. Boatus and mercury have some excellent reference guides discussing galvonic isolators and their use. You can get a great catalog for free from your mercruiser dealer that discusses all kinds of corosion problems (in depth) and how to solve them (with merc products). Once again I don't think any of this applies here.<br />2) If you have multiple batteries, then the little black box you see next to the battery switch is most likely the battery isolator which is a fancy name for a couple of large diodes. A diode will let current flow in one direction, but block it from flowing in the opposite direction.<br />This allows your single engine alternator to charge both batteries, yet still keep one discharged battery from draining the other. As an example, you could have battery #1 selected as your starting battery, and battery #2 selected as your "house" battery. While you are blasting across the lake, your alternater is charging both batteries through the isolator. If you shut off the engine, turn on the stereo, let the refrigerator run, leave your anchor and cabin lights on for a few hours (you get the idea), your house battery will run down, but the starting battery will stay charged. The diodes in the isolator will not let current flow from the starting battery to the house battery. If you have had any strange situations with batteries not charging, or batteries discharging when not selected by the battery switch, let me know, we'll go through how to test the isolator.
 

collawash

Seaman
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Oct 2, 2004
Messages
51
Re: MCM 7.4 MPI Corrosion problem, cooling / fuel systemparts

I'm not one of those boaters that likes to repair a problem twice, so I'm confident the inverter is not the issue. I checked the Chaparral wiring schematic, did not see anything that resembles a galv isolator. Thanks again. I'm (WTF) still waiting for parts! Stemtostern.com was excellent on replacement parts pricing, but lousy on service/shipping-FYI. <br /><br />"The weather is nice, wish you were beautiful..."
 
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