Major engine malfunction today and could use advice on next steps

[MalibuMike]

Had four amazing days with the family at Catalina island and upon returning today had some major issues which led me to be towed for the first time in five years of owning my 1997 Parker with a 2007 Volvo penta 5.7 G.I. – F.
I was heading back, cruising at around 3200 RPM and all the sudden heard a very unusual squeal. The squeal sounded like what could’ve come from the belt being frozen on a pulley upon inspecting the belt it did look like there was a couple unusual were spots that could’ve indicated a moment of the belt stopping and a pulley, still spinning, or vice versa. They quickly shut down the motor and went to inspect the engine. I found a very small amount of smoke toward the back and one of the risers was very hot. I then felt the impeller housing and it was cool. I ran back to my helm and looked at the gauge and it was sitting around 205°. My normal operating temperatures are around 175.

I restarted the engine and started in gear at lower PMs and quickly watch the temperature settle back to normal and that’s when the engine started sputtering and cutting out. Over the next few minutes I started it up again where it would idle OK, but giving it any sort of gas would cause it to cut out. I had my 15 year old help me with a quick fuel pressure test and got roughly 10 psi at the low pressure port in 50 psi on the fuel rail.

Ended up calling boat tow us for a free ride back to the harbor. That’s a Harbor a High discovered some thing else which may or may not be related. The first thing I noticed was my engine tilt switch was not working, when I press the button, all my gauges were pinned hard to the right. I suspected a short and quickly found it. I reached at the back of the block where the major grounding cables are, and found a freely spinning knot and completely lose ground and gable tightened it back on, and all my electronics went back to normal

Upon getting it home, I conducted a compression test with the spark plugs removed, a cold engine and got the following numbers.
145
145
130
150
145
142
150
145
I did not see any water get ejected out of the cylinders, nor did I observe any steam cleaning of the spark plugs.

When I tried to start the motor up to flush the engine, it cranked over fine, but I could not get it to start.

Let’s assume the loose ground wire is just a separate issue. What else could I have experience with the screeching? At first I thought the prop got locked up in a rope because it sounded like something was bound but I can’t quite connect the hot riser. I was panicked about the possibility of Hydro lock or water intrusion but I think I might’ve ruled that out with the compression test.

What suggestions on what to do next? I suppose I could hire somebody with the rinda computer to do a scan, but would like to do my own tests first.

 

[jimmbo]

First I would pull the Raw Water Pump off and Check the Impeller. If any Blades are Damaged, Also Inspect the Pump Housing, the Thermostat and Housing, also the Exhaust Manifolds for any Restriction.
I suspect the Impeller is more than 5 yrs old and should be replaced anyway
You said there was Some Smoke and you found a "freely spinning knot". What is a Free spinning Knot?
When you did the Compression Test, did you also check for Spark?
Depending on how Hot the Engine/Exhaust Manifold got, water might now be getting into the Combustion Chamber

The Squeal may have been a Belt facing a very High Load from a Seized Power Steering Pump. Does that engine use One Serpentine Belt or several V Belts?

 

[racerone]

Found a loose NUT on wiring, I think.

 

[Lou C]

The wiring issue might be a result of the overheated exhaust manifold melting wires or connections. If the impeller was intact you should really consider inspecting the exhaust system; in salt water it is a regular maintenance item that may require replacement every 5-7 seasons. Sometimes you only have to replace the elbow but most times complete replacement is the best way to go. One side hot suggests that side is clogged or the passage in the thermostat housing that feeds it could be clogged. That should also be removed & rodded out (assuming standard raw water cooling).
Be aware that an overheat can damage head gaskets & put water in the oil. If in salt water sodium will show up before the oil gets milky. I had this exact thing happen to me about 11 years ago.
A cooling hose on the back of the engine to the PS cooler popped off & overheated the engine & filled the bilge with seawater (impeller in outdrive).
Pulled boat out and did a compression test which was fine. No water in cyls. Replaced scorched exhaust hoses, flappers & water tube gaskets in the outdrive. Ran fine for 2 more seasons but sodium showed up in an oil analysis. At the end of the 3rd season the head gaskets leaked salt water into 2 cyls, not enough to hydrolock it just enough to cause hard starting & missing.
Took it apart & replaced original heads (cracked from overheat) & put it back together with Fel/Pro marine gaskets. Installed new center riser exhaust to replace the old OMC V6 batwings. Still running fine 7 years later with good oil analysis results.
When you get it back up & running I’d do an oil analysis. If you find water & sodium in the oil (I’m assuming you’re in coastal Ca so salt water) I’d remove the cyl heads & get them checked by a machine shop & replace if cracked. Might be able to avoid more extensive engine work that way.

 

[kenny nunez]

The squeal was probably the alternator belt. I am going out on a limb but with the loose ground cable it caused maximum load on the alternator and voltage spikes on the negative side that could have cooked the electronic ignition if you have it. I am just guessing but this is the only thing I can think of.

 

[MalibuMike]

The squeal was probably the alternator belt. I am going out on a limb but with the loose ground cable it caused maximum load on the alternator and voltage spikes on the negative side that could have cooked the electronic ignition if you have it. I am just guessing but this is the only thing I can think of.

Thank you for that. I have a cap and rotor distributor cap the crab style. My coil looks like a small device with some fins. It look like an old fashion coral the shape of a small soda can. Are you saying I could’ve possibly cooked the coil or the cap and rotor?

I’m going to check for spark today. I would just pull a spark plug with a spark plug wire and ground it to the block and turn it over correct?

 

[kenny nunez]

I doubt the coil is bad. The only vulnerable part would be the solid state parts.

 

[ESGWheel]

To check for spark there are several methods including what you described. An easier method is to use the coil wire > pull it from the dist cap and hold it close to ground like the engine block while someone turns the key and cranks it. It will be a more visible and easier to detect (8 sparks per 2 revolutions vs one with a spark plug) + the sound.

Of course, this does not mean you are getting spark to the plug but I am on the same limb as Kenny and thus the mechanical portion of your dist. is fine as well as your coil. But you can always pull the cap and inspect if you get good spark from the coil.

And while checking the basics of compression, spark and fuel/air which is needed to make it run, Kenny is suggesting the sensitive electronics of your computer controlled engine have been compromised.

And I am going to go out on a branch from that limb> it sounds like you have a double whammy. The electrical problem AND some cooling issue. The odds of both happening at the same time are fantastic but never say never….

Good luck and keep posting your help needed and results. This is one for the record books.