Manual tilt for 99 Merc XR6 150hp

Knottymate

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Manual says for manual up or down tilt there is an access hole on the right side of the mounting bracket.

Found it and goes on to say turn counter clockwise three times. Question what kind of tool is required (specialty
or is it actually an allen wrench). There are Two small 'hex head style heads' ? embedded at the end of a bolt/round steel shaft that goes across
both mounting brackets. Somehow are both "allen" head screws suppose to be turned?
 

racerone

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I think you need to look more carefully for the manual release valve.
 

Knottymate

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Any idea where that is? The diagrams in the manual are quite clear and detail, no mistake

Can only ques my engine tilt set up and the manual are not compatible

The manual must be for a different year/engine type
 

Dukedog

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all tha V6 release valve screws, unless some ya-who hack has had a finger in it, is gonna be a "slot" type head ....
 

Knottymate

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That's right, been on utube/various web sites showing a flat head fitting.
My manual shows the location where numerous references have the 'slot'. Evidently I have a ''tilt ram" version with a 'cross pin" with the allen screws.

May have found such a slot screw but, if the trim stop working with motor down very difficult to get to (in order to release the pressure)
 

Dukedog

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That's right, been on utube/various web sites showing a flat head fitting.
Evidently I have a ''tilt ram" version with a 'cross pin" with the allen screws.

you should be able to get to it through a hole in tha clamp bracket on tha starboard side no mater where tha up/down position of tha motor is.....

there is NO OTHER version with tha production V6 unless ya go all tha way back to 1982.. been some minor changes since then but not tha release valve itself......

send me an email addy and i'll send ya a parts breakdown..... can't post site on here!
 
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Knottymate

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Thank you, found the access hole with the slot head. Completely different location than the manual.

That should do it, appreciate your help. Curious your take on best way to start this engine. I have found

to make sure pump bulb in vertical position not horizontal, depress key for 6 seconds, have neutral throttle
slightly advanced. Still iffy usually needs about 6 tries any other suggestions
 

Dukedog

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trim motor ALL tha way in...
1. pump bulb till firm...
2. push key in and start holdin' tha key pushed in till it either pops, farts, or try's ta start.. let off key and starter...
3. trim motor to level..
4. advance fast idle lever justa tad...
5. without usin' tha key pushed in this time just go to start.. should fire right off..
6. let it warm up for a few minutes.....

send me an email addy and i will send ya a pdf manual for your motor.....
 
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racerone

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Pushing the key in for 6 seconds does nothing.---Motor must be cranking with key pushed in for enricher to work properly.
 

Knottymate

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Understand, am pushing key in for 6 seconds and continue to hold key in while turning the key to start/cranking. What is the clicking sound when the key
is depressed. Is that the enricher activating. Any help if the key is depressed repeatedly numerous time before starting or is that 'flooding' the engine/

The vertical bulb deal has been the best improvement, maybe do not have a great bulb but, it seems when the bulb was laying down horizontal, the back
flow of gas was allowed. In the vertical position possibly the back flow gadget in the bulb seem to keep fuel in the line and ''pressurized""? to the engine
 

racerone

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The enricher is not a pump !---Pushing the key in without cranking does nothing.--------Turn key to crank and push key in at the same time and then motor will start.----Push key in after motor has started as needed if motor stumbles.----Bulb goes hard when carburetors are full and there are no leaks.----Bulb does not need to stay hard once motor is running !
 

Dukedog

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this...."hold key in while turning the key to start/cranking" . yes tha click is tha enrichner ........

read my last post "slowly"...................especially number 2

"calf rope"!!!
 

Knottymate

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Thanks Guys for all the input. Very interesting Dukedog about the pops, farts with key in and then normal. Exactly how I start all my other
2 cycle engines string trimmer, chain saw, leaf blower etc. Choke on till it farts and pops then before next pull. choke off.Bingo
 

Dukedog

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carb motor!.. be sure trim is all tha way in at first... you can play with it as ya learn what "that" motor wants.. they all have their little quirks with tha start procedure.. jus remember, it takes a lotta gas ta start a cold merc.........
 

sam am I

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With my engine, 92 175..........Since I'm in it weekly never need to pump the bulb but,

1) Advance throttle just off the neutral detent
2) Turn key to "on"
*3) Press key in to enrich for 10 sec's
4) Crank to start
5) Bump en-richer if necessary

*The thing/confusion that may exist here and there about the whats/hows the en-richer actually works sort of had me curious so I of course I had to see exactly how it worked for myself. It's quite simple actually and not really too different then just pouring fuel directly into the throat of the carb.

Priming with the engine cranking or not shouldn't really make any difference (doesn't with mine but, perhaps some are built differently, so this might not apply to all types/instances) because if you've ever poured fuel down the throat of a carb from a can, sat the can down and got in the car and crank the engine then this is exactly what is happening if you prime then crank.

SAM_3943.jpg


Referring to the above photo of my engine, the valve, when opened simply allows the top carb's bowl to gravity drain into a dedicated ports on top of and that only the 2 carbs below have. Ya can open the butterfly's and watch, you'll see the fuel just floods the throats (behind the butterfly's at carb base) with fuel............If you get a chance, check it out, active the valve and you can see the fuel puddle up/flood the throat at the back and run forward even.

Just like pouring in the fuel with a gas can to me away. If you're cranking at the same time, it'll just draw the fuel in in a more "real time" event but, if you let it puddle, then crank, same diff, its get sucked in in a instant ya hit the key to crank......That's how mine works anyway, makes no difference on my engine, tried both ways but, prefer to prime while not cranking cuz I can hear the "click" of the value" when not cranking at same time. Mental thing I suppose knowing the valve coil is at least good and the click tells me it opened.
 
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