Mayfield Marine Dual Bilge Pump System - Fuse Blows Immediately When Switch Turned On

[gsmith3286]

I was wondering if anyone has a diagram of how the wiring works for this system. It's installed in a Nitro bass boat NX882 (2005 model). It looks like it has an electronic float switch on it (little black box under the one pump but not on the other). The one that doesn't have the black box under it I assume is the manual bilge.

I can't figure out why the fuse keeps blowing. I cut out both bilges and OHM tested them...one was 6.2OHMs and the other was 14.0 OHMs...I would have thought they'd be the same and perhaps it's a bad pump that's causing the problem.

The switch is a two-way switch (on or off)....on the back of the switch, there are 3 prongs....the top prong I assume is negative since it had both black wires spliced into it. The bottom two prongs were positive I assume. However, the one positive prong remained "hot" even with the switch turned off....is the prong for the electronic float in that the circuit is somehow kept open and tied directly to battery power? Or is the switch defective?

When OHM tested leads to the pump with the black box on it, it read like 14OHM or something. The leads to the pump with no black box showed no OHMS...well, it actually read "1" or something which I assume is infinity....that reading did not change even with the Switch turned "on". I disconnected the battery before the test.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Mayfield Marine Dual Bilge Pump System - Fuse Blows Immediately When Switch Turne

I was wondering if anyone has a diagram of how the wiring works for this system. It's installed in a Nitro bass boat NX882 (2005 model). It looks like it has an electronic float switch on it (little black box under the one pump but not on the other). The one that doesn't have the black box under it I assume is the manual bilge.

I can't figure out why the fuse keeps blowing. I cut out both bilges and OHM tested them...one was 6.2OHMs and the other was 14.0 OHMs...I would have thought they'd be the same and perhaps it's a bad pump that's causing the problem.

The switch is a two-way switch (on or off)....on the back of the switch, there are 3 prongs....the top prong I assume is negative since it had both black wires spliced into it. The bottom two prongs were positive I assume. However, the one positive prong remained "hot" even with the switch turned off....is the prong for the electronic float in that the circuit is somehow kept open and tied directly to battery power? Or is the switch defective?

When OHM tested leads to the pump with the black box on it, it read like 14OHM or something. The leads to the pump with no black box showed no OHMS...well, it actually read "1" or something which I assume is infinity....that reading did not change even with the Switch turned "on". I disconnected the battery before the test.

Ayuh,... You've got a Dead Short somewhere,...

Maybe the switch, as switches rarely to never carry the ground...

 

[NYBo]

Re: Mayfield Marine Dual Bilge Pump System - Fuse Blows Immediately When Switch Turne

There should be no negative wire to the switch unless the switch is lighted. I'm guessing this one is since it is a two-position switch. Perhaps the negative wire for the internal light and the wire to the pumps have gotten reversed.

 

[ac0j]

Re: Mayfield Marine Dual Bilge Pump System - Fuse Blows Immediately When Switch Turne

IF it is a switch with a light in it, wire it llike this!

If it still blows fuses, trace the wires for a short if the pumps test OK.