lower unit oil & air pressure

[fisheymikey]

Force 125 1988

Well its that time of year to change the oil in the lower unit. The color of the oil is a very light coffee..

I checked the pressure with one of my vacum pump.
It shows around 8lbs when i go 10 it does not hold more. Im i supposed to have the oil removed or with oil inside. Should i check the seals? What say you..

Thanks gentlemen...

Mike

 

[Frank Acampora]

It should be able to hold 10 PSI. Drain the oil first. Then pressurize to 10 PSI and hold underwater. The air bubbles will tell you which seal is leaking.

If you have oil in it, you won't be able to see, for example, a prop shaft leak.

 

[fisheymikey]

well i finally did a proper pressure check..

and yes i have a leak. the part is the water pump seal. i would like to change all seals now that i have it a part.

the seal kit is part #FK1063-2 does this kit contain all seals or do i need the water pump kit? just not sure my first time doing a seal change any advice would be greatly appreciated.

thanks

 

[fisheymikey]

No Title

well i managed to remove the seals

after reviewing each item cross referencing them with the kits looks like i have all i need but i need both seal kit waterpump kit.

to get to gear housing seals how do i remove the main shaft? how is it lock in.

thanks

 

[Frank Acampora]

In the first photo, you remove the four 1/2 inch head bolts. Then fabricate a puller out of a piece of heavy steel or aluminum. Drill a center hole large enough to fit over the prop nut threads and two smaller holes to match the two holes in the spool. Thread a couple of lengths of 1/4 X 20 all thread into the two holes and use nuts on top to pull the spool out. There will be a prop shaft seal and two O ring seals on the spool. Replace the four small O rings under the four spool mounting bolt heads. coat both large O rings of the spool with a liberal amount of anti-seize to prevent corrosion welding and making it easier to remove next time.

In the second photo: There is no need to remove the drive shaft. The drive shaft seal and shift rod seal is mounted on the lower water pump plate. The shift rod seal goes in rubber side down and seal side up. Use a length of pipe and an appropriately sized socket to drive the seal home. Just drive it until there is a slight smooth drag on the shift rod. It does not need to be killer tight and if it leaks you can always tap it in a bit more.

Strange coincidence: Not an hour ago I was down in the garage replacing O rings and prop shaft seals on a lower unit spool. Unfortunately, I inadvertently pulled out too many drawers and my tool chest tipped over spilling entire contents on the floor.

 

[fisheymikey]

No Title

thanks Frank!

Success here is the clutch dog do they look good shape?
​thanks

 

[jerryjerry05]

Looks good.

 

[fisheymikey]

Thaks jerry

 

[fisheymikey]

No Title

i took apart my clutch dog form the shaft because i found there was some sticking in the pin. hope that help someone i used a small file and made it smooth where the pin engages the inside of the shaft. now it goes in much better with oil before it would lock. im sure that was part of my stiff shifting.

here are some pics of the jack$ss that i paid 1000$ to redo my lower unit when i first came into knowing IBOATS.. man i love this forum.

im guessing he put a kind of gasket maker because he did not get the right orings. unless you think i need the do the same. i did find inside the housing there was some pitting but more were the spool is not where the Orings go. guess when i pressure test ill know foresure.

suggestions are welcomed