Lower unit seal kit

[MiKeC.]

I have a 93 115, I noticed some oil coming out of one of the bolts that mount the lower unit. I am planing on draining the lower unit oil and see if Iv got water in it. Should I get the lower unit seal kit and replace all while i am there or do just replace the ones needed if they sell the gaskets individually?

Thanks

 

[OhWellcraft]

Re: Lower unit seal kit

Mike.
I know on mine 200 evin. they sell it as a kit which includes all needed to do the job. I was going to try to do it myself with my manual in hand but got scared because of the tools involved(that I don't have) and it is a pretty complicated setup in there. If you take the lower unit off I would for sure replace the waterpump while it is off that you can do yourself pretty easy for about $60.00 in parts and if you buy the kit instead of just the impellor it comes with "some" new o-rings, and a gasket or two. I would start by draining the lower first though to make sure it is infact leaking. If no evidence of water in there You should be okay. Another way to check is to remove the lower unit and drain. Then apply pressure to it via the vent hole opening. Only use about 10 - 12 psi then submerge in water and look for bubbles and replace seals needed. Some people use a bike pump with the end modified to screw into the vent(top) hole. Good luck with it and remember to replace the drain and vent screw washers with new ones when you do a final fill of lube. For a couple of dollars worth of parts they can sure cause a lot of problems if you try to reuse them.

 

[mikesea]

Re: Lower unit seal kit

Hey mike c,mikesea here,there is no way lower unit oil will be coming from your mounting bolts,could it possibly be dirty black looking exhust residue,draing and changing the oil is a good maint.idea though,be sure to check,maybe catch the first bit that comes out,any water will sink below the oil,coming first

 

[MiKeC.]

Re: Lower unit seal kit

So when I drain the lower unit oil, if no water comes, dont worry about changing the lower unit seals?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Lower unit seal kit

The mounting bolts are in no way related to the seals. Any residual oil coming from them would likely be unburned fuel/oil mix. Don't even need to drain the lower unit. Just crack the bottom drain screw and note the color of the oil. If it is light brown to amber/clear, you're good. If it is opaque/chocolate milk color, you've got water. If you get clear water, you've got problems...
- Scott

 

[MiKeC.]

Re: Lower unit seal kit

thanks, i will try tonight and post results.

 

[OhWellcraft]

Re: Lower unit seal kit

I think if you are going to crack the drain plug anyways to check you might as well go ahead and change it out. When was the last time it was changed? If it has been a while it's probably worth the $6.00 for a quart of new lube. I usually do it at the start of the season and then again at the end, I do live in Utah and the winters here can get nasty cold. I do it at the end of the season just so I KNOW there is no water in ther that is going to freeze and crack my LU case. As stated before I would reccomend new washers for both the drain and vent plugs they are only a few dollars and well worth the money. Make sure you get the right ones though some are more like an O-ring and some (john/evin) are more like nylon washers. Also tighten them down good and tight. I bought a pump that fits on the top of a quart bottle and threads into the drain hole it makes filling it a snap without all the squeezing and dribbling you get without one. I think it was like $7.00 or $8.00 at west marine but it has paid for itself the first time I used it. Good luck and I hope you don't find any water in there.

 

[MiKeC.]

Re: Lower unit seal kit

So I cracked the screw and a little bit of water and creamy looking oil came out. So I guess I am going to need the seal kit, and might as well do the water pump while Im there. How much oil does the lower unit usually take to fill up? Im I going to need any special tools for the job?

Thank for all the help.

 

[OhWellcraft]

Re: Lower unit seal kit

Mike, real sorry to hear about the water in there. I just went through the same situation on mine. It is older and a 200 but I would imagine it to be close to the same as yours maybe others could verify. Mine holds about 28 to 29 ozs. The pump that screws onto the quart bottle is very handy. There are special tools that are involved if you are going to do a complete re-seal. I know there is a puller that you need to remve the bearing carrier also a measuring tool for shift rod height(I think you can make your own with two yard sticks). I think there are a few parts that need a press to reinstall properly but I'm not 100% on that. Most (myself incl.) would recommend re fill with new lube, and new washers on both plugs and water test on lake. If water intrusion continues then proceed with LU removal pressure test with LU submerged in tank find bubbles and replace offending seals. They say the fill/vent plug washers are the number one cause for water intrusion so rule that out first. I am pretty handy with tools and not too much scares me but I opted to have a marine mechanic re seal mine. I just didn't know enough about them to try it on my own. I do have two manuals but didn't have the tools needed and didn't want to chance totally trashing my LU if I didn't get it just right. It cost me about $400.00 p&l which I didn't think was too bad. Just the re seal kit was $89.00. But if you decide to go it yourself make sure you have a good manual, and take your time. good luck

 

[MiKeC.]

Re: Lower unit seal kit

Thanks, going to replace those and test this weekend. Hopefully those are the ones that have gone bad.

 

[OhWellcraft]

Re: Lower unit seal kit

Mike,
I forgot to mention to make sure those drain and vent plugs are in good and tight. If they are the slotted type sometimes you can't get a real good grip on the screwdriver due to the position it is in, and possible gear lube on hands. It is possible (and what I do) to use a cresent wrench on the screwdriver close to the handle, to give it a bit of a snug once hand tight. BUT obviously don't go nuts with it I usually get it as hand tight as possible then just a bit more with the wrench on. If they are the allen type you can get the correct size that fits on a ratchet and do it that way. I believe the plugs are steel while the case is mag or alum. Definately don't want to strip them out so use good judgement if you use a wrench or ratchet. I have heard of people needing impact drivers to remove them so They can take a bit of torque. Drain with unit all the way down,screw pump hose into lower hole, pump until a bit comes out vent hole, insert vent plug, remove pump hose, have drain plug handy, quickly insert drain plug, tighten both as per above. Have some cardboard under skeg as there is always some that leaks out when inserting drain plug.