Marine Tex on Alodine?

[boatdude100]

Repairing corrosion on stern drive. I have to build it up around trim motor with as little sanding as I can.

Question: Does anyone have experience putting Marine Tex on top of Alodine? Customer service said "you have to try it". Has anyone tried it?

I would like to follow what seems recommended- Alumiprep to etch/clean then Alodine to protect and paint over (after a primer)

I'd really like to put the Marine Tek epoxy on toop of the Alodine which would give it an anti-corrosion layer but it has been suggested here to apply on sanded down bare metal.

Anyone have experience with this? Thank you!

 

[cptbill]

Haven't tried any of those, I use JB weld for those kind of repairs

 

[dingbat]

I used JB to resurface/repair the cooling passages in a corroded aluminum block with good success.

Already bare aluminum, just cleaned the surface with denatured alcohol then applied a thin layer of epoxy where needed. Covered that with plastic wrap and used a plastic spatula to fill in the voids and remove the excess material. The wrap worked surprising well to maintain the flat surface
L

 

[boatdude100]

Anyone have experience putting epoxy (Marine Tek or JB wield) over primer at all or .. only on bare metal?

 

[Scott06]

Anyone have experience putting epoxy (Marine Tek or JB wield) over primer at all or .. only on bare metal?

JB will stick to primer

 

[Chris1956]

So you want to put a stronger material (epoxy putty) over a weaker one(primer)? I cannot imagine that is a good idea. Suppose the primer peels?

You can likely remove the primer with some acetone and a rag.

 

[Scott06]

So you want to put a stronger material (epoxy putty) over a weaker one(primer)? I cannot imagine that is a good idea. Suppose the primer peels?

You can likely remove the primer with some acetone and a rag.

Do Some research on automotive finishes in many cases it is recommended to put filler over an epoxy or etching primer to prevent metal corrosion. Good primers like this are not weaker. As with everything using the correct materials and prep is key.

 

[Chris1956]

You realize the filler is epoxy, right? Also, last I checked, epoxy is significantly stronger than primer.

 

[Scott06]

You realize the filler is epoxy, right? Also, last I checked, epoxy is significantly stronger than primer.

Not sure if you are trying to evoke a sarcastic response... You are talking about cheap primers vs something like this, which is epoxy made for direct to metal-

https://buyat.ppg.com/RefinishProductCatalog/ServeFile.ashx?FileId=A0320685-0081-4DBE-B240-D3E0B4005CB7

IF the OP blast to clean the corrosion starts with this and then can use what ever filler he wants and follows the topcoat instructions he will have an OEM like finish that will last for years

To the OP I think yo are on the right track with the alodine not sure if thats what merc does first as none of the rattle can primers seem to hold up well. I think you will have a tough time getting a manufacturer to commit and say materials they dont make will work.

 

[Chris1956]

The OP is looking to use either Marine-Tex or JB Weld. Both are epoxy fillers. I recommended that they be applied to bare, clean aluminum. Once that is done, he can prime with a self-etching primer, and paint of his choice.

I have not used the primer you have recommended, however, if you are applying epoxy filler to bare aluminum, I do not see the advantage.

 

[boatdude100]

Ok here we go. But first..
Question: would you read these manufacture instructions as applying Bonderite M-CR 1001 (print prep) to a wet surface of Bonderite C-IC 33 (aluminum cleaner)? Seems odd

THE PROCESS (According to tech bulletin below)
The process to prepare metal for painting normally consists of the following steps:
A. Cleaning (Bonderite C-IC 33)
B. Water rinsing
C. Apply BONDERITE M-CR 1001 AERO
D. Water rinsing

Technical Process Bulletins:

Bonderite M-Cr 1001 Aero (Formerly Alodine 1001) | Aircraft Spruce Canada

Bonderite M-Cr 1001 Aero (Formerly Alodine 1001) An invisible coat to provide in-depth corrosion proofing to the brightened aluminum surface and act as a firm barrier against the elements and continued corrosion.

www.aircraftspruce.ca

Bonderite C-IC 33 Aero (Formerly Alumiprep 33) | Aircraft Spruce Canada

Bonderite C-IC 33 Aero (Formerly Alumiprep 33) Use to clean, brighten and transform badly Corroded aluminum to its natural appearance.

www.aircraftspruce.ca

 

[Scott06]

Ok here we go. But first..
Question: would you read these manufacture instructions as applying Bonderite M-CR 1001 (print prep) to a wet surface of Bonderite C-IC 33 (aluminum cleaner)? Seems odd

THE PROCESS (According to tech bulletin below)
The process to prepare metal for painting normally consists of the following steps:
A. Cleaning (Bonderite C-IC 33)
B. Water rinsing
C. Apply BONDERITE M-CR 1001 AERO
D. Water rinsing

Technical Process Bulletins:

Bonderite M-Cr 1001 Aero (Formerly Alodine 1001) | Aircraft Spruce Canada

Bonderite M-Cr 1001 Aero (Formerly Alodine 1001) An invisible coat to provide in-depth corrosion proofing to the brightened aluminum surface and act as a firm barrier against the elements and continued corrosion.

www.aircraftspruce.ca

Bonderite C-IC 33 Aero (Formerly Alumiprep 33) | Aircraft Spruce Canada

Bonderite C-IC 33 Aero (Formerly Alumiprep 33) Use to clean, brighten and transform badly Corroded aluminum to its natural appearance.

www.aircraftspruce.ca

No you rinse with water in between any residual water is no different than the water you are diluting the Alodine with. Prob biggest key if spraying is to keep it wet for process time. Then don’t let it dry before rinsing

 

[Donald0039]

JB Weld typically responds to email tech support questions.