Lube in Gimbal and U-Joint Bellow

UltraBoater

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Im in the process of replacing the bellows (the shift cable bellow is torn). See photo, Is this normal to have this much lube in the bellow?
 

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nola mike

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Nope. You need to pressure test the drive, likely input shaft seal defective. I can't tell if that milky crap is from the torn shift bellows or is water mixed with gear lube...shouldn't be lube or oil in the shift cavity though.
 

achris

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That's not a nice picture. Oil in the bellows is the front seal of the drive leaking. Wet oil means either water getting in the bellows mixing with the oil, replace the bellows. Or the water was already in the oil before it got to the bellows. Open up the drive and look at the oil.

Chris. ......
 

Rick Stephens

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First time I had that bad a mess in my bellows it wasn't gear lube, it was water mixed with the grease from the u-joints and gimbal bearing. Just to be certain that is gear lube take a swipe of it with a finger and smell. Gear lube stinks - grease and water doesn't have much smell at all.
 

nola mike

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Wet oil means either water getting in the bellows mixing with the oil, replace the bellows.
Chris. ......

Not the shift bellows, the drive shaft bellows. I can't tell from the pic if that cream is in the bellows, or if it's straight gear lube there. Straight lube would indicate that it's not a bellows leak. But then I don't know where the cream aft of that would come from...
 

achris

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Not the shift bellows, the drive shaft bellows. I can't tell from the pic if that cream is in the bellows, or if it's straight gear lube there. Straight lube would indicate that it's not a bellows leak. But then I don't know where the cream aft of that would come from...

Yeah, it's dribbled out from the Uni bellows. Have a look at the bottom of the Uni bellows locking ring, it's covered in it. If it were the shift bellows it wouldn't be dribbling out. .. that bellows is still closed when the drive is removed. Only open when the shift cable is removed. His shift bellows is torn. If that mess was in the shift bellows it would not appear where it is. Couldn't get there. Remember, the aft end of the shift cable bellows seals on the cable, not the bell housing.

Chris. ....
 

nola mike

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His shift bellows is torn. If that mess was in the shift bellows it would not appear where it is. Couldn't get there. Remember, the aft end of the shift cable bellows seals on the cable, not the bell housing.

Chris. ....
That was my point; the shift bellows tear is an unrelated problem. He's got at least 3 different issues. Shift bellows, input shaft seal, and wherever the water is coming from (ujoint bellows or failed seal somewhere else in the drive). Or maybe Rick Stephens suggestion, if that isn't gear lube in there.
 

achris

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That was my point; the shift bellows tear is an unrelated problem. He's got at least 3 different issues. Shift bellows, input shaft seal, and wherever the water is coming from (ujoint bellows or failed seal somewhere else in the drive). Or maybe Rick Stephens suggestion, if that isn't gear lube in there.

Ahhh... So we're agreeing. :D
 

UltraBoater

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The gear lube was changed one week ago, the color was similar to that of the lube in the bellow. It has been in the water for a 45 minute test run with the new lube. It appears the unit was serviced at some time prior due to the U-Joints not having grease fittings and tool markings inside the housing.
Should this thing be taken all the way apart to replace internal seals or just the ones available on the outer portions?
 

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Rick Stephens

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Reassemble the drive, drain it and pressure test. Since you are saying that was gear lube in the u-joint bellows then you at the least need to replace the input shaft seals and the u-joints. The u-joints are toast from running in water and lube. You will need to pressure test after replacing the input shaft seals as well, so might as well confirm the issue before doing the seal replacement. Pressure testing will also will tell you if any other seals are shot.
 

Rick Stephens

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I believe #18 is the input shaft seal. If you are going after seals, you must pressure test. If you pressure test, you are looking for any seal that is leaking. Fix em now.

Depending on model drive, the input shaft may require pressing the bearing apart and then back together, then setting the rolling torque on them when it is reassembled. You might post what drive you have, serial numbers, etc. That way you can get specific advice. It is always easier to pressure test and establish the scope of your repairs before buying parts. Last year I had a leaky input shaft seal on my Gen2 Alpha 1 drive. This required buying a torque gauge wrench that was capable of reading single digit inch pounds. As well it required a spanner wrench for the retainer nut. While I was in there I replaced the output shaft seals as well after completely disassembling the gear case. I had already done the seals on the lower the year before. Now we're good for another 20 years.
 

UltraBoater

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I will pressure test in the coming days.
The outdrive is a 1998 Alpha One Gen Two Serial # 0L508559
 

achris

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Yep. Requires rolling torque set up. I have a video done on that. Click the link at the bottom of my signature.
 

Bt Doctur

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UltraBoater

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With the drive off, Pressure test is showing no leaks- no soapy bubbles and pressure gauge is holding steady- I also wiggled the drive shaft with same result.
I do not currently have a rig to test vacuum but will be working on that this weekend.

My thoughts are:
- a leak when the seals are under load while in the water
- a leak at the fill/vent screw
- a leak at the gear lube reservoir inlet when the outdrive is on the boat.

Thoughts on testing these points?

I will add that there was no sign of an oil leak on the exterior of the drive or inside the bilge prior to removing the outdrive.
 
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nola mike

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Did we decide if that's gear lube in the bellows? If so, only place it can leak from is the input shaft seal. The pressure test is testing the drive "under load"; it doesn't see 15 psi normally.
 
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